Roman

I see some interesting designs for people cooling their brake rotors ie. randomly pointing a pipe into the wheel well from a randomly selected part of the front of the car. A vented disc works as a centrifugal fan so air flows from the centre outwards. Often I see people trying to blow air back in from the inside. Much better is when there's a cover plate that pressurises the inner side of the vents. Which is unfortunate on my case as the "inner" part of the vent (which you'd want to blow the air into) faces my wheel so there's no easy way to run a pipe to it. Time to run a vaccum line around the wheel well area to my datalogger and see what's going on. Hopefully running some ducting will make my pads last a bit longer, currently works out to about $100 on brake pads per trackday. The guys with the big heavy cars with lots of HP must have some horrific expenses on consumables!

Sucks about the piston. What's the plan from here? I'm guessing it would be more economical to buy another 1J than rebuild. But that doesnt sound very Sheepers-like

In other news, that work to remake the rear bumper is frigging amazing! Very talented.

Front wheel drives are ideal for a big wing on the back. Setup the car so that it has oversteer tendencies at low speed, and then the wing makes it more neutral when you're going fast by holding the rear down.

With my current setup, when the deadtimes were hugely wrong at least. when I tried adding fuel to the outer injectors below 5000rpm it just wasnt liking it at all. I also was running ~80psi for a while but my fuel pump creaked and moaned about it. So I've dropped to 60psi, vaccum referenced so under low load it drops to 50psi or whatever to give the fuel pump a bit of a break haha. I'll maybe have another go at adding the fuel earlier in the revs once I get another wideband sorted out. Stupid Innovate junk has just chewed through its 3rd sensor. I'm thinking dropping to a lower CC for the outer injectors, and with a multi nozzle head instead of single pintle might be beneficial. I'm keen to switch over to the "modelled" fuel equation which means it the fuel needs a retune from scratch pretty much. But it gives me some extra information which will be useful for tuning, it allows the ECU to output "fuel economy" both instantaneous and "trip" as a value. Rather than me having to work out the maths for it. Once I've done that I'll experiment some more with different AFRs for best economy, and also VVTI settings for best economy. On a recent trip I got 6.7l per 100km which I thought was pretty awesome. According to documentation if you have the VVTI advancing "about half way" at medium load it works like an internal EGR pump by letting exhaust gas back in, which reduces pumping losses and improves economy. But it'll be a lot easier to figure these things out when I've got a graph directly in the ECU showing economy.

Note sure. I really need to get to the dyno and do some runs with and without the staged injection to see what difference it makes. My guesstimate is that the motor revs a bit more freely past 7000rpm but it's hard to say for sure. If I go to the dyno and it doesnt help I'll just go back to previous.

Interesting about the VVTI, I guess yeah it would be a lot more precise than hydraulic with PWM.

Thanks, Yes it uses "Injector effective pulsewidth" combined with RPM, some known variables about the injectors from my bench testing, and then the vehicle speed. If I use the "modelled fuel" setup instead of "traditional" inside the link, then it gives you a fuel economy figure natively in the ECU. I'll probably give it ago on modelled fuel at some stage.

Haha, crackup! Even understeer on lift off, wow. It's weird that they would dumb down the AW11 towards the end, and replace it with the early model SW20 which had the worst reputation for oversteer out of the lot. I found that tires made a huuuuuuggggeeee difference on my SW20 towards reducing understeer.

Ahhh awesome! Thanks. It's been helpful for figuring out where parts go when putting a car back together haha.

What is it about the handling at the moment, that you are looking to change by adding a different swaybar? I find it helpful to try think about handling in each of the different scenarios, individually. If someone says "Does your car understeer or oversteer" its hard to answer if you're thinking about everything together. My car is something like this: If your car understeers there might be 5 different ways you can adjust suspension to decrease it. But out of the 5 one of those options best helps your problem area while minimally disrupting the others which are currently good. Sometimes its hard to think about in the heat of the moment, but I find looking back at in car videos from trackdays helps quantify things. I wonder if Toyodiy provides any clues about the swaybar thing. Although that's pretty much done and dusted now that pics dont load

Oh true, never heard about the electronic VVTI before. Probably not any more complicated to setup with an ECU though as I'd imagine it still runs via PWM. Interested to hear more about the 2GR rwd gearbox mish mash. Since they bolt up to an MR2 box for 3SGE, I would have assumed they have no issue bolting to an Altezza 6 speed either.

Were the main spring rates changed at any point between versions? If the later model ones had slightly stiffer springs it may have negated the need for a rear swaybar. Or perhaps they just removed it to make the car more understeery because the general public are shit at driving mid engined cars.

Pretty sure they're near same weight as a 3SGE as well, since they're all alloy. Just need to find that cross over point where they're not too expensive, but then not all old and fucked either haha.

Factory Altezza exhausts are heat wrapped. They're bukakk'd with chopped strand sort of stuff and then clamped between two stainless steel shells that surround the 2-1 section. Like top set in this pic

My long 4-2 stainless primaries are fully wrapped, have been for ages and no sign of cracking / corrosion / etc etc. And they've had some pretty hefty high rpm beat downs and every other driving scenario. On a previous engine I had stainless extractors wrapped as well, the only evidence of the wrap being there was when you took it off and it looked brand new underneath the wrap and shit everywhere else.

People talk a big game, up to the point where they get asked to finger Daves exhaust port.

Yep I know the clip you're talking about. The problem with the way they conducted the test though, as mentioned in the youtube comments. Is that they used an IR heat gun rather than a surface temp probe. Unless you enter compensation values, an infrared heat gun will measure something shiny and something dull at different temperatures. (Emissivity changes) So it massively biased towards showing that the painted pipes performed exceptionally.

In the defense of ceramic stuff. My understanding is that ceramic coating only works as a reflective barrier. So if its between the hot exhaust gas and the metal, it does something useful. But once your exhaust pipe is hot, ceramic doesnt stop it from radiating any heat that's already in the metal, to the outside world. Example - Porsche 944 turbo had ceramic coated exhaust ports but it would be useless coating the outside of the exhaust manifold in the same stuff. It doesnt do the same job as heat wrap. For conductive heat (like engine block heat soaking the intake manifold via conduction) then placing a high R value material between the two items works really well (8mm thick phenolic intake manifold spacer works awesomely, 20 micron ceramic would be useless) But for radiative heat, it's a different story and ceramics can earn their keep. Example... Gold foil in the engine bay of a McLaren F1 keeps engine heat away from carbon fibre panels by reflecting it back. Some things like loose fitting aluminium foil or space blankets work rediculously well, because they're reflective, create an air gap, and have very few points of conduction for the surface area they cover. Some examples of heat management in my car, either factory or by me: Radiant: -Alternator has reflective foil on the rear of it to protect from radiant heat of extractors. -Extractors have heat wrap to limit radiant heat into engine bay. -Fuel rail has thick coating of ceramic paint to prevent radiative heat from the hot engine absorbing into the rail. -Intake manifold has thick coating of ceramic paint to reduce absorbtion of radiant heat from engine bay. -The factory extractors have a 3 layer reflective heat shield made from stainless and ceramics Conductive: -Intake manifold has a rubber spacer to prevent conductive heat soak from engine. -Fuel rail has plastic washers under the bolts, and plastic upstands to prevent conductive heat into the fuel rail from the engine. -Alternator has plastic washers to the bracket to limit conductive heat from the engine.

2GR would be friggen awesome in a Carina! Finally Toyota made a decent V6. Rather than the junk 3VZ etc that people swap into MR2s. They're still pretty spendy though at last check, especially since you need to factor in an ECU that can run 4x VVTI.

People might be like "It's R value is better than heat wrap" But R value is based on insulative properties of both materials both being an inch thick for sake of comparison. if the wrap has 1/10th the R value but is 1000x thicker then it's a winner! As mentioned the lava rock heat wrap from Ali is magical stuff. Which makes it easy for you FlyingBrick as you've already own a roll of it thats sitting in a cupboard in my garage haha. I might be down in hamilton some time in next few weeks.

Where's a good place to buy brake pads, near Penrose or West Auckland? Went to Race Brakes last time but I think some people said there were cheaper places to get the same thing. So where else to go? Looking for some Ferodo DS2200 or similar for nissan 4 pots. Sterling only had standard road pads.

What are your goals for the car? Sounds like you're after a drift car mostly.

GRAPH ALL THE THINGS

Okay enough of that, back to graphs. I had Threeontree come help me the other night, he drove the car while I tootled with ignition settings. Managed to advance the timing by up to 20 degrees in some areas, on the part of the map for cruising along. We used cruise control to hold the engine at a particular speed so it stayed in the centre of a column on the ignition map. So I had this big stack of data collated from driving at all different speeds, and I have accurate injector info from my test bench thing. So Excel'd together some maths to try see which speed is most economical to drive my car at: (The lower the trend line, the more economical) So it looks as though peak economy is ~73ish kph? And not too bad 10kph either way. Most cars are most economical at about 85kph, but I guess this has 80s box aero features and does ~3400rpm @ 100kph thanks to the diff ratio. It's probably the pumping losses from spinning the engine so high at 100kph that keeps the optimal speed that much lower than normal. Aint changing diff ratios though! Coupe Life!