Roman

Definitely dont change the air intake, trust me. A motor of that size in a car that heavy, just not much you can do in the way of low end power. Clean the airflow meter (carefully) and change the filters, maybe spark plugs. Wouldnt do much more than that. I found my beams motor to be quite torquey all things considered, but that was in a much lighter car I guess.

P.S. You may know me otherwise as the drunken 'cant take him anywhere' guy.

Mint car! Everything looks so new and shiny. Sucks scratching paint putting things back together though

So I've just about finished the exhaust, but I've run out of bends, Just wondering though, do most people here go over, or under the diff? I'm thinking with the larger diameter pipe there might not be enough clearance from the top of the diff to the exhaust pipe, and the chassis. I'm going 'over' but will see how it goes, I guess I can just hack it off at that point and reroute it underneath if it sucks that way.

I'd take the cam cover off, and see if there's been oil splashing around up there. I mean it could be that it *says* it's got no oil pressure, when it's been building pressure fine. If not, next thing I'd check would be that the oil pickup is not blocked or sitting on the bottom of the oilpan or something, can happen if you get a dent in your pan. Or given that it looks like you've got a custom sump, yeah check the clearances to the oil pickup to bottom of the pan, if the pan bent a little when you sat it down, or something like that...

Just read your thread, +1, Stick with it! Seems so close, and will be a worthy car when done, you will not regret finishing it!

Car looks awesome. Regarding green stickers etc for running stretched tires.... Even if technically it's a legal modification to have tires under the guards and no mention of wheels sticking out, it's illegal to run a tire width on a rim width that it's not intended for. So its not possible to legally have your wheels sticking out further than the tread anyway, hence why the rules regarding this only mention the tires and not the wheels. I'm not criticising or anything, just FYI, that's technically the law regarding the situation.

With a lot of trial and error, I made it hahaha. It's an aluminium plate that bolts onto the throttles before the trumpets, then the box over the top is made from fibreglass. I made that by making the shape out of expanding spray foam stuff, fibreglassing over the top and then pulling the foam out afterwards.

Aaaaaand it goes! Really need to make an exhaust for it though, sounds alright in the vid but like a bag of crap IRL!

No update in over a year, and still not going yet. Well I finished stripping the shell, got it all primered and yada yada. LSD fitted, big brakes fitted, hand brake cables sorted, wiring done, new coolant lines, new rear water outlet, new gearbox crossmember, lots of fiddly bits like that. General laziness has also been a contributing factor for why it's taken so long. Aaahh well pending some replacement coilpacks turning up tomorrow for my 3 dud ones, And me not having forgotten to tighten up something important, this sucker should fire up before the weekend! The devil has been in the detail, sorting out all of the fiddly bits like new brake lines, wiring, coolant lines, blah blah. Assuming the motor runs well and doesnt blow up, I've just gotta assemble the car all back together, make sure there's no more holes to drill anywhere or whatever, make sure wheels fit nicely under gaurds, make sure everyhing is sweet... Then pull it all apart again and paint it properly, then put it all together again, then go for wof/reg/cert. So ETA for completion, TBA

Put bigger ones on the right hand side, and tell people it's a nascar.

Gen 3 starts at 1994, so not all 90's ones have 8 bolt fly's. However he's using a beams so just get an aftermarket one, as you said. It's only the gen 1 motor that has the 6 bolt fly, (which they stopped in 1988-1989?) all 90s 3SG(T)Es have the 8 bolt, first SW20s and ST185s came out in 1989 with the gen 2 motors.

Late 80s gen 1 3S's had the 6 bolt flywheel, (or was it 8 bolt but smaller PCD? Cant remember) But point being that anything from early 90s onwards 3S's use the same flywheel pattern, as all the cranks are the same. Altezza flywheels are different to the FWD 3S ones, the face of the flywheel is further away from the end of the crank. Altezza flywheels also have the spigot bearing in the middle, where as FWD ones dont. My reccomendation is definitely aftermarket light flywheel specifically made for altezza. Standard altezza ones are something stupid like 18kg, 'light' ones are in the 6kg region. For the clutch, I think the input shaft of the gearbox is different between FWD boxes and the 6 speed, so again, get one specifically for an altezza. Personally I think it's a good idea to keep the clutch as the weakest link, have a bit of slip in there rather than breaking gearboxes or diffs. So just standard one for me, last clutch blew up on account of being too grippy, in a situation where a 'normal' clutch would have slipped, and survived. But if you're building a car for drifting or burnouts, I guess you'd want something a little more hardy.

And this is why hilux LSDs fail so hard.

Seriously, get some bunnings warehouse general purpose paint stripper. It is the best shit ever, took my car back to bare metal right before my eyes, and left it perfectly smooth underneath. And oddly enough, automotive paint stripper that I had used previously made my panels go rusty looking, and smeared all the paint into goo. Bunnings warehouse paint stripper made my paint almost explode off, and was super easy to clean up, and obviously wasnt water based, or whatever. It's one of those "Christ I cant believe I wasted so much time up to this point with a wire brush" kind of things Assuming Fiat paint is anything like Toyota paint, that is.

I skate out west Auckland pretty much every day that it's not raining. Mostly Tepai mucking around in the snake run, sometimes marlborough park, and the odd lynnfield bowl mission if I havent been mugged in a while. CBF going anywhere else usually, too old and creaky for doing much of much. A cane around the bowland a bigspin flip or two here and there and I'm happy.

If you're gonna ditch the VVTI (and therefore most of your powerband) dont bother with a beams motor. May as well just use the gen 3, much easier to run an aftermarket ECU with. The beams motor has a table just like fuel or ignition timing that it references to, it changes the cam angles based on rpms and AFM signal.... so it's always making the best possible torque, even at part or light throttle. There's no point adding quads (presumably for a power gain) and then throwing away a shite load of power in doing so.

Everyone on the internet seems to say that it makes your manifold rust etc... But when I had heat wrap start to fall off mine and I pulled it off, it looked mint underneath, and rusty near the flange where there was never any wrap. Cant say I noticed a power difference though, but that's not why I'd fit it, personally. (or HPC)

Nothing wrong with the gen 3 motor IMO. If you had a gen 2, I'd say "ditch it" but gen 3 aint so bad, fixed a lot of the gen 2 problems. Agreed, pick one up for $1200 if you keep an eye out. Agreed. my beams car was heaps of fun, was just over a tonne. A 2 litre NA in a 1350-1400KG car, ugh, why. (well, so people can pillage them for motors etc I guess )

After having wrapped extractors... I'd never do it again, I'd sooner HPC coat, or make a heat shield from metal, or both.

Two breather lines, 1 in and 1 out! The air gets sucked in with one pipe, from before throttle body/vaccum. Then into crank case, then out of crank case (via other line) and then to vaccum/intake manifold to be burnt by the engine. There's a 1 way valve on the one that needs to go to vaccum, (put catch can in/on this one) and the other one just needs filtered air. Or, dont put a filter on it at all if you're rugged. I'm not sure how much air flows through, but if you're using an AFM it might be wise to have it plumbed in I guess. P.S. What does the vaccum pump setup do?

P.S. I was reading a document called "Flow analasys and control in a sub sonic inlet" As you do. *cough* Anyway, it had this to say about bellmouth design: and this was also interesting:

Well most engines seem to use intake lengths to give a mid range boost, perhaps where there would have been a slump otherwise. Tuning resonance to occur around peak hp/torque will probably make it more peaky, but you could probably tune for an rpm band away from this, to give it a broader powerband. Either way, most people who make the intake runner length a lot shorter than factory end up losing a big chunk of the powerband. (In modernish NA applications anyway)

I've been wondering about the affects of having VVTI on the intake side, and resonance tuning. For example where the pressure wave might hit 'too early' you could advance the cam timing so it's letting air in, at that point. And vice versa for a 'late' pulse. And then the opposite, for when you're in a resonance 'trough'. Although there might be less overall gain from that then there would by having the cam in the 'right' place to suit that RPM etc anyway.

If I can get the overall runner length to be about 320mm: "For 3rd harmonic, RPM range is from 7007 to 8008 with a pulse strength of 7 percent For 4th harmonic, RPM range is from 5463 to 6109 with a pulse strength of 4 percent " So reversion pulse FTW, so long as I can get that sort of overall runner length, if not longer. (wont be able to fit much longer than that though)