Roman

The sump, exhaust manifold, intake manifold, etc can all swap from one engine to the other. I've heard that ports are bigger on the M/T Altezza engine, but I've got an intake manifold and gasket from one, and port matches almost exactly to the redtop engine. The benefits of the M/T Altezza engine are the gruntier cams and slightly larger valves, and higher compression ratio. (11.5:1 instead of 11:1) Titanium valves are a downside though, apparently a fair few cases of them mashing themselves and making engines go asplode. Think its on the TODA website that they reccomend reverting to steel valves for race use for them engines.

Yeah I converted a front wheel drive (Well, MR2 one) beams engine to a RWD configuration for mine. As stupid as it sounds, its actually a hell of a lot easier that way for a conversion. The FWD beams motors dont have the returnless fuel line, just normal... Doesnt have eletronic throttle body and pedal position sensor and blah blah, just normal. Runs a normal idle speed controller, too, so can run quads with an airbox and airflow meter, wired in with a 20V TPS and run the standard idle speed controller on it too on standard ECU. Wiring it up is a bit more simple too. Altezza motors are a mish for sure!

Aaahh right. Maybe making a spacer to the head would fix it then, that tapers down a bit more for that extra bit. I've been made redundant by small companies shutting completely down that I've been working at, twice in the last financial year. Car project is as good as dead while I get my finances back on track. No I dont have photos sorry... This was about... 5 years ago? I sketched/measured up a quick comparison of manifolds ages ago though http://www.mr2.com/forums/beams-owners- ... rison.html Yeah honda engine rules. Still aint easy though... fitting exhaust down the other side is a mish by comparison. Shifter position ends up way gay compared to Altezza box too, and need to wire in dash from S2k too I think.

One option, that I've seen done for a beams motor in a starlet. Get a FWD manifold, chop off the runners at the flange, then weld it back on the other way around. Makes for a low mount single throttle setup that faces the right way. Next best cost effective option would be getting some flanges cut and some pipes welded between. Better port matching this way too... Cast copy of TRD manifold I got sucks in terms of port matching, is 1-2mm larger all the way round, than the diameter of the ports at the point where it mates to the head. Hope the port matching on your new ones is better Glenn! I've gone back to single throttle because there doesnt seem much point in using a manifold that's likely going to flow worse than the standard one because its got a big step in it. Wouldnt be so bad if the ports were smaller and could machine them out, but dunno how I can fix it with the manifold being too bigger a diameter for the head. Although how much difference it would actually make I dont know, some people have made good power with Glenns manifolds, or maybe I just got unlucky and got a bad one.

"I.e my car is 2.0 litre so at 6000rpm is it right that it would be consuming 12000 litres per minute?" Half that... Because it's a 4 stroke remember! Which makes the calcs easy, 5000rpm = 5000litres per minute. *However* That is assuming that your engine can consume air with 100% efficiency currently, which is unlikely. Probably 70% or 80% of that is a safe bet for actual current air consumption in the engine, maybe less if it's something of a particularly oldschool sort of design.

Yeah, for Glenn's car. Had heaps of time off while unemployed at the time, but then got real busy all of the sudden, and he ended up selling his car eventually, so never got past the design stage. I'm still keen to see something get machined that I've designed in solidworks! Just perhaps something a little less ambitious for starters. I've got the same flowbench type software here as per some of the other pics in this thread, perhaps I should give my manifold a whizz through, and see how the air actually gets to the runners. Stupid program crashes heaps though, I think my computer is too old and creaky haha.

There's a slot that runs down the entire length between them, so that air is fed uniformly in along the whole side of the main plenum. Throttle body gets attached to the top part, front of bottom part is just blocked off.

Love your work KPR! Here's a pic of the HKS dual plenum type manifold: And some pics of a similar manifold that I never finished designing http://www.gpforums.co.nz/thread/370679/?s= and the airbox that I made, but had to scrap in the end because pipes were the wrong size

MS3 definitely looks mint. 6x6 table for VVTI doesnt seem like much, but it's a lot more than having fixed cams! And if it blends as a ratio between those tables then maybe its alright. I've got a copy of the VVTI advance/retard maps from the powerfc here, pretty much more air in the combustion chamber = less advance. Obviously the shape of the map would be a hell of a lot different if with a MAP sensor though I guess.

Totally freaken sweet! I saw a Toyota Century up near Cape Reinga last year... a much later model one, was all "WTF? There's a century in NZ?" Didnt know there were actually any here.

The whole issue with turbochargers is the transient throttle response on account of having to spool up the turbo, every time you put your foot on the gas again. Which is where a supercharger really shines. Which is irrelevant on a diesel, where it's blowing the full amount of exhaust gas out al of the time, as there obviously isnt even a throttle body. So the primary advantage that a supercharger has, is completely invalidated on a diesel... You're just lumped with the downsides, like higher pumping losses and less power for more work by the engine. It'll be different, but sometimes there's a reason for that

I've seen an 80s Toyota that had extra factory gusseting around the top of the strut towers... cant for the life of me remember what it is. MAybe MA61 or MZ10 or something?

I guess an advantage of boring out blacktop throttle bodies, is that they already have the larger diameter trumpets that bolt on to them, that you can get off the shelf bits for. Although if the bolt spacing was the same on silvertop, could do the same thing and use blacktop trumpets I guess. I've also been giving some thought to boring out my blacktop throttle bodies to a larger dia to suit the cross sectional area of the ports, but, its a lot of pissing around! One idea that I've had, is to model the cross sectional area of the port in cad, and draw in the throttle bodies etc as per how they are now. Then taking 'slices' of the model at say 10mm intervals and using cad to calculate the cross sectional area, then comparing this to see if the cross sectional area is increasing or decreasing or whatever down the length. Then modifying the model in cad to give a proportional reduction in cross sectional area down the length. then printing out the cross sections at 1:1 scale, and then using them as the basis by which to modify the ports, like you know that 10mm or 20mm from the base of the throttle, you know that it needs to be XYZ shape in order to have the right cross sectional area. I think this is effectively what experienced engine builders do when porting heads and what not... But in a more oldschool sort of way, measuring with calipers and blah blah. Rather most home port jobs, where people seem to think its a job for the eyeometer and a dremel. As if machining a mil out of everything is going to make their ports flow better, as opposed to actually analysing the shape and size of the port and coming up with a plan for what actually needs doing.

It's pretty easy to disable the motor in the throttle body and make it completely cable controlled. Saves having to muck around with pedal position sensors and what not. Although not sure if the ECU will throw a tanty that way. Any plans on sussing the returnless fuel line setup? You'll need an adjustable FPR if you run a fuel return, cos the returnless setup runs a rather high fuel pressure, cant just fit a normal Toyota FPR on there. My engine barely clears the bonnet in a Carina engine bay and is still way close to the ground... Carina engine bay is friggen huge compared to Starlet! This will be an awesome fun car when it's done!

Hope you dont have a hotwire airflow meter Mikuni! haha. Why dont you find some injectors with half the CC rating, have one inboard, one outboard, and the ECU triggering the pair of them? Even at the best of times, avoiding fogging issues is a bitch apparently. Also I'm fairly sure that the spray pattern for outboard injectors is way different to normal ones... Needs to spray in a single narrow beam, rather than like a shower head? Also keep in mind that when at full throttle full rpms, most factory injectors end up running at like 80-90% duty cycle. To spray in one cylinder only for the duration of the intake event would require massive cc rating injectors with a very low duty cycle. What are the bike ones like Spencer?

Still reckon you're better off just keeping an eagle eye out for a factory corona/celica/carina F series live axle. So much less mucking around.

So how does a blacktop 20V work well with MAP sensor, if it's difficult to get any sort of accurate signal from? How/where/why do they source the MAP signal, I'm guessing they've got all of the runners linked together.

Most pickups seem to be offset in one direction from where they attach to the block. So even if you just had a swivel section that allowed it to rotate 360 degrees on a horizontal plane, would pick up oil better than having it in a stationary position. But yeah, some sort of braided hose or something that wouldnt cave in I guess. Havent given it too much thought yet.

Just a thought. Why do people modify sumps anyway? Because the G forces move the oil away from the oil pickup. Why hasnt anyone tried just making a pickup that swivels or is flexible or something, that just moves with the G forces too? That way it will just always go where the oil is. Surely easier than trying to keep a sloshing liquid in one particular place. Also with trapdoors. I remember someone telling me that a certain type of porsche or something has factory hinged flaps on the sump.. but instead of a metal trapdoor, it was a flap of silicon that was riveted at the top, that was slightly larger than the hole that it surrounded. Oil pushing on it one way forced it against the wall, blocking flow... oil coming the other way just made it bend out of the way, and let the oil in. Simple solution that works well with no hinges or anything required.

Aaahh okay sweet. Up and running is the important thing! More power can come later. Do you know what kind of car the new motor was from?

/mind asplode You put your gen 3 motor back in? Good work on getting it running again!

Aahh stink one! Might sound silly, but there wasnt a throttle imbalance on the far one or something?

Aahh so you're talking about the clearance from the big end of the rod, to the side of the block? I'm guessing you're not talking about the clearance of the big end bearing shell to the crank if it's 1.5mm If that was the case for me, I'd shave another mm or two off the side of the block, just in the areas where it's looking close. What kind of engine is it, 4 cyl? If it's something really oldschool with less than 5 main bearings for the crank then yeah it might be a concern having the middle rods wobble a little closer to the edge of the block hahaha. If it's got a main bearing each side of each rod, I dont see how it could really flex all that much I guess? Unless the block is flimsy or something.

*VZFE engines are AWFUL. If you're gonna go for a Toyota V6, 1MZFE or 2GRFE if you're a high roller Will be cool seeing some more 2GRFEs rolling through when they become more affordable, and seeing what they're capable of when tweaked a bit.

Bah! Why does everyone else know where to find them, except me haha. Although I need another carina/toyota like I need another hole in my head. Nice car, how's the rust? Nice score to get an IRS one, didnt know they came with an IRS drum setup.