Roman

Supercharged C63 with ~600hp or so. Was awesome. It's a huge friggen heavy car though so it's still less than 2 seconds a lap quicker than the 86 was. I've got some vids of it having a go on the skid pad, traction control only lets the car do about a 1/4 turn before weeing in its cereal. The Alfa needs another muffler for sure haha.

Ahhh this reminds me, a few snippets of your car from last time in here, excuse the retardomax video colours.

This, it's frigging tall. My sump bangs on the ground even with 4wd spec ride height Mine's out of the car at the moment though if you want to have a geez. +1 to Rookie's suggestion of MX5 motor and box. But make sure the chassis isnt going to dissolve around it first haha.

What's the factory LSD in those boxes though, viscous right? Would drive a lot differently to an aggressively preloaded clutch type.

A swaybar adds half of its spring rate to one side and takes away half of its spring rate from the other side. So factory cars with soft springs like to have swaybars because it adds roll resistance while still having a lot of travel etc. So lets say you had a standard car with a rear spring rate of say 3kgmm and a swaybar with a rate of 2kgmm. When the car goes over a bump on both sides the effective spring rate is 3kgmm But when the car starts to roll the spring rate will be 4kgmm one side and 2kgmm the other side. But if you fit harder springs, say 6kgmm coil springs You get 5kgmm one side and 7kgmm the other side with swaybar. or 6kgmm springs with no swaybar you get 6kgmm and 6kgmm. So stiff springs alone and you already have 1.5x more roll resistance than the factory soft springs + swaybar. So a rear swaybar sometimes doesnt work well with stiffer rear springs, because you're already getting enough (or sometimes too much) roll resistance from the coil springs alone. Or, it gets to the point where the rear swaybar spring rate is so low compared to the coil spring rate that it's doing nothing anyway, and the cars handling wouldnt benefit by a stiffer rear bar anyway. (unless you want to go backwards into a pole) But TL;DR: If your car understeers too much, fit a rear swaybar. But if it doesnt, dont fret about it.

Sweet jebus this thing looks like a lot of work!

Ahh okay... I wonder if I've still got mine kicking around somewhere.

Yep that's what mine looked like too.

Yep but the clutch plate on the factory dual mass flywheel doesnt have springs in the middle, as they are in the flywheel instead. So if I tell the shop I'm not using dual mass they'll give me a sprung centre.

Okay thanks, what is the actual clutch plate that you use, obviously there isnt a Toyota one available because its normally dual mass. 3SGTE clutch plate or something? As I think mine obliterated itself because it was a cheap aftermarket unit. But not sure what's actually better to use.

4th of September, heading from Cairns down to Brisbane in a campervan over the span of a week. Should be fun!

I'm imagining it'll be fairly rowdy compared to before... With no small diameter pipes there's not much blocking doort noises either I dont think. When I've driven the car with just bare throttle body its friggen noisy.

Parts cutting was a success for the first half, all the bits fit up nicely with a tape test. Now just waiting on getting it tigged together, then figure out some way to hold it up when it's in the car.

This is super cool man! Look forward to seeing how this progresses.

Looks good Ed, look forward to seeing it in person some time.

Aahhh yep my bad, indeed it is. There is still another electric pump and stop valve in the engine bay though, as I described - not sure what it looks like though.

If wanting to divert the coolant to one thing or the other then there's an electric valve in the heater circuit for that as well. (Prius)

The same way that he would if there were no water lines connected (oil only)

I cant see why it wouldnt work, annnnnddddddd A prius (There's one at Zebra, at last check) has good parts for this idea. They need to keep the heater going even when the motor is off, in the engine bay there's a thermos tank for hot coolant, and a 12v electric water pump designed to pump the heater circuit. So you could use the pump from that, and then any old water based heater core, and lines in between.

Need to go to G series to have any chance of finding ratios close to that. 3.7 is the nearest ratio I know of in F series and it's friggen hens teeth.

After making 100s of CAD drawings and cardboard mockups After making Dozens of CAD drawings and cardboard mockups After making about 6 CAD drawings and cardboard mockups, I've got the final shapes for everything. The finalised design shows about 0.1kpa pressure drop across the whole thing when stationary. If moving forward at 100kph it gets positive pressure right to the bellmouth when drawing 170 grams/sec. Notbad.jpg Time will tell if I'll ever see positive pressure at the map sensor though, not holding my breath on that one. I should have some lasercut bits turning up for part of it this week. Then when the car's going again, that's the exciting part! (Posting meaningless graphs about pressure readings while nodding authoritively)

Thanks, will do.

Okay thanks, might check out some polyurethane sheet.

Hey guys, Looking for a sheet of flexible about 30cm x 30cm that can stretch and flex, and wont disintegrate upon contact with oil or fuel. Not direct or continuous contact, just dont want it to dissolve in an engine bay if it gets splashed with something. Any suggestions? Wetsuit material springs to mind as the stretchiness etc that I'd be wanting, but I dont think neoprene is particularly resilient to petroleum based products.

Hmmmm flipping back through some notes it looks as though the reccomended settings from Glenn say it should max out at about 28 degrees instead of 22. So maybe I was just too chicken to advance it further without some form of knock monitoring. It's a work in progress haha. 38 degrees advance still seems like heaps though!