Roman

Okay soooooo, I got reminded of a program I heard about ages ago, but I only had OBD2 stuff to play with at the time. This program called Virtual Dyno: http://www.virtualdyno.net/ Basically you turn on datalogging on your ECU, and do a run on a flat piece of road/track. (or 3 or 5, pick the result closest to average) Then export the datalog file into a CSV file (or you can use megasquirt log files directly) Thennnnn you input some data about your car - gear ratios, weight, tire size, etc. From this information, it judges the rate of accelleration of your car to give an estimate of how much power it makes. (So obviously testing somewhere flat and straight is important - a drag strip is perfect!) I previously had the same motor as what's in my car dynoed with factory ECU - 127kw @ 6800rpm. (I've lost the dyno chart though unfortunately, thanks to Imageshack being bastards) So what does virtual dyno show, on this different but largely the same engine from some random road track tune I was doing earlier? A peak power result within 1kw, within 200rpm of the dyno results. (Which is perhaps coincidental at best as the two cars had different drivetrain layouts and so on) However it looks to be close enough in order to be useful in terms of optimising ignition and cam timing. It should also be able to show whether the staged injection earns its keep. So long as you stay strict with your methodology at least. (And dont lose your license in the name of science) I cant wait to have a go with this when my car is back together - Just some test runs initially to see how repeatable the results are. Has anyone else used this program before? Or will consider using it for some tests? Super keen to see some OS results!

Just been having a quick read back through your thread... I remember you previously talking about virtual dyno, but I think it was back when I was looking at OBD2 stuff not link data. Sweeeeeeet jebus I cant wait to get my car going again and do some nerding with virtual dyno! I've just loaded some previous log files, pretty awesome!

I like this comment, because it could be about any Dave in attendance.

Ooooohhhh ahhhhh We can go out for an evening of dinner, and breaking our cars xoxoxo EDIT: Wait, what? EDIT2: I meant exactly what I said.

Go to toyodiy.com and look up the wheel bearing part numbers for you car. Then cross search that against other Toyota models. I did this to find some 4x114 Townace hubs that worked perfectly for what I was after. However I'm pretty sure there are 5x114 vans that had the same wheel bearings etc.

I'm always stoked when I have a valid reason to hit my car with a hammer.

Just a thought, I had these exact symptoms when I had an incorrect knock sensor fitted, it would keep thinking there was no knock so smash in heaps of advance. It's possible that the car has a faulty knock sensor, you wont necessarily get any error codes from it. When I was driving with a blown knock sensor it would take ages to show a fault. As in, 10s of hours of driving. Here's a copy paste about it, keep in mind this is exactly same engine as what's in the Caldina: It's in a prick of a place to get to though, haha. But I guess you could bench test the knock sensor or something. Regarding the VVTI it's normal that under idle / low load it's not really advancing the cam anyway. So I wouldnt expect problems from VVTI alone causing the motor to get super hot / lean under cruising conditions.

I reckon MAF related issue is first suspect. Does it have an aftermarket air intake? pod filter etc? Try some MAF cleaner spray if you havent. VVTI not working wouldnt make it run lean, because if it wasnt working and less air was coming in then the MAF would give a lower reading and still be correct. I would imagine it would cause engine knocking rather than running lean. Any air leak after the MAF will make it run like a sack of crap, and second major suspect is aftermarket air intake. If there's an OBD2 port on the car I can tell you how to make a generic OBD2 reader work with it... This will give you heaps more info about what the engine thinks is going on. As well as some error codes which dont show up as the flashable error codes.

Supercharged C63 with ~600hp or so. Was awesome. It's a huge friggen heavy car though so it's still less than 2 seconds a lap quicker than the 86 was. I've got some vids of it having a go on the skid pad, traction control only lets the car do about a 1/4 turn before weeing in its cereal. The Alfa needs another muffler for sure haha.

Ahhh this reminds me, a few snippets of your car from last time in here, excuse the retardomax video colours.

This, it's frigging tall. My sump bangs on the ground even with 4wd spec ride height Mine's out of the car at the moment though if you want to have a geez. +1 to Rookie's suggestion of MX5 motor and box. But make sure the chassis isnt going to dissolve around it first haha.

What's the factory LSD in those boxes though, viscous right? Would drive a lot differently to an aggressively preloaded clutch type.

A swaybar adds half of its spring rate to one side and takes away half of its spring rate from the other side. So factory cars with soft springs like to have swaybars because it adds roll resistance while still having a lot of travel etc. So lets say you had a standard car with a rear spring rate of say 3kgmm and a swaybar with a rate of 2kgmm. When the car goes over a bump on both sides the effective spring rate is 3kgmm But when the car starts to roll the spring rate will be 4kgmm one side and 2kgmm the other side. But if you fit harder springs, say 6kgmm coil springs You get 5kgmm one side and 7kgmm the other side with swaybar. or 6kgmm springs with no swaybar you get 6kgmm and 6kgmm. So stiff springs alone and you already have 1.5x more roll resistance than the factory soft springs + swaybar. So a rear swaybar sometimes doesnt work well with stiffer rear springs, because you're already getting enough (or sometimes too much) roll resistance from the coil springs alone. Or, it gets to the point where the rear swaybar spring rate is so low compared to the coil spring rate that it's doing nothing anyway, and the cars handling wouldnt benefit by a stiffer rear bar anyway. (unless you want to go backwards into a pole) But TL;DR: If your car understeers too much, fit a rear swaybar. But if it doesnt, dont fret about it.

Sweet jebus this thing looks like a lot of work!

Ahh okay... I wonder if I've still got mine kicking around somewhere.

Yep that's what mine looked like too.

Yep but the clutch plate on the factory dual mass flywheel doesnt have springs in the middle, as they are in the flywheel instead. So if I tell the shop I'm not using dual mass they'll give me a sprung centre.

Okay thanks, what is the actual clutch plate that you use, obviously there isnt a Toyota one available because its normally dual mass. 3SGTE clutch plate or something? As I think mine obliterated itself because it was a cheap aftermarket unit. But not sure what's actually better to use.

4th of September, heading from Cairns down to Brisbane in a campervan over the span of a week. Should be fun!

I'm imagining it'll be fairly rowdy compared to before... With no small diameter pipes there's not much blocking doort noises either I dont think. When I've driven the car with just bare throttle body its friggen noisy.

Parts cutting was a success for the first half, all the bits fit up nicely with a tape test. Now just waiting on getting it tigged together, then figure out some way to hold it up when it's in the car.

This is super cool man! Look forward to seeing how this progresses.

Looks good Ed, look forward to seeing it in person some time.

Aahhh yep my bad, indeed it is. There is still another electric pump and stop valve in the engine bay though, as I described - not sure what it looks like though.

If wanting to divert the coolant to one thing or the other then there's an electric valve in the heater circuit for that as well. (Prius)