Unclejake

Alternatively you have put the brake like into the wrong hole on the wheel cylinder

I'm chucking the weedeater on the back of Phil's truck on Sunday afternoon so he can take it to the tip.

Yeah/nah, this is probably too small for all youse, but here goes anyway: The plastic fuel line on my 26cc two stroke Ryobi weedwhacker went all soggy and melted when I was away on holiday over new year. I replaced the bit I could see and the motor went sweet last weekend, but it's now seeping petrol from somewhere and wouldn't start after six or seven pulls. I am not a patient man - so I went straight out and bought a 30cc Victa because Steeb told me Victas were da bomb (Steeb knows what's up and stuff) Henceforth: If anyone wants this 26cc Ryobi two stroke line trimmer (with a fuel leak) you can have it for free (and some spare new fuel line too), but you will need to collect it from Island Bay

I expect Bigmatt is onto it. Your float bowl setting is too high or your float valve is kaput (or you have too much fuel pressure). The other possibility is a lack of vacuum on one of the cylinders fed by the rear 'throat'. First check your float setting, and next check compressions.

^ That diagram is only for left hand drive electricity. Are you crazy?

Possibly, but without hearing it try to start it's also possible that you have the ignition set too far advanced. EDIT: Oh, two weeks old. I'm certain you've sorted it by now! Duble edit: What eke_zetec said

That engine lifter has seen the inside of more OS sheds than CDL's mum. Help yourself to it. Just PM me your name, phone number, and when you are likely to return it Kicker (so I know who has it etc.).

The earlier crossflow starters were not powerful enough for a high compression motor, but I dunno about the Pinto ones... but I'm also a bit unclear from your description as to if your motor will turn over or not. I understand that it won't start, but: Does the motor turn over by hand? Does the motor turn over on the starter if the plugs are out? If you've replaced the ring gear then I guess the gearbox has been off. On the earlier combinations the gearbox input shafts could foul the crank and prevent the engine turning... but again - I don't know much about the OHC set-ups There was also an option of a pre-engaged starter at one point.

Well, you (I) learn something new everyday!

I think the pulley would put the belt somewhere around the 75mm (Edit - obviously closer to 60mm thanks to Escorto) mark. Is that too far out? AFAIK they only come in one length

Figure you have this sorted now, but you could use mine too

Good thinking, but that scenario would destory the engine pretty fast as the crank thrust bearings would get pwnt /sorry for spamming your thred Yoed

I totally haven't read the thread, but the first couple of sentences sounded like engine pre-detonation or an input shaft to pilot bearing mis-match Forgive me if both of those things have already been covered after the second line. I'll have a better read later - but you would want to be certain that the input shaft is snug into the crank or else you'll bugger the box pronto. It's possible that the shaft is too short and it isn't locating into the pilot bearing at all

I've done these before by triming back the lead, drilling a new hole in the cap and re-soldering. That only works if they are copper leads though. The silicone ones probably can't be soldered but I do recall just splaying out the silicone over the metal cap and that working..

I raced one of those motors in a Mk1 Cortina and we got so used to it that the head gasket could be changed and the valve lash re-adjusted in 29 minutes. Drive in - drive out. The best think your brother could do is to buy a workshop manual, take his time, lay all the parts out in the order they belong.... and take the head and gasket to an engine re-conditioner once they are off. Do not clean anything before the re-conditioner has had a look. You won't don't know it actually has a blown head-gasket until it's off. It could be worse. The have a habit of cracking heads - but they are usually repairable P.S. Those 2731 blocks were a good motor, not very common, but good (if it's an original 1500 Mk2)

Nice. Tell your Frost MS welder that he's a giant soft cock as you leave. As he's kind of big you may want to wait until you're in the car. P.S. Isn't it awesome when a professional service is less hassle and less money than doing it yourself on the cheap.

I got 10mm leads custom made by TopGun in Austrailia. Five leads was ~ $140 delivered from memory. I did it all through BNT. Too easy. It took about ten days and was about five years ago. 10mm leads are worth the extra money just for the bling factor IMHO. If this is for Jute then nothing is too much trouble.

Perhaps meet at somewhere for hipsters and off-mature people alike: Little Beer Quarter Edward Street from 6pm, Thursday 13th June http://littlebeerquarter.co.nz/ Who is keen? Not happening here, so look at other bits of the thread.

That's normally an alternator problem mate (rectifier/regulator thingy). Cheap and easy to sort. I haven't looked at the video, but alternator would be the first thing I'd check/change. It won't be doing your stereo etc. any good either

I can give you some cash labouring work if you need it you little bitch. It's outdoors stuff at my place. There's a tiny bit of digging, some steel placing and then boxing for a concrete pour Text me up if you're keen. I'll try to think of something more too. EDIT: Yeah. There is some automotive stuff you can do at my shed as well. I reckon there's two or three days work available in total. Not great, but will help with all your child support payments

I'd roll unboosted and push harder on the pedal.That's how my race car was set up and it was probably a good thing in the wet. Mass is the enemy of a race car so if you can lose 2-4kgs of booster then yay.

Awww shucks Thanks team. It has been a long time coming but some progress is finally being made this month. I spent a few hours today going through the boxes and boxes of door parts I have. It's hard to remember where everything is supposed to go, but my old mistakes are back to bite me so there is a lot of work to do. For a start I'll need to remove all the paint from the roof and start again there. There is a bog shrink back and several sipderous rust areas in the roof. There was also a single bit of bog down by a wheel arch that I didn't completely remove in 2005. It was a little bit bigger than a pin head at the time, but that too has blown out and become a visible lump. I need to find some replacement alloy trims for just underneath the windows. I went through three entire car lots of that trim in 2006, but each time the anodizers touched them they destroyed the whole lot. I need to go on a mission to find some NOS, but I think I tried previously and there were none worldwide. Dunno. I'll try again. I fixed the flickering fuel gauge on Thursday. That made me happy............. but my lord there is a lot of work left to get these doors sorted. The sheet metal is no big deal. It's the internal door panels, hinged door pockets, window regulators and various weather seals that will take ages. Most of the arm-rests I have are bio-degrading. They've one sticky and mushy. Plastics have come a long way in the last 50 years..... but I think I've got four useable ones out of 16 Thanks again for all the kind words. OS is full of such wonderful people.

At risk of sounding like a giant cock: no polish, wax, or cutting compound has been on that paint ^ since 2006. The only thing that's happened is that it was washed it and dried it off with a towel. The photo was taken with a cell-phone last night. I learned how to weld on this actual car and did the body and paint myself. It was my first attempt at welding related panel work, but K-Trips, the Pinga, and another chap named Mathers deserve a big dollop of credit for helping too. Those guys did bloody heaps. xxxOOOxxx If you are prepared to take your time, put in lots of effort, and can afford to purchase good materials and the right tools - then anyone can do this. Anyone. Probably even KY or Dodgysam.

Rear ride height sorted. The front still needs to come down a smidge to match, but this will be no weed scraper as I'm not into that. Lots of scrubbing with Jif has made the whitewalls white again. They are a bit yellow in this photo but it doesn't really show. You can probably see the difference in paint between the temporary doors and rear guard. The doors a done in quality 2k, but the guard is base coat under clearcoat which is more work and expense, but I think it's worth it. The guard is also straighter than the doors.

If the engine runs OK under load then you may just have a balance issue. It's possible that the rear carb float setting is slightly too high (or the valve is sticky), the front carb butterflys are openining slightly sooner. and perhaps there is a slight loss of compression on either #3 or #4. I'd also be tempted to clamp off that vacuum booster for a bit to see what happens, and re-set the idle mixtures. It's an easy job and makes a big difference to off idle throttle response