CUL8R

Headed back, loaded up the car. Raring to go for opening night tomorrow night!

3 coats later it looked like this; After a full day piecing it back together, and prior James/Horndog kindly lent the services of his works guillotine. I then seam sealed the deck, along with blind stainless rivets both the ramps and deck... (Blaine kindly helped after a day of blasting for him)

Lay the first coat of 2k acrylic white on Friday night..

Got a wof, made sure everything was up to scratch before blasting it.. Blaine from Fast Blast kindly Sandblasted the chassis for me, and then together we Primed the chassis, then called it a night

TBH I've found it a quite common problem Not being funny, but the Yanks sometimes do a Drivers side spring, and passengers spring with slightly different lengths/tensions. I've re-bushed a entire 60's Impala, springs, balljoints and had the exact same problem, made it better than when it came in, but had to put spring packers to level it properly unless you want to pay to have the springs either stretched or compressed to match. The easiest and most reliable way is to Fit a Urethane Spring Packer under whichever side spring to bring it back up. This will most likely be on some ratio as you're on Double a arms - ie 10mm packer might equate to 20mm at the tyre to guard.

Discuss; //oldschool.co.nz/index.php?/topic/48778-chriss-1987-mkii-golf-eurocup-racer-car-with-added-moss/

Yea, Rob from Whitley tune drew it up from a flange file, and I gave him all the port spacings, and sizings did a couple of trial 3d mock ups for carb angle/clearances and then he cast it. In theory he could go and make another exactly the same if someone ask as all the hard work has been done!

So, with the help of a friend, finished off the throttlecable for the manifold. Decided I'd make a log manifold for the vacuum ports off the carbs, used seam sealer on some factory plastic pipe and capped the end- hoping for the advance and maybe boosted brakes but who knows how well it will work.. Whitleytune Manifold fitted perfectly, looks very smart indeed - I've had it blasted after being machined. Back of the manifold after being surface ground flat. Running the original intank lift pump. After the first fire up it was leaking out the carbs, and had a puddle under the floor. I left it for the night, came back in the morning to find I'd left the barb fitting loose from where I'd put the inline filter & hose, and the carbs were most likely leaking from sitting from a sticky needle/float valves. Need to balance them properly, however for 5 min of running they are running beautifully - better than the CIS unit ever did in my ownership.. Cannot thank Rob enough for his work and persistence in making the manifold, and friend Gary for his help modifying the original cable to work. Can even shut the bonnet without it hitting anything! Discuss; //oldschool.co.nz/index.php?/topic/48778-chriss-1987-mkii-golf-eurocup-racer-car-with-added-moss/

Didn't like the straight 90 deg at the end of the tie downs, support braces, so 45'd them. Flapped back the welds for a tidy finish. Sloped back the rear braces As you can see by the photo's, the guards have inch box section welded along them - two reasons strength for the guards for when people inevitably stand/sit on them, and when loading cars so the guards cannot be directly smacked. I also weld a stay underneath in the middle of them for more strength What you cant see here, is the ramps are welded up, and mounted underneath, slide in/out (forgot to take photos) - although they may not seem like it, there is almost as much work in the ramps themselves as there is the plain chassis itself

So, after a couple of years of borrowing mum's trailer for my racing, having to ask to borrow it or retrieve and fix/maintain it after being lent to randoms, I'd decided to build my own, quite similar in design to what I've used, but with a few lessons learnt. Originally was going to Hot dip Galv the trailer, but strong CBF factor for drilling holes and warping the guards, tipping it over soon put me off. Have decided it will be Sandblasted, epoxy primed then painted in 2k. This took me roughly 2 hours to have tacked together; Added Draw bar, flipped it over for storage, couple of braces for drawbar & hydraulic couping mount Offset the winch, rather than have it pull from the centre where its a pain to stand and winch - and no cars ever have the tow point dead in the centre really.. Doubler plates for the safety chains - pain in the ass welding outside with the slightest breeze 3 Ton springs installed Made the axles - braked on the front - such a ball ache calculating them with offset, clearance, dowels for the springs.

Streetstocks are allowed locked or LSD diffs now However, what they actually did was run 3 beads of weld around the end of the axle tube beside the diff head, the heat and weight of the head would effectively pull the head down - loading the spider gears & giving the cars a small amount of negative camber. I know a old boy that fills his historic speedway cars diff with White metal or lead I cannot recall which, for an event, then once hes done he melts it back out to flat tow it home....

^ Do tell, curious as to why they would be banned lol

As confirmed by the other two thats a 100E Gearbox. Having pulled 3 from cars last week, and one of which was "jammed" in gear, unbolt it - and like UJ says the selector will be jammed between the two, you'll need to gently tap it back into the groove. - I put that particular shifter into a Electrolysis rust removal process and then soaked it in Wurth Rost off & Ultra 2040. Have had it shifting smooth as ever since.. If your gearbox is genuinely toast, Im sure I could manage to get a complete box for you (minus the shifters as I need them lol)

Isuzu 4xe1 twincam - more power than a 4age

Surely that must've come from Shane ? Towing Vauxhalls around, and parked outside a Radiator shop?

That makes it a whole heap brighter down the side of the house Pete!

If you talk to Rob Whitley (Whitley Tune) he can then use your 3d Prints to make a casting.. Also, I happen to have the same carbs on my Chevette, they have that weird air correction or something tube up top

We can do Cobra springs for around $160 + freight to you? Normal retail is $220 - even that is cheaper than $300 odd someone has quoted you. Sorry no personal experience on the Coilover welding though

Enjoying the thoroughness of the work here, as mentioned by others puts many to shame including me!

Did he not sort that? I set him up with one from the Prattleys - when they wanted a parts wagon I knew about, I made it a proviso that he got the front window off them.. Arron or Luke

Alternatively, go see Wayne Patrick @ Patrick Autotrimmers - he's a top bloke and a Vauxhall Fiend!

You've gotta be happy with that outcome, they look outstanding!

From memory there is some new Short Shocks for the front when he was planning on lowering also Shouldn't take you much at all to have it running, put the motor back in and you'll be away!

Bart, you can come try the last pair to suit skinnier rotors. (or machine the calipers to suit)

How about being less jewish Bart, come for a visit and buy a pair or two.. @ Kicker what do you mean by s12+8? I have some Skyline 4 pots also. Check your pm's Cletus