sholdowa

Could be just the available current... the flasher unit draws about 10A

havent read through the whole thread, so it might have been suggested already... but could it be something unrelated, like a brake dragging??

Solder *is* an alloy... mainly of lead and tin.

sorry just seen this. you still stuck??

the problem with soldering joints is that the end of the solder becomes a point of weakness, and excessive vibration can cause failure. For some reason, this doesn't happen with crimped joints. I expect the heat shrink stuff'll help too.

if you're still running a ford starter, then the small bosch ones off sierras / scorpios are high power and work much better on modded engines.

anyone know of a dfv going spare??? sure that'll fit

some garage you've got there Dan! Still got these if you're interested... viewtopic.php?f=15&t=19199

you might want to check the Wheatie'll still be open.

Hmmm... it's only got 3 mains, so revving it can be an expensive hobby. As you're suggesting I expect.

Yes they tried the Essex in a Mk.1. Engine's too heavy and it wouldn't go round corners. At all.

Even the standard Mk.2 RS2000's have that cut in half. Don't worry about that.

Oy I want that back!!! I remember these cylinders costing 8 quid back in the UK... Girlings cheapest! Any idea where to get the bits to convert that one from cable to hydraulic clutch??

check the earths to the body and the engine, make sure they're clean. Apart from that, the alt may need a rebuild...

keep the V6. Too much power and the plastic pig will fall apart!

They're a straight swap. Just need a new crush washer...

yes the diffs will swap. no probllem. The best thing to do with the shocks (without a lot of welding) is to use the bra that's on the late mk.1's to make the shocks more vertical. But, tbh, after driving a Mk2 rs not that long ago, the feel of a live back axle even with the straighter shocks - isn't worth the effort!

TVR had the battery in the passenger footwell. Apparently, any caravan battery will do.

I'd've said fuel filter first off, but when you said it's the same with the afm disconnected...

Personally I wouldn't go for the princess 4 pots - they're just too heavy. The standard 2 pots on vented discs are plenty good enough imo. For the back end either go for 9 inch drums, or there are plenty of disc alternatives - saab 900, xr3 fronts, etc. I used Chrysler 180's but there aren't that many about these days. You might need to re-balance front/rear if you go that route...

I tried to get him to quote me for mani/system, but he just wouldn't. If you can get a mk.1 system and pinto manifold ( the smaller one ) quoted for as well, see if we can split the postage???

Trash the choke... it doesn't get cold enough here

This and the fact that the loom - especially the insulation - is 40+ years old is why I've decided to make a new one from scratch. I'm also upgrading the ignition on my pinto to all electronic - megajolt and no distributor at all - at the same time. This'll be a major voyage of discovery for me as well, so I expect to be regretting my decision on a regular basis.

No you've missed the point. When running, the alternator develops about 13.8V, and the ballast resistor drops this to run a coil designed for an 8V feed. When starting, the 200+Amp load on the battery drops the voltage that the battery can deliver to about 8V, so shorting the ballast resistor provides the correct voltage to the coil to deliver a decent spark to start then engine while cranking. If you run a non-ballasted feed to an 8V coil, then the HT voltage will be way too high, and the arc generated between the points will soon burn them out.

Being somewhat strapped for cash, I bought a box of bits that will allegedly make up a 32/36 weber when a service kit is added. It's going to end up on a 1660 kent, running standard valves/head and a bcf2 cam. It's intended for weekend, rather than daily use in a mk.1 escort sport. However, there are a few things, due to duplicate sets of parts, and I'm unsure which ones to use. Can you help? First off, I've got 2 pairs of aux venturis, and one pair has a larger hole than the other. Which should I use? Book says 3.5mm which'll be the smaller ones... Primaries: I've got a 155 and a few 140's Air correctors: Only 170's Idle: 45's 50 55 I've got a couple of emulsion tubes - F22 - as well, but they look more like they're off a sidedraught... can anyone tell me how to get them out as I don't want to force anything? Am I going to get away without spending any more? Thanks for any help / pointers Steve PS. Can you stick the bodies in a dishwasher, or is the detergent too strong?