cubastreet

it's the balance or clean width knob that does that. it's a completely different function and works whether you have the pulse on or off. the pulse function doesn't affect cleaning, just the amperage.

this is the bit you have mixed up. say you set the peak current to 100a and the base current to 40%. on dc it pulses between 100a and 40a. on ac it pulses between 100a ac and 40a ac, not 100A+ and 40a-. the diagram doesn't show -ve voltage anywhere, just the high and low current.

^^ nope. base current is the low pulse setting, it works on ac or dc. pulse width and frequency are also ac or dc, that diagram never goes negative. clean width is the % time spent in the negative (electrode positive irl) when you're on ac.

the peak current is your main heat control, the clean area width is your ac balance. turn it to the left for more penetration and right for more cleaning. of those four switches on the right, the bottom left one turns on and off the pulse. this makes the power pulse hi-lo-hi-lo... the base current sets the low power setting, it's usually a percentage of the peak current. the duty cycle is the percentage of time on the high setting and the frequency is how fast it happens. if you want to play with that turn the duty cycle and base current to about 40% and the frequency to about 1s, it might help to give your welding a bit of rhythm. the arc force is for stick welding set the post had to about 1 sec per 10a current. the down slope helps avoid craters when you finish the weld

+1 on the Miller digital elite helmet, they're really good and have a 3 year warranty. set the ac balance towards the penetrating end of the scale unless your alloy is old and cruddy. more cleaning means more heat going into the torch which can overheat it pretty quick. I find a foot pedal real handy for ali. it conducts heat so fast that when you start the weld you need a lot of amps to get the pool going but toward the end of the weld the metal is getting saturated and without a pedal you have to keep welding faster and faster. being able to back off makes it that much easier.

park house on two rails and call it a carriage

portacoms are only allowed without consent if they're used on site to support the construction of a building etc which has been granted consent. you can't just throw a portacom/container on a bit of land, dig a longdrop and live in the box.

portacoms are only allowed without consent if they're used on site to support the construction of a building etc which has been granted consent. you can't just throw a portacom/container on a bit of land, dig a longdrop and live in the box.

surfcaster fishing rods to prop up the power lines and slide it in underneath? I feel ya pain, guess that's why project managers charge so much.... I share yard space with WE, haven't seen them at all lately so I guess they're mad busy. or all on holiday.

drill 6 stud is the only easy way. or get some 15" Peugeot 504 rims.

advantage of being so small is that in winter you can just swap the led/cfl light bulbs out for tungsten ones and that'll be all the heating you'll need.

It's true that most of the strength is in the edges, but the walls are important too. If you take it to the extreme and take all the walls out, you could still stack them up high with a lot of weight, but as soon as you get any sideways loading such as in an earthquake the steel will buckle.

sweeeeeeeeeeeet

Can't see it being a problem but I don't do wofs (lingling) you could wire auxiliary switches in parallel to the original ones, then you could operate them from either switch. You might need to get uncle jake to drill some holes in your car to reduce the weight again tho.

giz a shout if you need parts, I service and restore espresso machines and roasters etc. I normally have things like safety valves, airlock valves, headseals, pumps etc in stock and get parts from Italy/Spain fairly regular too.

Spotted this too late. Giz txt next time I'll do anything for a cold ale.

cheers guys I'll just do the lot. I really cbf going in and doing it again if/when it starts leaking.

kk was right first time - pedal will be softer with less travel at the clutch end.

I've just bought a Mitsi that has a SOHC 4G15 in it. 150K on the original cambelt. While I'm in there is there anything else I need to change? Tensioner? Water pump? I'm really cheap and it's a mirage, so I don't want to throw money at it, but likewise I want it to keep going.

Make sure everything's made for R134A refrigerant rather than the old R12 to avoid issues. I think that's roughly mid 90s on.

Yeah the new Bonnies are pretty sweet too

don't think the vespa is cause for concern there

what about OS 2 wheelers, are they welcome?

The one I checked out at the scrappie was too wide unfortunately, so you'd have to notch the frame rails.

if you've got compressed air it's pretty good for cooling in between spots too. what motor you putting in it?