l1ttle_d3vil

yeah as I said, the engine loom gets pulled out but this plug is completely separate to it so always gets left. the other one which is forgotten is the alternator plug...? did you get that too? i've got the 14p ecu plug here if you need it. cheers -matt

yeah that plug is not for the ecu, only stuff you need off it to run the engine is cold start switch and the tvis power from memory. rest is just junk. but you do need the 3rd plug for the ecu to run, as there is a relay/ign connection and a batt connection for the ecu memory. see if you can get the plug off the car, otherwise I'll have a look in the shed for one. if that fails, just go to a wreckers yard and check out any similar year toyotas - they generally have similar plugs. just asked as I'm going to auckland this weekend and could give you some pointers on what to wire up as i've done a few of these now.

whats your "3rd plug" look like? same as the pic below? did you remove the setup yourself? are you sure you got ALL the plugs for the ecu? the 3rd plug is often missed as the first two are for the engine sensors etc but the 3rd is connected to the dash wiring so gets forgotten about. it needs to be cut off the dash wiring, then the appropriate wires connected up once in your car. where are you located? auckland?

im going to rotorua this weekend if its any help...

not sure if its the same for all - i assume they can't be too different - but for a 4age you just need 4 connections to make the alternator charge: 12v+ batt (on alternator plug) 12v+ ign (on alternator plug) warning light (on alternator plug) and 12v+ batt which goes to a separate terminal on the top of the alternator. the 12v batt / 12v ign / warning light can all be found on the plug for the external regulator. pull this plug off, test the wires to see which is which and use those wires to wire up your new alternator, then remove all the old regulator etc. and try not to blow shit up

PMd

99% sure it would be externally regd, unless its been modified. here is the wiring off a 3K, should be all the same if yours is externally regd. I have these plugs and the regulator if you need them. the bolt terminal will also be a 12v+ BATT connection, won't charge without it. IF it is internally regulated, it should only be 3 wires + the bolt terminal which will be batt still. other 3 wires would be 12v+ batt, 12v+ ign and warning light.

where are you located? i just pulled this wiring out of my car for an engine conversion as im running an internally regd alternator. also have the old external reg if you don't have it, plugs etc. Could probably track what most of the wiring does. From memory though all 3 wires on the actual alternator plug went to the reg...

so what save current file and reload into ecu after reset? no, because if thats the problem the current map will already be corrupt. thats why I copied my tune to my PC before I started rewiring my car, just incase something bad happened if you don't have a copy saved on your PC and the ecu map is corrupt the only way to fix it is a retune. but in saying that, when I had mine tuned the guy saved the map to his PC at various stages. not sure if he keeps them for future reference or anything, but might be worth checking if your tuner still has it on file.

specs + howto here: http://forums.toyspeed.org.nz/viewtopic.php?t=29042 you just undo the two screws on the side and you can twist it back and forth, and check with your multimeter until you get the correct resistances etc. but it may be stuffed altogether so if you can't get it right, or the resistances are already correct it'd be worth trying another one. its weird that it is only happening when warm though... check your spark plugs, i once had a crack in the side of mine (the white part of it) and it wasn't firing properly, would miss and stutter until 4500rpm then run perfectly...

its like you're either ON THROTTLE or OFF THROTTLE, no happy medium? fuxd TPS, or its not set correctly. the other stuttering common on 4ages is only when under full throttle, when the coil gets damp. clears up once the coil is dry again. generally happens after driving for a while in heavy rain or something, depending on where your coil is mounted.

most guys are quite picky about what you share vacuum lines with, as in the external should be a dedicated line as it is quite critical, similar to BOV. just pick the two least important things

i thought i was the only one with my wheels... then i started seeing them on allsorts of drag cars. oh well, alot of people like them

the turbo should spin freely by hand any time I guess, when mines idling it doesn't spin - but I could spin it by hand if i want. but if i snap the throttle really quickly and let the revs drop back, it will start spinning.

thirded. i know of a guy who travels whk to wellington every so often too...

probably more likely to overheat then though because the water will be going around too fast without "soaking" the heat in, end up with hot spots in the engine. sounds like it doesn't really matter though

cheers for that. do you know of anyone local with a parts hilux by any chance, ln106 or ln130? need a set of calipers of one of them...

random question; got some pics of your front calipers? trying to ID what model hilux my calipers are off, as I can't get seal kits otherwise

you should be able to fill it easy, just get a suction thingy with a flexi hose on the end. i managed to fill a w55 box in a ke25 tunnel no probs, and they're a tight fit

yeah you can get them cut and joined. thats what I had done to mine to suit ae85 diff - T50 box. any engineer should be able to do it. they just chuck it in the lathe and cut them both, then join them up again. it is a fairly straight forward job and commonly done. otherwise as othe rpeople have said, if its already the right length and the uni's are the same size - just pull them apart and swap them around so you got the matching spline.

ae86 diff wont bolt straight in, you need to change the mounts as with a hilux diff. ae86 diff won't need shortening aslong as you run fwd offset mags, same goes for the early model hilux diffs. so no differences there, only difference between them is the price and strength: ae86 diffs sell for around $700 with an open diff head, if you want a diff with an LSD head you'll be paying over $1k probably unless you hunt around for ages. you can pick hilux diffs up for about $200 with open diff heads, and another $200 will get you an LSD unit to bolt in. a 4agte will blow a ae86 diff head to pieces relatively easy, a hilux diff will last forever. so for half the price and twice the strength, i'd save up and get a hilux diff...you wont get anything that'll handle a 4agte and bolt in for under $500.

supposed to be 88kw factory...dont know if thats at the flywheel or at the wheels though...

yes, turboing a bluetop is possible. im fairly sure all bluetops are the same compression though. 4agzes are either 8.0 (older models) or 8.9 (later models) compression ratios. if you are wanting a decent reliable engine, go with a 4agze. otherwise if you're just wanting to have a bit of fun with low boost, stick with stock everything. just get a manifold made up, stick a turbo on, plumb up a stock 4agze intercooler then plumb your oil lines up and you should be sweet. there are all sorts of other little things which crop up when doing this though too (all of which i am not totally sure on). I do know that map sensored 4ages (like bluetops) dont like boost, so you need to put a 1 way valve somewhere along the line or something like that. if you want to go for it, it is definitely possible. but i wouldn't count on it lasting long i was going to go down the same track as you but in the end decided theres no way I would be able to "just run it on low boost", eventually i would want to put more in so am running with a 4agze block instead for reliability.

i paid $400 for engine, gearbox and diff... i didnt have to take a WOF sheet in, he just failed me on the stuff he wasnt happy with and I fixed it up and went back. some of the WOF-related items he failed me on was excess play in a wheel bearing, windscreen wipers not working properly, couple of bolts missing on break lines (original lines). the rest of it was mod-related. he didnt charge me for the re-check, and actually met up with me on a sunday to put the plate on (i was out of town).

where did you get that price from? try $450...price has just gone up i think...used to be $400. and thats anywhere, not just chch.