Raizer

Yeah there external pump, the challenge can be making enough room to pull the cam out the front of the vehicle.

Spent 4 seconds copying the link you posted and uploading to imgur

Try Imgur. It is an OS problem as I just tried your photo links on an old phpBB forum, a SMF forum and an AMASS forum and they worked perfectly on all. But at the end of the day Photobucket sucks crusty ass. Just playing around with your image links I've been informed that I've won billions of dollars, there's sexy singles waiting for me and it turns out the Lindbergh baby is my grandfather Imgur is easier to use than PB and works well, iforce is super simple and just straight out works.

First step is check your belt travel, use a vivid and mark a line across the face of the variatior and go for a ride, if the markers all gone the belt is getting full travel and you can likely go a little lighter. If your left with any marker near the edge the belt isn't going right out, slightly heavier rollers or a new belt should sort it. Once you get into big pipes with narrow powerbands weight becomes even more critical to get right.

You can't just chuck 3.5s in place of heavy stock rollers and expect improvments, you probably moved your shift point 5000rpm above your powerband FFS. Going heavier isn't going to gain you fuck all speed, but it will lower your acceleration. Have you actually checked to see if your belt is getting full travel to the outer edge of the variatior face? It's all about fine tuning slight differences in roller weight until you get your variatior shifting right at the peak of the powerband with the belt travelling right out, not making massive changes expecting miracles.

Yeah should be an improvement, will raise the shift point a fair few RPMs. The way to do it is buy an assortment of cheap rollers in various weights (eBay ftw) and try different combos until you get it how you want it, then once you find what works swap the cheap ones out for a decent set. You can mix 2 different weights too, I'm running 3X 3.5 and 3X 3.75 weights which has put my shift point at 10,750rpm/need to go slightly heavier as my peak power is at about 10,250rpm.

Shit those are heavy! Like 4 stroke heavy.

Then once that looses all excitement you can try whacking it on the neighbours lawn.

Think one of the other wires may be a pick up for the Safari tachometer, I could be way off though as it's been fucking ages since I looked into diesel stuff.

Legend! Will let you know details as soon as the seller replies.

That spare pump was the original to the engine that came in the car, should have been in running order when it was removed and has just sat around since. /Think I may have swapped a small piece over to the pump in the car at I've point when I fixed the diesel leak it had. I had planned on using Terrano gubbins for the boost side of things, according to a local diesel specialist here it's the way to do it, but obviously I never got that far.

So yeah, I won a lawn mower engine on trademe without noticing it is pick up only. Any of you GCs able to pick it up and either store it or assist in getting it away with a courier? Beers/fuel/$/sexual favours provided for your trouble.

Aisan C26? Rebuild kit is a fuelmiser AN124NZ. Try L300 vans, Sigma, Chariot, Galant etc. Or it could be a Solex/Mikuni turd, if so yuck.

X10³ of lush.

It's direct from China, there's a whole thread in off topic regarding aliexpress and butt plugs.I've brought piles of jets (and a lot of other things) for my scooters from there with great results.

Aliexpress has a shitload of jets too.

I'm likely reading your post wrong. But did you earth the - terminal on the coil to the car's body/negative terminal on the battery??

A lot of the diesel ones do that too, it's something in the design of the air box/intake set up that causes them to moo. I'd get the detachable towbar if you're not going to be towing often/anything overly heavy. I used to keep my Cressida one in the spare wheel well if it wasn't in use.

Have you considered a 2zz?Congrats on getting the wag back on the road!

My Mitsubishi has electronic ignition and a ballast resistor, I was surprised to find out it's factory.On the Mitsi one of the dizzy wires goes to the + on the coil and the other wire goes to the ballast. /Ling post.

Pulled this out of the shed the other day, many kicks later it's running just as well as it was before winter, really should get around to fixing the choke this summer ha. Battery is fubard, reg/rect is suspect too, test ride around the block saw voltage spiking up over 20v and electrics started doing funny things. Have got a couple different reg/rects here to try and am going to chuck a new battery at it this week. MopedNZ being the epic GC he is hooked me up with a new shock for the rear! Should a huge upgrade over the worn out stocker. But I pulled the spring off and cycled it a few times, was pretty obvious there was more air than oil and pretty much no nitrogen in it. Stripped it down releasing the tiniest pfft of nitrogen, tipped out a splash of rancid gutter oil and cleaned it up, filled with some fresh 10w shock oil and promptly snapped the gas valve fitting off. Hopefully I can track one down this week then get Firestone to pump some nitrogen in it.

I've never seen another manual 4wd around.

There asking $6800 for the Super Custom, "rare" manual AWD. MTF turned me down anyway. Yeah, after driving it I'm not sure that it's made much difference if I'm honest.Carb/dizzy/van is fucked.

Thin plastic spacer between carb and manifold is just for heat soak right? Mine turned to dust trying to remove it, am tossing up between just forgetting about it or chopping up an old nylon chopping board the misses has that's about the right thickness lol. Also 1KZ-TE, 188k, new radiator and pump "It does seem to use some water, not so much around town, but on longer journeys." = run to the hills?