Raizer

First time dealing with a transmission that's filled from the drain, don't want to pay hundreds for a proper fluid transfer pump etc. $20 Warehouse weed sprayer and 15 minutes on the lathe should do the trick!

I made the alloy frame (3 piece that bolts together) and the stays + brackets etc etc for some signage on a shop in town, nothing to fancy but was a good change from mowing lawns ha! Added a few stays to the front panels today, not pictured.

Only found 2 online with pricing, around $1800 + GST. For that you can get something decent.

If the battery still doesn't cut it, those look like good sized horn speakers to mount in the front bumper of an E class...

Still tossing up between making/buying lowering links or just adjusting the height parameters once we get Xentry sorted out.

There is indeed huge big long bolts from one end to the other!

Yes, had equal length headers on my old wagon, got rid of the rumble and generally improved the sound.

You likely just need a bigger pilot jet. Or better still a non China carb.

My van rucs has ended in 076 since it was imported ha

It goes from the end of the current label. If you go over then buy more it essentially just backpays what you used.

Good point, the wheel spacers that failed cert on the Merc were never spotted by anyone in NZ until it went for the cert, so I doubt anyone at the local vtnz is going to spot wobbly nuts lol Oh lol and after all that with the spacers falling cert it turns out they were a factory fitted Mercedes part with the optional upgrade Carlsson wheels, not that it matters in the slightest now.

Wobble nuts/bolts for pcd change, I see in the lvvta info that they "should not be used" on a vehicle getting a cert. But what about WOF? No spacers etc just wobble hardware with snug hub centric rings locating the wheels?

I've always used a gasket scraper

Neither did mine on my 140, till the glue bonding the friction material on completely let go and the front wheel locked solid lol

There's a manifold design that would most likely solve your packaging issues...

Might as well go the whole hog and cable tie a set of plastic hubcabs over the freshly blacked wheels.

It's up to the individual certifier's discretion, there's no official minimum (I went through this with my Merc, it failed on having only 1mm engagement to the CB.) How thick of a spacer are you planning on running? If you go slightly thicker than the length of the centering hub then there is stepped spacers that make it easy.

Is it even really an Imp anymore with that engine?

Looking at the lvvta chip lookup page the cert is registered to the vin not the plate, my plate isn't even listed under vehicle details.

I think something is trying to tell you that you need to build an angry 3 cylinder engine at some point. Echo lost a piston, V6 tried to make itself a triple etc

Wait till you try a diesel! 20 Nm, 40 Nm, 105° then 105° was a bit of a nerve wracking process haha

I was under the impression that they were a total no go in general unless factory fitted? I'm looking into ways to modify my Merc mufflers and hide a pair of valves in there, was told to hide the cables and controller well/try to convince WOF guys they are factory fitted AMG options haha

That's a lush muff! I've used FMF exhaust packing sheet on a couple bike mufflers, seems to hold up well and the packaging says it adds something like 4hp haha Got any plans on how to hide the valve actuators etc for cert/WOF? Could try make the cable look like it's coming from an O2 sensor lol

"Compared to conventional type bolts, torque to yield bolts offer the engine manufacturer a number of advantages including; greater flexibility of design, reductions in component costs, more accurate assembly and reliability of seal. Engines designed utilising torque to yield (TTY) head bolts require fewer head bolts to achieve the desired clamping loads than those using conventional bolts. With fewer bolts the engine manufacturer has more flexibility in cylinder head and block design as well as reducing the cost of the engine."