Raizer

Still come Gizzy way for work? I can get it the rest of the way to Chris if it got here.

Same again, quiet for the first maybe minute then: *It died from running out of gas, I'd turned the fuel off. Measured squish with it hot, .8 in 3 different positions so in my mind that rules out piston hitting head. Could be detonation? Grabbed a digital timing light the other day when SCA had 40% off specialty tools, meant to be the go for bikes since you set the timing you want in the light and it should flash with the mark at TDC. So just need to remark TDC on the flywheel and see where it's actually firing with the engine running. Was about 22-24° with the old school light at with the engine at kick start speed, so may well be too advanced Other thought is the small end of the rod is worn, sounds like a rotational noise so maybe.

I knew that too, just had a dumber than normal moment ha! Think that could be why there is Barrys arguing over using a torch and just putting the gasket in the oven on high.

Finally gave it a kick with the .7 copper gasket, fired up sounded mint, no tapping just the sweet 2T ring-ding Then after a minute or so when it warmed up it started tapping again, way quieter than before but still very distinctively there Pulled the head and sure enough there is witness marks in the freshly polished squish band Thinking the profile of the squish band isn't quite the same shape as the piston crown, was going to attempt reshaping it a little, but the CBFs struck, so try again but with a .9 alloy gasket! Yeah it's ugly, I know this, but don't care, if it works out I may yet get @00quattro00 to laser one from .9 copper. Read on a lot of old bike forums that you can and should anneal alloy with a torch just like copper Fucking swear the old Triumph Barries are trolling! Started again, made a nicer looking one, coated in copper spray instead of attempting to anneal, done. /Haven't started it yet, so until I do it's 100% fixed in my mind haha

12.7mm, but I reckon a spacer and a copper washer would take up the excess. I normally run a 8 heat range, but I may have just scored another full top end that the hotter 7 would be perfect for...

Oooh that could be interesting to have a play with! What heat range are they? Oh and I forgot to add a pic of one of the most important additions to the bike

It was just me being a dumbass and assuming I could run a projected plug in the new head like I was in the last engine, got it sorted now. If the piston touches the plug now I've got much bigger problems hahaha

Pretty sure this was grabbing a bit, the bigger marks etc were there already but it wasn't rough when I fitted it Little bit of rubbing with 400, 800 then1000 paper later and it's more than good enough for me Shit pics, work phone is a bit of a potato and they were taken in messenger. Also it looks like the piston was hitting the plug lightly I'll be rather embarrassed if that was the noise ha! Had a set of jets on hand left over from my old parts business, so that's a plus I guess Always amused me how economy options saved costs by having smaller heads on them just to save a little bit of brass! While it was apart I realized that the carb has all the 4 stroke bits in it, needle, slide, atomizer, atomizer bushing etc, works out much easier to just buy a new 2t spec'd carb than all the individual bits, so once I get the credit card balance a little healthier I'll order one, they are pretty much impossible to get a spot on tune from with the 4t bits in. Bit of info for anyone interested 4T atomizer and bushing: 2T spec ones: Swapped the projected tip NGK out for a standard tip Denso IRIDIUM POWER I had kicking about And added a nice new Uni filter, which only looks majorly over size and out of place hahaha

You nailed it I reckon. Gets a bit tighter further down the bore. Piston has a spot or 2 that look like they were starting to pick up, but more than healthy enough to polish out, so yeah going to polish piston, refit, add a decent filter and upjet a bit then just try to ignore the noise as it's already got the biggest oversize piston fitted.

Brand new SGP bearing, but you might be on to something with piston rock, will try find my feeler gauges and see what sort of clearance it's got

Fucking thing is still rattling/tapping, WTF. Wondering if something is makes the clearances close up when it's running or something. Also felt like it's starting to either nip up or something, actually sounded and felt more like it was running out of gas rather than seizing but will pull the cylinder again and check for any damage just in case and pull the carb + fuel tap filter and have a looksy while I'm at it. Goes fucking well when it wants to though haha.

Kerosene seems to be used a lot to thin out diesel for icy climates, it's also the go for thinning out waste vegetable oil fuel I've read.

Genuine Suzuki base gasket I removed measured up at bang on .50, found a roll of .40 paper I had kicking about and squashed a bit and got this .50 - .12 = .38, couldn't have gone better if I'd planned it! Cut a gasket, then played with shimming the head to find exactly what thickness I needed gasket wise .75 was indeed about right giving a squish of bang on .65 Scrounged up an off-cut of copper, measures at .76 Spent a while marking out a gasket, took my time trimming it the best I could with snips Then promptly fucked it cutting the inside, attempt 2 or 3 went a lot better, not great but good enough for now. Next time I think I'll just bite the bullet and get one waterjet cut!! Test fit gave a squish of .67, I annealed the gasket with a MAPP torch, wanged it back on and torqued it up, checked squish and got .64, mint! Not so mint was dropping a nut while the head was off and it falling into the cylinder, the piston was at BDC so it went right down the exhaust port and is now in the expansion chamber ha. Oh yeah, and I finally measured up and ran the numbers 68.68cc of fury!

OFF WITH HER HEAD! Pretty obviously been tapping away! Did a measure up, base gasket could really be .12mm thinner for perfect flow, need to get hold of some .75 copper sheet to make a head gasket from to space the combustion insert up. All in all, not too bad, could have gone real bad real fast at the RPM I was pulling yesterday!

Methanol is deff something I want to try out someday, maybe not on this bike though lol Tried checking again with thinner solder .14mm is more than a touch tight! /Knew that anyway since the piston is tapping the head.

Carb is correct, just turned a bit

So much fun to ride, since there is zero low down torque, you have to give it a good twist of rabbit before slipping the clutch a little or it just dies, it pulls away fine, maybe a bit stronger than a stock one, then the pipe hits HARD and FAST and it just wants to rev and rev!! Got 80k at the top of 3rd on the way back down the street and it was only just feeling like it wanted to go up a gear But what I have been telling myself is just chatter from old clutch basket bushings is more likely the piston giving the head a bit of a kiss, so I'd better check squish and port timing and work out a plan from there, if I'm lucky the port timing will let me change to a thicker base gasket, if not the head will get a bit of a polish out. Edit: just tried to check squish, a piece of 1.6mm fluxcore solder locked it up solid, measured .47mm on second attempt. And that's not the squish measurement, just the max compression of the solder hahahaha

Got a spare flux capacitor kicking about?

Bit of very temporary CDI wiring Note at 8 seconds where I am reminded that a CDI kill wire is very spicy while the engine is running haha

Stole the MB engine. Fucking hate working on filthy engines, so quick degrease and water blast Wanged the H100 top end over onto it, "fresh rebuild, no receipts bro" Went to throw it in today and, well, fuck. Honda being Honda just loves to fucking change stupid things between models/sub-models/years/what part of the world they are sold in/to fuck with me specifically. The 2 engines are 95% identical, only the MB came with CDI and the top engine mount is 20mm wider only on one side, why? Because Honda! Was going to just cut it, but that mount also has the breather in it, so if I cut 20mm off I'd open up 10mm of breather and loose too much strength. Smart thing to do would be throw this engine back into the MB and rebuild the original... Never said I was smart ha Just need to rob the CDI, Reg/Rect and the throttle/oil cable splitter from the MB, rig up some caps to delete battery and yeah it should go.

H100S engine is in desperate need of a rebuild First thought was seize, but didn't really make sense as it didn't get warm or anything, still pulled the top end. Found it had a new base gasket, 2 loose head bolts and the washers from the other 2 were missing, lol yeah I'd say someone has been in here before! Piston isn't scored, rings look sweet, cylinder is pretty much mint besides needing a good bit of porting... Remembered it had been making a bit of a nasty noise inside the flywheel, maybe the issue is in there Lol fuck, the nut and washer were just floating around in the center of the flywheel, looking at the marks they have been jamming against the inside of the cover. But it was still locked up, dropped it into gear and giving the rear wheel a whack backwards turned the engine, but forwards again locked it in the same spot, so it's in the clutch side somewhere. And since I've discovered that the crank bearing on the flywheel side sounds abysmal and has enough play to let the magnets hit the stator I've called it for this engine, it can fuck off into storage. So now I'm cleaning the piston dust out of the MB's bearings and putting that bottom end into the H1 along with the 12v conversion and CDI etc.

Will come have a chat some day once we get the tanks etc striped down for this and Sandy's A bike + we're back in level 1. Leaning towards brown on this one and letting you go nuts on the MB once that's on the go.

Haven't got anything specific in mind as such, other than very 80s abstract But I am very much leaning toward a metallic brown and stripes tbh