tortron

Is the fuel really old?

My morrie predates BMC altogether, so I'm in the clear

What brackets do you need? I have a few from my Nissan brake investigations

Used it in the states. Was pretty useful for crashes and cops

The heads are hollow so kids don't choke on them right. I bet it's just like blowing over the top of a beer bottle

I got my corvette servo off rockauto, they also have shift kits

Dissasemble the Wiper switch. There might be built up carbon in it. I had this in my honda so the relay would click constantly, but not quite enough volts to get the wiper to activate

Might help

Rolls royce would send a man around with a tin of paint, a brush, some cutting compound and 5 packs of cigarettes and he would touch up your car by hand and polish it in till the repair was indistinguishable You can brush or roll on any paint, a quality roller is probably the best option. There are endless videos on YouTube about getting it perfect. I'd probably try a few thinner percentages to find the best self leveling I sprayed high build primer on my morrie with an airless sprayer under a tree, and it went on preddy thick, but that was ideal actually. I usually do the underside or interior floor with a brush or roller With durepox (2k) it comes out smooth, probably opt for the slow hardener. It sucks to sand when fully hardened but would seal everything nice Borrowing a shed/yard for a weekend might be worth it. I have done a bunch of spraying outside and it's usually fine, normally do it in the morning on a calm day to avoid bugs

24.5 to 25mm Manual here https://www.manualslib.com/manual/1143199/Suzuki-Lt-A50.html?page=63#manual

10.9.2 in the construction manual, must not be positioned near moving parts. Unless protected, or outside of thr movement of a broken driveshaft

An excessively long belt is probably not the best, but I don't thing you will have an issue for your application. There's factory long case gy6"s that people like to use for big wheels. They use the same cvt components between them

Cut the rear half of the transmission off and extend it back. Will need a new longer belt

Perhaps some mild boso

It has a 4 wire cable as there's 2 control boards in it. But the two wires can be bridged and connected to 240v as one. (Shown in the manual as ok as 4 or less elements) I ran an AI SIMULATION and wired it up as I drew it and it was happy with all 4 elements at full crank, during a short test at least If I cut an access hole in th3 back of the drawer and use a mirror and hold myntounge just right,I can wire it directly but bugger that

Here's an mspaint diagram

Yes, the house has gas, I want to change to gas cooktop So we got induction

As long as there's iron in them (stainless steel is fine, glass, aluminium, copper doesn't work)

Sparky question Ceramic cooktop is past it and takes like an hour to boil a pot of water Wife has taken it upon herself to order a kogen....... induction cooktop Set up is 32amp breaker to the oven, 3 core wire nutted into the back of it then doubles out the back of the oven and nuts into the cooktop. Induction cooktop has a built in cable that's about 20cm too short to attach into the oven connectors. I took the cover off the underside of the induction cooktop and the cables are spade connectored into the boards. Can I join the cables with a junctionbox behind the built in oven? (Induction cooktop is 7200w, I believe the ceramic is about 6000w)

Should not isn't must not

https://lvvta.proboards.com/thread/649/installing-electric-steering-column

I've always used a razor blade (double edged, shaving one, zero safety just hold the blade)

I looked at it, it's about as good as it will get tbh. I did some port polishing and knife edged the guides which didn't do any seat of the pants improvements. The dr125 heads have bigger valves and a slightly different port angle (they use the big knuckle dome type piston) and although on paper they put out the same power, it feels it flows better in the high rpm to me. The ideal head is apparently the LT185 quad head as its got the biggest valves and some other stuff. But if you have a flat top piston gn then you lose compression ratio and need to swap to a high dome piston. I currently have a dr125 head on mine, I was doing some tests with the 150 kit and some different pistons, it was promising but they all lacked due to not a big enough dome. You could go a couple mm bigger on the intake valve, I have been meaning to do and test it, I did all the measurements and it should be a good little upgrade. The ports were pretty clean, I just did 120 grit and mirror polished the combustion chamber, piston dome, shaped the valve guides and clocked the spark plug to point to the intake valve. Something to do if the engines apart otherwise I wouldn't bother. If you do the dr200 cam (or hotcam) and a direct pull pumper carb you will have a nice snappy response and a noticeable increase in acceleration (not really any top speed increase tho). The other thing that made a big difference was I changed the rear wheel to an 18" from a gt125, I mainly did it for tyre choice,but I guess the overall difference in weight of the wheel and tyre made a big change to how the bike reved up. It also turns in better imo. (All the old dr125 engines are rooted, good luck. I mainly wanted an old one as they have an extra gear and kick start)

You could do a big brake swap from a 90s Nissan, they are around 220 to 240mm generally