tortron

depends if the seals are pood i would refill and see what happens, they are easy to disassemble tho always remember never trust a jack, axle stands are safety first better living everyone

Car seems to stop ok while driving to the end of the driveway and back gave a quick tune by ear, engine is purring and exhaust is aggressive, which just doesnt feel right coming from my little 900cc minor Went to work on the instrument panel have all the gauges mounted and working (just need some longer bolts for the water temp one, is crooked in the pic) will install a second pair of back lights at the bottom of the cluster will drill a hole for the trip meter reset thing will sand and paint the cover and reinstall chrome rings. need to adjust the clutch to my liking/get used to the light flywheel

Brakes appear to be sorted. Recap of brake work that i have done master cylinder re-sleeved in stainless and rekitted wheel cyclinders (total of 6) re-sleeved in stainless and rekitted new pedal fork and piston/rod new hardlines and fittings all round new rubber lines (3 total) new handbrake cables new shoes (match my drums perfectly, which is a nice surprise) new rubber on the pedal thought i was having issues with the rear shoes binding on the adjuster, but it looks like its just the adjusters themselves being difficult (flathead screwdriver keeps slipping out, my larger screwdrivers are too wide to fit though the hole. Eventually found one that fits but its stubby. Got it to work by taking off the wheel and using a set of locking pliers on the screwdriver for extra torque. can lock all the wheels (car on stands, assistant stepping on brake, me wrestling with each wheel) with pedal and handbrake. So im hoping after a bit of bedding in, and a final adjustment i will be done with this part of the build

bugger, i just gave 2 spare caps away to another 1300 owner missing a cap

we have similar tastes in exhaust and carb setups my vote is suck through turbo 1300 bmc

replaced the rubber lines. Pedal is rock hard now (shoes adjusted right out into drums), harder than before even. will back off the shoes and give it another test

sweet loaded up pic should just go ahead an ride around the world on it http://www.thepostman.org.uk/ TBH, this was one of the most unprepared trips i have ever read.

old speedo vs new speedo same tpm and body, so direct bolt in replacement Trip meter upgrade to luxury spec out of the same car i got my amps and water temp gauge (dont remember what it was but im thinking Riley. Had a fold down walnut tray table for the back seats, so not your standard pleb driver car)

I did not, but they are looking pretty good (as did the ones i took out) (spun the wheels and applied the brakes/adjusted the shoes right out. then checked for high/low marks) Some damp spots on the rear flexi line - which isnt in production at the moment. So i will swap out the series mm hardware for later spec so i can use a common rear hose. going to replace the fronts too, they look newer, but are probably about 20 years old. What i figure is happening is pistons move fine when i check (and have the drum off), but when all the drums are on the pressure is expanding the rubber lines

Brakes are putting the shits up me. Pedal feels great handbrake works fine all cylinders are moving nicely all shoes are adjusted correctly doesnt stop Back to the start again, shoes are all new, master and slave cylinders are all resleeved and rekitted, lines are all new (none of the rubber ones were in stock, i bet its them )

its all come about recently, when I got the car no one was producing anything

Dakar replica®/tribute stat

yea have seen all of the parts on offer im more of a do it yourself kind of guy, more period correct haha and i dont think i could bare to part with more than i would spend to buy an entire minor on a single part

old wof sheet Remedy corrosion left b pillar -was water getting behind the lead trim on the seam at the rear cab roof. Pulled it all out, ground it fresh, bogged it smooth remedy fuel leaks - fuel bowl needle was worn, replaced with new Steering box mounting bolts loose -Tighened and locktited Both driveshaft UJ's worn -Both replaced with S1 Landrover items from the UK Movement in draglink ends to comply with manufacturer specs - these are adjustable, i just repacked them with grease, seems within spec to me, will take the original 1940's workshop manual with me. Movement in front wheels to comply (kingpins) - previous owner replaced these, turns out the holes were worn out, so he used a punch to get a bit more meat. This didnt last many miles. I had them tinned up and reamed to size for a new set of kingpins - perishing in all tyres and engine/gearbox mounts meh not covered in the wof, they can wait. haha Have just finished giving the cab and tray several coats of paint will go for wof this coming weekend (last wof expired 3/2/2010, i took it in last on 21/12/11) time flys

MMMmm dusty needs wide wheels now roof doesnt even come up to the trucks bonnet haha

was hoping to post a vid of this driving out of the garage, but i ran out of gas for another day will go play with the truck, it even started first pop after 4 months sitting

all signs point to check your plug after a wot run

Still going on this -Wired in electric fan with adjustable control switch -Installed secondary fusebox for extras im adding -Rewired my indicators and the original wiring was yuck -Put all the wires going to/from the control box back in the right places (most had been moved around - had to strip some of the fabric loom wrap to see the real colour of the wires, all of them are bleached yellow with age, wow, they had some psychedelic wire colours in the 50's) -Swapped out fuel gauge for one that works -Wrapped extractors - trying to keep the heat away from the carbs -Welded up my broken passenger seat (has been held together with kneadit since iv owned the car cool one wof men) -Bolted in one of the seats, lost the bolts for the other i think there is more, but its all piddly little stuff. At least all my electrics, steering, and suspension is finished - theres very little left on a morry after that To do re-wrap loom with black cloth loom tape, to make the horrible old one look nicer and absorb my new wires - really needs a new loom, time hasnt been kind to the original. cut to length and weld on exhaust tip rebleed brakes - i dont see any visible leaks, so there is probably air in there still attach steering column paint instrument panel and put it back on get bolts for grill panel (miffed at the new chrome hockey sticks i got, the holes in them dont match the supplied studs) bolts for drivers seat road tune thats bugger all really isnt it

Is that engine toast, or just locked up from sitting? Grab a how to keep your bug alive manual and whip it apart

mums beetle had a fridge door rivited in and carpet glued down so no one would know. Best bet is to get repo panels id say. 1k for good floors and engine may be asking a bit much

my uncle has one the same colour/this is probably it i recall going over a bump and quickly realising that it had no seatbelts

damage from sliding into a curb is it?

I took a lock off one of my bikes (helmet lock actually) that had no visible code on it, locksmith opened it up and had a new key for me in 20 mins

Pancake filters and stub stacks to hold me over till i get to a custom jobbie

The gasket on yhe lid wont affect anyyhing. Minors are a pain to bleed, you couldld try a gravity bleed - i got quite a bit of air out that way. Shoes are adjusted till they lock, then backed off a notch (do that before setting the handbrake) i yhink last time i rebuilt.my brakes i bled it twice took it for a poorly braked drive, then bled it again. Pedal should feel stiff right off the bat