tortron

sounds about right. Should put some Singh grooves in there too for max turbulence

so here is an image of the offending item note the plug position over exhaust valve, this head is the result of 30 years of development! Trying to get a compromise between compression and flow.

yea can grab some syringes/disposable burete's easily enough. Probably its the best/only way to get a good idea

Short of CC'ing the head, how can i figure this out Lets assume everything is standard 4 cylinder bore :2.244in / 57mm stroke :3.543in / 90mm capacity : 56.04 cu.in / 918.636cc compression ratio : 6.7:1 Headgasket: 0.0433in/1.1mm will have to pop a vernier gauge down the spark plug hole to figure out piston heights aiming for 7.5ish as the new ratio Obviously the issue is the volume of the area above the valves, the area above the piston is mostly flat

Top idea, iv always been interested in the kit car conversions from the 50's They may still be awkward to drive and slow, but at least they look neat

Just checked the manual. 50kph is about right for 3rd gear so im probably not down on power, im just running out of road. Ha

i did the same with some kneadit stuff never lost any pressure on that rim again

Reply No.101 A worthy one at that. Just did several laps of our street First time its "been on the road" (not on a transporter) for probably 5 years. Currently on the std. Carb and exhaust manifold as i will need to use longer studs. Dont want to risk snapping them off in the block at this time. May get a 105e aquaplane manifold to use with my twins in the meantime. Gets the revs up very well, which i assume is the lighter flywheel in action. Need to give it a fine road tune as i wasnt getting much power over 50kph. Should reach 90-100 assume the timing is not quite right, wasnt getting much change from my vac gauge. Have a spare cylinder head im going to get milled down. Std. Compression is about 6.1 (they had high and low comp heads and pistons. MM's had the higher comp pistons, tho the difference in heads can vary wildly as manufacture tolerances may mean a low com head is the same as a high. Haha) Hoping to get it closer to 8.1 (7.5 :1 should be good as it gives me a bit of space to play with when i get a reprofiled cam). Really the shaved head is the 1st thing you should do on a banger like this, but dont over do it as they have poor flow to begin with. Also did a bunch of hard braking, began to grab very well pretty quickly. Just got to build up those leg muscles! Short term goals: Get it ticking over nicely Wof and do as much driving as i can. Missed summer cruising, ohwell. Mid term goals: High comp head get twins on get exhaust on long term goals: Over size inlet valves valve seals redone inspect pistons/bore and rering etc if needed - probably, she breathes pretty well (can oversize the pistons to get to almost 1100cc too) Further porting Further combustion chamber mods i.e. Tuning ford sidevalves book Get centres put into wider bands (got to put all those extra horses to the ground, running a common size and not having the tyres fall off the bead around corners too) further in the future: Touch up the paintwork again, its been treated poorly in storage Supercharge redo door cards

run fore and aft lines from the muffler tip for stability/hang your ariel flags from

note to myself, mazda 323/ford laser valves can be used as replacements for the sidevalve

use both canoes, platform in middle/netting profit

http://www.4wdaction.com.au/_phpBB/download/file.php?id=84416&mode=view

http://www.danielsternlighting.com/tech/relays/relays.html has a section for you

Oh boy, fuel gauge was acting fairly suspect. was fine before (infact pretty accurate for such an old piece of lucas electrics) brainstorming - gauge probably needs calibration, might have been knocked -wires are probably falling to bits -sender is probably ok, looked ok when i had the tank out and apart tank out - i put a new extra thick foam seal (window seal type stuff for a house i guess) around the tank hole. - I put several nice thick layers of paint on everything - i patted myself on the back for doing such a good job Will make a ground wire somewhere from the tank to the body. Was hoping to go for a drive with my 1/3rd of a tank today too

fit the cutest potbelly you can find and more importantly fit a huge swamp cooler to the side of the container to keep cool in summer

just have to remember that rod brakes were the norm just a few years prior, there was little traffic on the roads, roads themselves were poor and usually dirt, and speeds were much less. an emergency stop would be 100-200m distance from 40mph, with only a pair of milking cows for spectators

forgot to mention, due to 50 odd years of foot to the floor motoring, the accelerator pedal was bent quite a bit. Meaning with the carpets in i could not attain full dort. Reshaped it and now have full travel

just build a scatter shield/cage around the whole thing. bolt it down to the head and crank case then boast till your hearts content. SU carbs will very happily run meth, google knows more than me

make pontoon to ferry scooters/lawn mowers across the harbour

about 900cc. my 918 sidevalve came with 1 1/8. but the earlier morris 8's had the 1" im sure

1 inch wont find it at pickapart tho

Have done a ton of work, but its all piddly stuff thats hardly worth mentioning have put in new burgundy winglace, looks good with the satin black, and ties in the red seats. will probably run a body pinstripe of the same colour Re did a patch in the rear wheel well, then tapped it for wing bolt Ran the wires and set up the electric fan went through the exhaust and touched up a few dodgy spots in the welds. should probably go take it in for a wof next week, but im slack

if you decide the cabin life is not for you, just wack an aircon unit on the side and you will have a fairly good walk in chiller

http://www.stanceworks.com/forums/showthread.php?t=40785 camaro cut up and put into a minor also it lays frame

lovely, are there any 1970's Jap Concourse comps in nz?