corrupt

I got the flywheel off my 4g63 by jamming something in the teeth at some point around the block so it didnt move.

shit thats a good deal. i paid 500 for a manifold alone with no ecu,afm,etc let alone a turbo manifold. then again, i was getting pretty desperate.

this old bogan dude suggested that i took the same approach to my cortina's cam cause he used to do it and it was miiint. he suggested making the peak of the lobe flat. i never got round to it.

i also know the importance of correct wheel nuts, especially for the seating style of the wheels in question... my first cortina got written off after a similar thing while on the motorway.

yeh i hate it when cops do that^^ i think its to wait and see if you fuck something up so they have an excuse to pull you up.

awesome, i was shitting myself that i had done it wrong for a bit. but it is more or less what i done. I did have a little scare when i noticed dripping water under the car pretty much under the cambelt cover... luckily it was just the overflow bottle phew! how long do you reckon I need to drive via the running in method for? until the first oil change at 500km? and also, segedins are good cunts. the engine reconditioners ordered me the wrong main bearings and piston rings, so on saturday i shot down to segedins and got the right parts and im pretty sure they gave me trade price, rings were 55+gst and main bearings were 35 this was much cheaper than the incorrect parts i was supplied which i will be returning on monday

The engine is all primed up now ready for its first start up, the bearings and piston rings are brand new. What do I do exactly? let idle for a little bit? drive straight away? put load on straight away? etc someone please enlighten me!

what about oil? just normal 15w40? or some sort of running in oil?

how did you go about bedding them in?

Ive just rebuilt a 4g63 with new rings and block has been honed, also has a new head gasket. I need to retorque the head after running the engine for 10mins, but unsure what my best approach is cause the rings need to bed in also, do I take the car for a mean thrash or just sit it at 3k or something?

maybe have a section of the fuel line which isnt rubber which only runs for the bit that crosses over above the exhuast?

after having a quick look at this, im keen to mess with one of my spare carbs.

^^ that diff will be sweet. 2L cortinas come out with 3.75 standard, so something around that will be perfect.

my car ran on like every time i turned it off last week. i blame shitty petrol, as this week, it hasnt done it once/new tank of gas.

yeh havent really ever thought about certifying it, sounds like a good idea anyway. i really need some info on those air line things on the supercharger(sc14). mr revhead: i dont have access to a fax aye, anyway to get them scanned?

so back to the original question. so ive mounted my supercharger up now, runs sweet. now im just wondering what the heck the airline outlets/inlets/vacumn lines? are for on it? i think there are 2 or 3 of them?

gaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaay

so ive mounted my supercharger up now, runs sweet. now im just wondering what the heck the airline outlets/inlets are for on it? i think there are 2 or 3 of them? also was thinking about the technicallities behind me needing to get a cert after its all done if im making over 20% more power. i was wondering, as it has an electricmagnetic clutch, if i turn the s/c off while driving on public roads, then it will "technically" be legal wont it? but mainly concerned about the first question.

supercharger mounted. now i needa start sorting out all the piping and fueling.

haha maybe in a crash or something, but yeh my cortina = hasnt had locking strips in it for bout 3 years, no problems yet, but i suspect they push the rubbers out and seal them better to water etc.

probably what it already has in it, as it is jetted for a 2L factory. this is if your refering to dgav 32/36

i have a solid as fuck v8 mount on one side of the engine in the tina as one of them tore and i was desperate for one and that was all repco had thatd fit at the time. was pretty expensive though, $80 on trade price at repco.

Lowered it a bit in the front, im quite happy with the result, it has the mean nose down stance which my old cortina had(but lower). Also chucked the 1 piece driveshaft in, might change it back to the 2 piece as it does bang on the floor sometimes, but ill see how it goes. the crossmember is 75-80mm from the ground, which will always be in the back of my mind, for if i ever get pulled up. it doesnt look outrageously low though and the rear is still 2cm tyre to guard so i dont reckon ill get any beef.

ive heard of people just squeezing them on, but that might have been with steels i think. i reckon it'd be pretty difficult, would have to get the seat all remade 1mm out which would be a dent in the pocket if you went to aarow wheels.

thats a magical turbo placement