Nominal

Toyota, Turbo, 4x4, Duallie. What more could you want? https://barnfinds.com/turbo-dually-camper-1987-toyota-sunrader-4x4/

No.

DIY Removable towbar kit. I think the tongue was from a Hiace or something?. Anyway, a bit of welding, grinding and bolting and it's worked fine for a few years, even with some fair loads.

Because the compressed height of the bags is so much smaller that the coil you may not need cut up the pockets on the chassis - for the Mercury I did all the mods on the lower arms - the chassis spring pockets I left alone, just mounted a big chunk of pipe up there with a threaded rod for the upper bag support.

Always look out for you/the car at the BH.

Yes, it's a dick around trying to find calipers that will work. You could take a walk around a wrecking yard looking for options. I have some sort of Subaru ones on my MM project car that work with the Cortina uprights.

Why not just skim some off the brake caliper adapter bracket to move the caliper back? Seems that it would be easier.

Are you sure one was attached, it seems that a VIN is not necessary if previous registered in NZ? https://www.nzta.govt.nz/vehicles/vehicle-registration/vin/ The one I've had attached to an import by VTNZ is on the inner guard.

I have had a VIN assigned for the woodie so it's properly recorded in LANDATA for the future. I also had the local Repair Certifier come down and take a look before I did anything. He confirmed that it's OK to go ahead and start work replacing the rot myself. He's since passed this project on to the new owner of the shop. so I'll have to get him down for a look sometime soon too. After that I felt it was OK to do a little dismantling. Removed the hood (floppy) and some of the grille bits and the drivers side guard for access to the A-pillar. Also had a go at replicating the front under-floor support. It was hard going in 16g, I made the sides separately using the nibble to fold the bend over as a flange then welding sections into the base. Turned out 'OK' but might end up making it again now I've had a practice run.

Nice work. Good for you for keeping at it.

i-car is pretty reputable I think? Here is there read on the Nissan factory instructions for repair https://rts.i-car.com/collision-repair-news/weld-through-primer-guidelines-nissan.html

Tried some of that Recharge liquid and dropping it a bit already. Plates look a bit distorted in that cell and it measure below 12v when taken off the charger. I reckon it's rooted.

I'm charging a car battery with the cover off, and only 5 of the 6 cells are outgassing. I guess the 6th is shorted/rooted?

I think it would be pretty rare to get a cert on a 1st inspection, but you might get lucky. When I took the Mercury in there was a fair list of minor items to attend to. I'm about 1hr north of Wellington and could loan space/tools if you like.

Next month then?

I think you will struggle to get it registered here without proper paperwork: Proof of ownership You need to provide evidence that you're the legal owner of the vehicle. This can include: the original documents showing the ownership history to the last registered owner in Australia (eg deregistration or change of ownership papers) and an invoice, bill of sale or receipt, etc. https://www.nzta.govt.nz/vehicles/importing-a-vehicle/step-2-evidence/used-vehicles-from-australia/

Any paperwork with it?

Can only do Sunday night.

/ling

Engine has been running barely for the last couple of years. Suspect a blown headgasket by the way the water in the radiator would foam out. Anyway, liberated another VN V6 from a stalled CF Bedford project. Got around to swapping over the past few days and found that it's a Series 1, where the one I had in here before was a Series 2. So, I needed to swap the loom over as well. Had some hassles getting it to run again, probably because the injectors were a bit gummed up. Starts now though: Need to sort the radiator plumbing to convert to a VR radiator and bolt a few bits back into place.

Nice I got the Commondore engine running after pulling the injector rail out and spraying fuel all around the garage. Swapped a couple of dead ones with working ones from the old engine and it fires up OK now. Have to finish up the plumbing for the cooling system before test drives.

Does fire a bit on 'start ya bastard' so it may be that the injectors are stuck. I suspect it's been a few years since this engine was running.

Well, there's one on the old motor. Although since the injectors are pulsing I imagine it must be working to some extent.

All seems OK to me. EFI relay is switching on. Injectors have +12v. Test light shows that they are being switched. Has spark and fuel. Apparently the PO had the front of the engine apart so the CAS might be wrong somehow? PITA!