Nominal

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Everything posted by Nominal

  1. This is continuing to chew time. The better of the two radiators fixed up. Got quoted about $700 for a recore! Sprayed cavity wax inside the sill and closed box section before welding the cover in place. I'll spray more into this area through a vent hole later but I wanted to get it into the middle of the sill length while it was open. Messy stuff, and had to be careful not to get it too hot/on fire when welding. Not vinegar: but cleaned up the part well. Front valence back from the dip stripping. Note the misplaced spot weld right in the middle. British quality!
  2. Great to see this legal and pretty! Good effort.
  3. Piked out of the meet and headed home to fix rust. Have fun!
  4. Put appropriate weight on a ratchet. Remember to account for the weight of the handle itself it you want max accuracy. Or use a light scale and pull horizontal. http://www.instructables.com/id/Bicycle-torque-wrench-from-a-fishermans-scale/?ALLSTEPS
  5. Sill repair panel is done. To get the curve I used a couple of strips of inner tube on the upper wheel of my english wheel (home made a few years ago). This lets the metal curve over the lower anvil without stretching it so you get an arc in the panel rather than a compound curve. It's not perfect because my lower anvils have a flat piece in the centre (which you need for normal wheeling) but the linear marks are pretty light / should sand out I think. I welded some tabs to the remaining parts of the sill so I could clamp the new bit in with clecos. Also made the inner sill closing panel up, but its a bit ugly so no pics. It won't be seen once it's all together. Have picked up the front panel from Metal Immersions but it hasn't made it out of the Nissan's boot yet. Next is to make a new piece for the bottom of the guard. I could probably weld the old bits back in, but I had to make two cuts (didn't cut far enough up the first time) so it's probably better to renew it all. Have a paint issue I'll ask about elsewhere.
  6. I see that the NZ Car Construction Manual is now available online (new name too) By chapter too, if you are so inclined. http://www.lvvta.org.nz/shop/
  7. The under floor structure has new metal now. Including the inner vertical parts of the sill. Next is the outer part of the sill, including a curvy bit that goes under the front guard, and the lower bit of the guard itself. There were replacement sills in the spares pile, but I'll just make new parts for now. Looked a bit more closely at the drivers side, and I think it needs a similar operation, along with a bit of the floorpan done too.
  8. If only the poms had invented an engine where the valves were up top and easy to adjust.
  9. Nice! We need more quality British cars around here.
  10. I relocated the shocks to the rear, above the steering, on my Mercury. There's no reason they can't be on the front side though, the lower arm moves in the same arc regardless.
  11. Going to leave the welding on the front bit until I've acquired some epoxy primer, and also finished the valence which is at the strippers. There must have been a battery incident in the past because there were some holes in the inner guard behind it. Metal is a bit thin, but I got it non-holey at least. Check out the inner guard area on the passenger side. The area between the floor and the sill wasn't so good though. So, cutting time.... I'm only going as far as necessary to remove the really bad bits. Time for some new metal now....
  12. Is that flow reversion when you rev it?
  13. Looking pretty! Can you give a summary of what products you used from Resene, also what gun you got in the end?
  14. I'm looking for a generic aluminium radiator - about 500mm wide and 400 high. Had a poke around Trademe and staparts but didn't seen anything that suitable. Bonus points if it has 39mm outlets. Anyone have a link to a good generic catalog?
  15. Attacked the spares pile. New badge, I think this is for the tailgate. Plenty of spare lights, mostly tatty though. Bits in the middle are new front suspension uprights and pins. There's a new generator armature and some gennie Lucas brushes there too. . I think I'll drop off the main part of the front valence to the dip-strip man in Tawa, as it won't ever be any easier to get it cleaned off. Also need more 18g steel - might have to order a sheet.
  16. Needed to make a mirror of this brace for the other side where it had rusted mostly away. Paper should be strong enough, right? Here's where I'm at tonight. All fits together OK. I need to flatten the front piece out a bit as it has a slight bow in it then make a hole in the rear piece for the crank start tube. New brace in the back.
  17. Made new bits for the rusty crossmember from 1.6mm steel. Missed out on borrowing the folder up at Rod Clifton's so had to do it the slow, noisy way. Chassis punches to make the hole for the crank start tube. First panel done, except for trimming. Then made the rear face. More hammering to tip the flanges.
  18. Been working on this, making plenty of noise. Cleaned up areas where the spot welded flanges go - removing spot welded joins is a drag. Replaced the rusty bit of the rail with some 2mm plate. Ground and primed.
  19. Someone should start a wagnats thread. Good work on the rust repair G.