Nominal

The Vizard book is a great one for A-series tuning. Here's what he says about that manifold "although it may seem difficult to design a badly flowing manifold for the Series A engine, it has been done, and here it is the standard Leyland item" In practice a HIF44 single on a matching manifold is probably a better choice. I'm still running the stock 1 1/4 on my 1098, but have a twin SU set on a different manifold on a shelf somewhere, mainly because the twin carbs look better Link to the book - not a bad price actually with free shipping http://www.bookdepository.com/Tuning-Series-Engine-David-Vizard/9781859606209

Paddock hacks unite. Mine was dead (fuel pump again) when we came back from camping in January. It got shoved outside to sit while I was working on the Mercury. Finally acquired another fuel pump from PickaPart today, so it is alive again. Drained old gas in case there was some water in the tank. Fresh gas and a charged battery and it fired right up. Still does 5000rpm OK it seems. The back yard (paddock) is way too wet to drive around on though.

Yeah, not spuctakular, but OK. Picked up a factory Morris Minor manual - always nice to have. Also acquired an A32 radiator, and Skyline and Commy EFI pumps from PaP. Nothing very interesting there - a rusty 6-cyl P6 Rover, but who'd want parts off that?

Going to head off soon. Taking the daily though.Pickapart visit afterwards.

Some of them have a big solenoid that pulls a mechanism to make it spin proper - I've fixed a friends by acquiring another part, once from the tip shop. Pull it apart and have a look - you probably can't make it any worse.

Moving to Auckland to buy all ZD's vauxhalls?

I used Kaowool in my gas forge. I don't use it a lot, but it is still OK after a number of years. I did coat it with some of the ITC-100 stuff. http://www.anvilfire.com/prod-docs/index.php

The Coromandel is great. We camped at Waikawau for a couple of weeks in Jan 2013. Great place, but slightly windy when tenting. The Driving Creek Railway is cool too - I liked the brick/rusty steel decor at the base kiln area. Keen to do a future pizza oven area in a similar way. We drove pretty much all the gravel roads in the northern half of the coromandel over that period (in the HG Holden), so can totally agree with the fuckwits in rental Nissan Tiidas. Always a pain in the ass. Good to hear that the Viva behaved. Plenum explosions are no fun though.

Could be keen. Haven't been to much eventz lately.

That's going to be hard to make work. Maybe take a trip to pick-a-part and look for some calipers with a different 'offset' to the mounts so that there is room for an adapter plate. Otherwise, something like a 4-fingered E adapter could be made, and rotate caliper down to provide room. Would need to be welded though, and could be difficult to cert.

For rear? I did all mine with no issue - no crack testing or anything required.

Cert plate acquired. Beach Hop attended. I do need to make some changes to the rear shocks or something as it is rather bouncy in the rear when driving. I've been advised that '4WD' shocks would be better. Will do some research after the school holidays.

I think the scrub check is for one flat tire, i.e. one side low, so that helps a bit.

Barracuda? Something like that. I saw it on Sunday with the exhaust connected, rather than through the hood.

Valgas was back Bit wet at times.... This had an injected Holden v8 Bare metal with clearcoat. Amazing. Most popular with 6yo boys. Couch Surfing? Meguiars filming Beach Hop wedding aftermath Bride was late and rain had returned. A few Merc wagons this year. Chevette

Pics Oddly appealing.

Back home and knackered. Rain/drizzle was a bit annoying and reduced crowds on the street a bit I think. Did some cruising on Friday night and it took 40 mins to complete a loop, due to the diversions at the roundabouts. Keeps the cars moving though I guess. Will load some pics tomorrow. Probably need some new accommodation next year as the owners of the current place now live there full time and don't want to move out for 4 days. Anyone got any hookups for places to stay? Need whole house really.

That's looking great - nice work!

Kind of a tricky way of making the doors adjustable in the factory - mount to a bigger plate behind the panel then zap with the welder when in the correct position.... Easy to fix which is good.

Oh yes, I've seen that one before - is sweet. I've got a Model A axle hanging on my wall, somewhat earmarked for a future project. Also a 2T-B under a bench.

As per above. If you don't want to deal with the certification, either accept that you will be closed road/display only or restore it VCC-spec stock. For the front axle, something Model A based would give you more options I expect. http://www.nsra.org.uk/newforum/showthread.php?58359-Model-T-GOW-JOB-!!-Hand-built-steel-body Or, something like this could be built... http://www.mtfca.com/discus/messages/118802/177724.html?1292927515

As I read it, yeah. There is a table in the book, and since this is a full size, heavy car, the 1" Sch 80 is the spec. Next size down is 7/8 sch 80. Makes me worry what the links GBRC made for my Minor are. I wonder if the spec has changed over time. They turn out heavy duty, that's for sure. Like stockcar-spec strong.

The one I used initially had a 1" bore (IIRC), so for a particular amount of pedal pressure, the hydraulic line pressure wasn't good enough to really get the discs working. You could stomp on the pedal, but it took a while to stop (car is 2 tonnes). Going to a smaller diameter master gets more line pressure for the same pedal pressure so the brakes work better. The trade off is greater travel at the pedal. There are ways to calculate all this, but I find it hard to approach without some sort of starting point. Andy Smith reckoned at 20mm (13/16) M/C would be best, but I found the Corolla one first so decided to try that out. I might hunt down some better front brake pads too. Right now it has C-Plus pads from BNT. Surely there is something a bit more 'grabby' out there? The actual test is stopping from 100kmh within 4.4 seconds, which it does do (just), and repeating this 3 (or is it 5) times within a certain period to check for fade.