Nominal

Sure, I think it might have been discussed up-thread.. From LVVTA site: Can I remove my rear seats from my vehicle? Yes, however to pass a WoF the seatbelts will also need to be removed from the vehicle

And a special way of fixing dat shite http://www.lvvta.org.nz/documents/infosheets/LVVTA_Info_03-2004_Nissan_Terranos-Sept_2004.pdf

Read this http://www.lvvta.org.nz/documents/infosheets/LVVTA_Info_02-2013_New_SB_&_Mod_Prod_LVV_definitions.pdf

If you ran the battery dead flat a 10 or 20 minute drive likely won't get it back into cold weather cold start condition. 13.5v is an OK charging voltage. Plug it into a mains charger overnight at least. Last battery I recharged from flat (a nearly new battery) took 2 days to be fully done.

You know things are getting serious when you are looking at 365/65R22.5 tyres! Cool ride!

Dunno if anyone is into technical books, but the Capital Books shop on Featherston St is closing down. They have 25% off everything. There are quite a few car books, IT stuff, military, modelling (railway airfix etc) in there. Have been in twice now looking, but the book I really wanted was still over $80. (I'm cheep).

Fixed it for ya. You will probably need to get TAC approval for custom suspension arms (check the HCTM carefully before starting).

You could mount them above the top arm on big towers. Would look odd though.

I tried Jif, handcleaner, meths, petrol. None were great, and they went brown again really fast (stupid wingroad tyres). I might have a go a cleaning them again now, and see how they look (have been in the shed for a couple of years since the astro's cracked.

I've got narrow whitewalls from the supremes, but keeping them white was such a pain, that the white part is going on the inside this time.

Had 3 boxes to pick up at Mainfreight today. Much exite. Also, acquired some heat for the shed for those cool winter nights.

If you keep the A-arm inner pivots the same, the geometry won't change at all. It might be tricky to get enough clearance for the spring/shock and tyre/wheel at full lock though. I'd suggest pulling the stock spring/shock from one side then mock up the strut and see how it works. You need to get the travel correct too - have the bottom mount the correct distance out from the pivots so you get the full coilover travel.

Can you find out the ID of the original rear slaves, and compare that to the new ones actually fitted?

Cold night to be working on this heap outside (too hard to move into shed when it won't run) Dead pump. Didn't realise Holden ones were so little! The Nissan ones I normally tinker with are man-size!

Grab the welder and get to it!

Went to start the thing yesterday and it wouldn't go. Has been sitting outside under a tarp recently, but usually fires up fine. No noise from fuel pump so something wrong there, although pump relay is working. Hope it's wiring but likely to be a dead pump. In-tank of course (using the original wagon tank) so some dismantling required to get it out. Pffft. At least it's easy to work on - no bodywork FTW.

I was thinking about this while driving to Palmy and back this afternoon. Tomatoes in awkward areas - I am slooooow Have you read this? http://www.craigpotton.co.nz/store/swamp-fever

Watch out for odd looking weeds....

Drop a 1256 in it - max power! Good on your folks for supporting the viva sickness.

This kinda big block?

Keen, but can't confirm until later <skool holidays>

I bought a cigweld one recently, works OK, but not markedly better than my 15 year old cheap-ass china model. I felt stiffed on the price, because it looks basically the same as the cheap ones on TM. Def wouldn't pay $300 for home use, maybe if you are going to be welding all day for work.

There is a Jaguar one that is similar http://www.terrysjag.com/product/E-TYPE-SER15-ENGINE-MOUNTS/C18556X.html

Tow car for the porch?

Got a MIG? weld a nut onto the end of the broken bit (easy enough if the flywheel is cast).