thminiman

try JIF

Fuck that is a sweet oil Filler Cap

geustbook where? probably another miniman, Im the OG though so some cunt better watch it

hard, matte black will look sweet as just do it, even if you think its a shit idea now, it will grow on you

nah he's a cocksmith, simple mistake (insert pic of other side here)

people are free to roll whenever they want/need to though fuck i'll be amaized/stoaked if I remember bout this, will be in daily though

imagination elliot rotor that was going to be in his Chalky bee slammed to cats eye grader spec, likely on wide wide steels also, fuck that waka makes me excite you're cool bizzo

Hey man. Out of interest, can you take pics of the ports? and any coding on the block, Also if you take the rocker cover off there will be a code on the head, will also be interesting to see what rockers they've used.

they are pretty fucking heavy to your questions though, no they arent all the same. Early ones have universal joints instead of inner CV's. I'm presuming you have the CV ones. In which case I think they are all the same, or close enough. Difference comes in with the shifter some have an Aluminium casing, the length of the shifter, some just have two rods between shifter and box. Mounting is all generally pretty similar. Bang for buck, up to you, people just about give away 1000cc engines, 1275 is the best off the shelf but you'd be looking at 500 for something that runs reliably. pics please

Schwing If the big players have it in stock, the bloakes at SSA will get it in and sell you what you are after last time I did it I priced up a length from fletchers I think at my works good discounted rate, and SSA gave me a 1M length for cheaper than the 6m length divided by 6, dont quite know how that worked out.

Give a place called Steel south Auckland a look up, edit 09 2635806, 7 Mana Place in Manukau. They may/should be able source some. They cut to length too so would save you buying a full length I presume you know/tried the normal Fletcher easysteel Steel and tube Atlas Special steels etc

Material?

I imagine this is legit, but to me it looks as if its creating a bit of a weak point, when its short the strait section is quite short, then adding however much to it seems it should be made stronger

I rolled up to motorvation years ago when my alternator crapped out in my mini they seemed all good and pretty onto it they just diagnosed it for me free of charge. If you just want to get it reco'd you could possibly/should look at talking to an electric motor reconditioner. A1 pumps and motors are pretty good, the co-owner is an old workmate, their work is good and competitively priced.

for fucks sakes this is one of the biggest threads in the newschool section and not once has it delivered.

good evening Clint I am sadly a mini owner and have for a long time been dreading the Cert process. I have aftermarket modified brakes, suspension and engine, as well as seats and dash. My main questions are: -I imagine you have seen mini's before with a modifed firewall thanks to a sidedraught carb demanding space. they have a large hole in the firewall originally and have so far only removed a section smaller than a 5 dollar note. i do however want to remover more, i know i have to box this off for all sorts of reasons but can i make the box removable to ease the pain if i need to remove the engine/carb? - The engine itself is based on an original engine from a 1300 austin (1275cc) but is now a worked version of it, using mostly standard parts although almost all where heavily modified, what Records of work done do you need, as it has increased in power by 25% both from the basic 1000cc that was in there in the first place, but also from the 1275cc i started with. -The suspension and brakes where all bolt on items but include adjustable height platforms if you know how a mini's suspension is set up, adjustable bottom arms and castor rods at the front with a brake setup that are an aftermarket performance part. Again, what documentation do you need of these items? Also is gaurd rub strictly not allowed or is there some understanding for it? I plan on creating basically a whole new dash thanks to the carb again, are there any rules on position, type, size etc of gauges? I presume most rules will be regarding speedo. Also are there any legalities on displaying the mileage of the car? ie does it need to display what the known distance the car has travelled? Finally are there any rules on needing a oil catch/breather tank for the road? Take your time, PM me if it makes it any easier. Again your help is much appreciated

why not start by telling people what you have tried?

Hey man What carb are you running?

i am serioulsy hoping you dont paint this thing, just hit the drawbar/underbody with por15, that body is far to sweet to disturb

im geussing its gonna be belt drive? mean

should bring your RA28... I dare ya

i think perhaps even though its new oil it may pay to ditch and get some of a known viscosity grade. perhaps something on the slightly thick side. while whats fresh is in there rock some of that cleaner shit through and you never know

its not a late 70's/80's porsche is it?

battery is all good, has 12v when off and 14.5 when engine is running, connections are all sweet. am going to attempt to look into earthing issue again by running trailer earth directly back to battery with a seperate wire and see if this solves it, this way i will know for sure if it is an earth problem. following another path, anyone know much about rectifiers?

I have wondered if it is overloading of the flasher unit, but i would have thaught that problem would be eliminated by the fact it works fine and for as long as I want, just not when the engine is running. Yep the tail lights are earthed back to the body of the car. I haven't checked the battery or it's terminals yet, but will do tommorow when I have a multimeter handy.