DJZ

What brand of pumps do you use?

Where'd the motor come from? If it's been sitting for a while half full of water etc they can rust the fins off the water pump.

Only late ZXs had CVs and they are few and far between.

Tell me about injector placement on a single throttle body 6 cylinder plenum for a turbo motor. The factory injectors are very close to the port entry.

Yeah, it gets to a point then has a message in red saying either the plate number is wrong or the rego has been cancelled.

So I bought a car that the rego has lapsed on, it's still got the plates on it, the thing that I found strange is that we were still able to do a change of ownership online using the original plate number. What does this mean? Anything?

Classic, I was at that Z Club grasskhana, that's my black Z with the bonnet open in the last pic. My Dad used to have an Exa, fun cars.

Prozac used to own this many moons ago.

I found this video quite interesting, not sure if it will help you or not. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=T7S746x3o3Q

E. Parrott & Son is the one in Christchurch, can't comment on how good they are though, I've never used them. http://www.eparrott.co.nz/

I would definitely check with a certifier before doing something like that. I don't think my car handles as nicely as it used to (when it had R31 struts in it) with the new setup, but I had to use adjustable castor rods with custom brackets like the TTT ones, it was a real pain in the ass. The HR31 struts would give a slightly wider track compared to the factory stuff and have 100mm caliper bolt spacing. I'm still running spacers on the front of mine with 17x9s with around a +25 offset. I think mine probably should have been bump steer checked when it was certified, but it wasn't.

I'm using modified R30 Skyline bottom arms with custom made ball joints in mine, that's with S14 knuckles and hubs and S13 struts. If I was going to do it again I'd probably just get either the original struts or R31 struts made into adjustables.

The actual swap of the hub is straight forward: Remove the brakes, remove the axle, undo the big nut in the back (30mm I think) holding the companion flange on, remove the companion flange, carefully tap out the old hub, remove the inner bearing. You will need to reuse the tapered spacer between the two bearings, don't use the one from the 5 stud hubs as it might be a different length. Reassembly is the reverse of disassembly. Use a torque wrench to do up the big nut, don't guess.

Shouldn't be too hard, a little bit more complicated than the old Nissans as I'm assuming it has an internal drum handbrake in the disc?

Yes, a mate had some done for his VQ30, the guy that did it can only do side feed injectors as far as I know.

Is yours broken? Do you know if the 2 door and 4 door ones are the same? A mate is storing one of each for me, I'd prefer to keep the coupe one though as a spare for my car.

This is the thread he is talking about: http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/61549-turbo-intake-plenum/

The Audi race car manifolds are interesting but yeah, you don't need the fanciest of manifolds to make a lot of power.

What did you tee it in to? Did you bung up the barb on the compressor housing?

How did you plumb it up? Did you tee it into another hose?

Measurements are usually written on the seal, from memory they are 100mm OD 80mm ID. You might be getting the inner lip stuck? A little bit of engine oil on the inside of the seal and it should slide on reasonably easily. Repco have never kept the bushes btw, they can get them but don't keep them on the shelf. They usually don't wear much unless something else is wrong so most people are only buying them when doing an auto to manual swap.

If you want to get your 3 psi back then yes, your turbo will be working harder to make the "same" amount of boost (read at the gauge) though. I'm assuming your boost gauge is after the intercooler, the way you are set up now if you had a boost gauge before the intercooler you would probably see 10psi, but you are only seeing 7psi at the manifold. If you move the wastegate line to the manifold the manifold pressure should go back up to 10psi but your turbo will be making ~13psi before the intercooler. I'm tired but something like that!

Follow the hose from the actuator and see where it goes.

Where is the actuator boost signal coming from? You could try moving it to the inlet manifold if it's not already there.

Yeap, I can do that.