fuel

All 4G63s until 1992ish are 6 bolt flywheels. 4G32/37 is 5 bolt. 4G63 93 onwards (Evo 1 onwards) are 7 bolt.

haha yeah fully.. had no idea it was sitting on the light glass until I saw the scratches on it afterwards Good old solid G-lant.

Fuck that was an awesome nite big ups to you b-rad for the party. I wish I wasn't so sober and didn't have to go anywhere after.

I think it is strange that they use the same head gaskets/headset but I guess its just the way it goes. The earlier 4G62 used a different headset though so I'm not sure what's up with that. I gave up on 4G62s after I had this happen to my GT Cordia 4WD: I doubt the 4G62 can be bored out to 85mm as the water jackets are pretty damn close to the cylinder walls as it is. Most you would be able to bore it out to is approx 82mm. Do you recall what the pistons had stamped on the top? Also do you have receipts or part number of the piston rings?

Hey dude I work in car parts and I've owned MANY older Mitsubishis which I've worked on - including Sigma GSR-X, Cordia GSR turbo, Cordia GT 4WD Turbo to name a few - both with the 4G62 and the 4G63. I've also worked at a Mitsubishi dealer in the parts department as well. The bore and stroke of a 4G62 is 80.6mm by 88mm, whereas the 4G63 is 85mm by 88mm. The 4G37 is also 80.6mm bore, and I can back that up as I have dummy fitted a set of 4G62 pistons into a 4G37 block - as they both have the 80.6mm bore size. Here are some pics from the ACL gaskets catalogue (the gaskets company Repco, Supercheap and most parts dealers use). You can find this catalogue at http://www.acl.com.au/ if you wanna to look for yourself. You can clearly see that the 4G62 has a 80.6mm bore while the 4G63 has a 85mm bore. Here's another webpage which says the same - http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mitsubishi_Sirius_engine I can keep dragging up more and more websites and catalogues if you want. A TD04 is still not an Evo turbo dude. I was trying to compliment your ride and just point out a few errors that's all. Sorry mate but I'm not going to sit by while you spout incorrect crap - I know my Mitsubishis inside out and I refuse to be told I'm wrong when I KNOW I'm right. I rest my case.

Hey dude nice car, that's rockn! Just a couple things tho, the 4G62 and 4G63 have the same stroke - it's the bore size which is different. And also a TD04HL is off a RVR or GSR not an Evo (which is TD05 16g wheel).

Priming is basically filling the oil system with oil (oil oil pump, galleries, head, oil filter etc) so that when it does fire it has full lubrication. When we rebuilt the 4G37 I used penrite engine and camshaft assembly grease on all the crankshaft journals/bearings and put quite a bit into the oil pump gears too. I filled up the oil filter as much as I could with oil and chucked it on, then when the engine was in the car I took the coil to dizzy lead off and cranked it until the oil pressure light went off. Then connected the lead and it fired first pop and ran great.

Yeah sounds like you didn't put oil or grease on all the bearings when you reassembled it - and didn't let it get oil pressure first before you fired it first time. I've seen it happen on a few mitsi engines, specifically a DASH 4G63 going into a Cordia - all the bearings just turned to powder pretty much. Also you shouldn't have put Magnatec in straight away - as it is semi synthetic it needs to be run in on a mineral oil for at least 3,000kms.

It varies with the width of rim you are using. On factory 5" wide rims it would be approx +38~40mm.

Haha yeah I'm bored and I just wanted to post pictures and talk shit

Have you pulled apart a VR-4 4G63 recently? Compare the size of the crank, rods to any other engine (ie SR20DET, 3S-GTE) and you will be quite amazed. The 4G63 is very over-engineered and apart from the soft rings are an otherwise robust engine. No engine is immune to running a bearing. That picture I posted above was from Pete's Galant - it had done 411,000kms on the original bottom end. What was thought to be worn valve springs turned out to be excessive bearing clearance causing the piston top to be tapping the head. It got to the point where the noise was so horrible yet it still ran on all four cylinders no problems. As you can see the bearing was worn down so thin it squished out the side of the journal and broke into many peices, along with depositing a metallic paste all through the engine.

Looks like the bearing didn't like the increase up to 196kw+ Here's the results of 411,000kms on an original 4G37 bottom end:

Holy scrolling screen batman! Reckon you could resize those pics?

I have a car with a towbar and a trailer. When were you planning on picking it up? I got work 9-6 tomorrow but other than that I should be free.

Spend a weekend pulling apart the engine (make sure you label everything correctly) clean it all up and measure the bores, crank journal size etc and check if its all within spec still. If not you probably would be better off just finding another running engine. Seriously the 4G3x series engine is quite simple and there's not alot that can go wrong when rebuilding one of these. You just gotta have the right tools, patience and preferably a second set of hands.

Well Pete and I recently rebuilt a 4G37 engine (bigger brother to the 4G32) - we stripped and cleaned the engine, fitted new rings, gaskets and bearings and assembled the engine again all in a weekend. If definitely didn't smoke after the rebuild, and I'm pretty sure it used very little oil while being run in. The trick is you have to measure all the parts and make sure they are still within spec. There's no use chucking standard sized pistons back in when the bores are quite worn.

Yeah if there are alot of carbon deposits in the combustion chamber they can cause hot spots and cause the engine to run on as the hot spots will continue to ignite the air/fuel mix after ignition is cut. Too hotter spark plugs can do the same thing too.

Dude your car ROCKS!

Man time flys. So I've been playing around with painting some panels to see what white would look like: I think white seems to suit it so I'll paint the rest of it the same gloss white My list of things to do: Finish fixing rust paint rest of car get WOF + rego fit some jap style 14x8" wheels and stretched 185/60 tyres dump it on its ass with TA61 front struts finish rebuilding 2T-GEU and chuck it in find disc brake diff for it

$106 for the pair, they are 265mm by 24mm I think - DBA221 is the part number. Same rotors for FWD Sigma 84-88, 83-88 Chariot and the pre-facelift Galants 87 til late 89.

Double post FTW! Pretty sure it was only the Starion GSR-V and the FWD E15A Eterna/Galant VR Hard Top which had the Sirius DASH 3x2 engine. I had a Sigma GSR-X back in the day with a Sirius DASH engine, was from an Eterna VR. Power was approx 200hp which was impressive for the time it came out (1985). It redlined at 7000rpm despite still being a SOHC engine.

hey whatever happens I'm keen too.. just I don't have an oldschool car on the road yet. Lemme know whats happening

I got my set of Solex locks from work for $80 - and we don't even sell Solex locks!

You don't have to do anything illegal to run in an engine. I kept under the speed limit easily, just by using lower gears and letting it rev out a bit to 4500rpm (redline 6000rpm) in the first few gears, and just cycling acceleration and deacceleration in the same gear and giving in WOT a few times (not that it would accelerate fast with WOT ). Then we took it out on the open road for about 20kms just driving normally and trying not to keep it at a constant rpm/load for too long. Once I tweaked the ignition timing it was good to go and Pete drove it another 300kms on the open road to finish running it in. We used just some cheap Valvoline SF grade 20W50 oil to run it in. Keep using a mineral oil for the next few thousand kms at least, then switch to whatever oil you wish to use.

About +35mm if I recall correctly.