Truenotch

I've seen this style used with some success in the past: https://www.trademe.co.nz/business-farming-industry/industrial/manufacturing-metalwork/drills-accessories/listing-2231751981.htm?rsqid=ba82531e18eb4aab987ce06015cfbfa8-001 I'm pretty sure the arbour is upside down in all of those pictures...

Good meet . Well done to @Archetype for winning 4 FREE BURGERS in the Jalapeno eating competition!! It's amazing what a man will do for free burgers. Well done to @Zeubin for a respectable third place. And cars:

This is tomorrow night. A couple of us will be taking small bikes. See you there!

I might bring my FA50 as a backup bike. It'll do 80kph on the flat, but is geared pretty high so could be punishing up hills. It's got a 2 litre fuel tank, terrible lights and the brakes almost work.

Sheeit, this is next week. This month is going fast! Next meet is Thursday July 18th at 7pm. See you at Burgerfuel! Here's the facebook event: https://www.facebook.com/events/348168292782181/

Hopefully the MX100... Will get started in September once the Racecar is back on its feet.

I’ve made good progress on the right hand tub now. Got most of the finishing and a coat of primer onto it. Then @Rhyscar came around with his tube bender and we started on the new radiator support: This bolts in place on the sides and will have a couple of vertical stays for the radiator and ducting mounts. Popped the guards and bumper back on for a visual inspection: And the new radiator will mount like this: With ducting to take the flow out the bonnet. Woohoo! Now back to body work in the engine bay.

Haha, cheers man. I’ve never been much good at big, so half the fun was learning how to mix and lay it again... The stuff I’m using doesn’t change colour when you add hardener, so I doubled down on hardener the first time and ended up with a streaky mess to deal with. Recent applications have been much nicer! Plus the sanding is basically cardio . Its getting there now - bit of filler primer and seam sealer done. Now it’s time to start applying filler to the other side and get the rest of the bay cleaned, sanded and primed for paint.

September will be two years since I've driven this car... So I've decided that I should get it going and try to race it at the final round of the Manfeild winter series. I've not done a whole lot since 2017 due to general slackness, but have cleaned up a bunch of welds around the tubs. This was about a year ago: Fast forward to this week and I've started doing things again. More weld removal, a few holes welded up, paint removal etc. A bit of filler and the first coat of etch this evening to see how it looks: The underside is still a bit wrinkly, but it's good enough for an inner arch. Now to get the other side. to this level.. I always forget how long it takes to sand filler! It's a pretty painful job . Once both sides are in primer I can give the rest of the bay a good clean up, sand and start thinking about paint.

16 Valve club for lyfe. @Stu

Have you done any reading about anti reversion chambers on headers / after headers? I know you tested an expansion chamber at one point, but I'm not sure if you've given these puppies a go. It sounds like the theory around stepped headers could serve a similar purpose to these anti-reversion chambers. They look like they could be fiddly to make though... There's quite a few open wheeler headers with these bits in them (high level like F2 and old F3 cars) and lots of chat in the big block speedway world too.

@kpr - have you done a side by side comparison of your 151kw tune with the filter installed/removed? I'd be keen to see if there's any difference with the filter on. Also keen to know how much room you have inside that filter between the top of the trumpets and the inside of the filter element - it looks spacious compared to a domed pipercross/ITG. I also lolled at the way those silicone joiners jiggle in the high RPM. There's some serious pulsation happening above 5k or so.

I reckon the steering wheel is bent because people will put all their weight on it to get out of the car... Might be worth adding a grab handle somewhere to make it easier for oldies to get in and out. Also, gizz a hoon on your rusty penthouse .

Hey y'all. Hypothetically, is there any way to reverse a lapsed registration? I'm pretty sure the car in question fell off hold in May 2017 and the owner didn't realise until it went for a WOF the other day. I've heard there's a form you can fill out to reverse the cancelation process, is this true? Asking for a friend.

A few snaps from Thursday night. There were more cars earlier on that I missed.

Far out, that is some bad pitting man! Condolences. On the plus side, if you think it went awesome before, it'll blow your mind once you get a decent bottom end into it. It's getting pretty hard to find 18R blocks now, so might be best to go oversized. Are there any friendly engine reconditioners in CCH who might be able to help? Also, what to the valves and seats look like? Hopefully not as corroded as the bores.

Well done re: attendance. Shame about security. Im happy to chat to plaza management if it’ll help at all.

Those have “49cc” cast into the cylinder and no one will ever know it’s 60cc anyway. It still won’t be fast, but at least it won’t be so slow .

Get one of these up ya: https://www.treatland.tv/suzuki-FA50-45mm-cylinder-kit-p/suzuki-fa50-45mm-kit.htm 60cc and should be ready to bolt on and go.

That's not a lack of air cleaner issue. It'll be a big air leak or the throttle slider is being held open (either not sitting in the slot right or a bunch of shit holding it open.... or a sticky throttle cable). They need an air box/filter, but you'll only notice it when under load. It will start to cut out under load from being lean. All you need to do is grab some air filter foam from a bike shop and make up a new element (the bike shop made one for Rahn's FZ in about 10 minutes). Come at me if you want any tips on making Suzuki F's go OK.

Paging @BobbyBreeze, do you read me.

Shit yeah. The East Cape 2 stroke club grows!

Wow man, it's so much better all the way through! I thought the old line was a torque curve for a while...

Luckily it's a 2 stroke and pulling the top end to bits is a minor job. You might be down on compression which should be fairly obvious once the head and barrel are removed. Have you inspected the variator and belt at all?

Douglas Automotive and Engineering are tops. @Geophy's family have had their vehicles serviced there for years and Vince (owner) is a GC. We randomly met him in the USA and went to Bonneville with him and his son. https://www.douglasautoandeng.co.nz/automotive