drftnmaz

i recon you should have a talk to any at X-tune(north shore, auckland) if you decide to stick with the RB30, he can chip and dynotune your factory ecu, then your only limited by your turbo, fueling and then internals, he is the man when it comes to boosting high comp engines tho!!! usually round the $1100 mark for a chip and proper tune, (some road tuning for low-load drivabilty and then dyno to chase upto power and better knock checking)

very interested in this! would love abit more traction at low speed in the drift car

seeing as your using random cross-member anyway just use a front mounted rack, like from a s4/5 rx7....

unsure on your logic here, a track car is exposed to far more loads and risk than a road car should be?? logic there is for a track car you do what you want and make it strong, scriutineers call if you pass... this is a road legal car so concerned with rules to pass the cert, and also a way that looks nice that pic is a random, car is bare so i have a clean canvas to work with... i can do it like this on the passengers side, but the drivers side it needs to be higher and further forward so would have to build pedestals or similar, and thought box section from side to side would make things easy to keep level tap would be M10x1.25 -and i just found one in my collection! so i think i'll go buy some or thick walled tube and tap a thread into it.

so like a rivnut fitted to a u section, which fits snugly round the box section, from underneath, which a crush tube for good measure... sounds sensible and spreads the load nicely one of these\/ ? had been considering some thick crush tube welded in and then thread tapped into it, but i don't have the right tap pitch (but can buy if need be)

im interested in finding some good/better ways to mount fixed back seats in a road-reg race car... i had a quick look at schedule A (general race regs) and the only info i can find is the mounting points but be 40cm2 (about 64mmx64mm 3mm plate) and other info is on clearance to cage most common design i have seen on other race cars ive worked on is these plates welded on each side, then some 1" box section going from side to side with nuts(or maybe fresh steel tapped for thread?) welded into the box for the seat to bolt to, seems a easy way to mount, but i don't like the idea of welding a nut into the box, seems like a weak link to me? ideas please.... normally i just do track cars so it doesn't matter but this is a street car that is going to get certed, (two seater so reclining etc isn't a problem) so want to do it properly, do not want to have to re-weld anything on the floor, would turn out messy! (oh and i can't use factory mounting points due to clearance) heres a pic of what i'm sorta talking about

keen, i'll bring the daily

i love your determination, but as per government spec they just don't care btw: everyone's driveway/workshop is classed as an access road or part of the road, until you put up a gate or rope saying "private property, no public access". as long as its open to the road and has a driveway then its part of the road

you make a apearance in a few of the vids from hd4 http://vimeo.com/30881345 And http://vimeo.com/30655868

i did a conversion into a HQ using factory steering box and a electric mr2 pump, didn't like the ulgy pump on the motor

other thing that i keep thinking when reading this is that your actuator, either has no pre-tension on the flap, or it is installed on a odd angle and is sticking i put a new turbo on the race car and went for a tune last week, was not overly impressed with the results, and getting the boost to go up on the dyno was hard work, and had us running around in circles, then when the car cooled down i could hear wastegate flap vibrating at idle, (once upto temp would go away) but throttle response was shit and wouldn't hit the gate pressure until late... a 2-3mm washer to space out the actuator and its now fine, boosts like a champ unfortunately you can't space your actuator with washers cause its mounted on other side of turbo, however if you can get a crow-bar in there you may be able to bend the actuator mount a few mm?? just with how you can't control the boost seems like the same issue i had, and would do unexplained stuff, (would still free-boost if you pulled the line) something to consider

i thought they heated then used a rolling press device it to reduce or increase the arch, then re-tempered afterwards????

make a plate like a gasket and then drill lots of little holes in the middle instead of cutting out whole center bolt it in and it should shut it up and gain you some back-pressure

i thought it was a race car? oil changed every couple of outings anyway....

or make the new catch can drain back to the sump....

different turbo will change the load points quite abit on map tuned engines, and will be using those map point to pick the timing... thought about talking to someone like neil airport, hes pretty mazda keen isn't he? your old engine may have had slightly higher compression from having the head planed at some point in its life, or may have had excessive timing causing it to feel good but grenade itself, its amazing how long the b6t's can last on a bad tune (lots of timing or lack of fueling) was that 240ps on the same dyno? did you get your boost situation sorted? sorta sounded like your gate was being held open a mm or two

200ps is pretty much on the limit of a vf10 isn't it? needa goto a t28 to get to 250ps as said above, on the dyno you keep putting timing at it untill it stops making power or knocks, the tuner prob did this, and reached the limit of the vf10...

this sums it up /\ /\ and heres some leaf sprung drifting in nz Pc0CdRvKnQY

yea i've got a build thread on here with a couple of my old carby 4/5k setups edit: here you go... http://www.oldschool.co.nz/phpbb/viewtopic.php?f=17&t=5129

at your new desired "low" height you need to measure how much travel you have before you hit the bump stops, this needs to be at least about 35mm for FIRM spings, once you know this you can work backwards to see where you've gone wrong... if there is no clearance then you will not pass the cert anyway, in which case you need to shorten the strut casing and put a shorter bodied shock insert in, (then while your looking for a shock to suit you can get one with a shorter rod so also keeps your springs captive) what spring rates you running? cause i'd say anything over ~280pd will require keeper springs or you will not have enough droop to pass cert then once you've got it sitting low low, then you need to address the horrible angle all your ball-jhoints are going to be sitting at, i dunno what is available in the way of roll center adjusters for escorts but i'd say there's something available out there happy chassis grinding oh and d1 mule, its suspension you should measure at least 3 times

me with a trailer, a mate with a trailer and i think wez with a trailer will be heading down bout 6pm thursday... (then prob do a all nighter finishing the cars ) think i got a spare seat in the van, if someones stuck in aucks

i used a mg montego factory turbo-carb for blow-through, was mint, easish to tune and the fueling was mint... i thought the spring in the hat is a different rate in the turbo carbs??? and has a skinny needle, never checked if the main jet was the same, you also need the (low pressure)rising rate reg, a higher pressure fuel pump (EFI one run through a ballast to try and slow it down) and add a return line the only real problem is the spark control... without this you end up with a compromise that slowly wears out the engine (ie locked dissy) also the weirdo box on the front helped HEAPS with drive-ability circa 2006ish

yea pics from all sides will help identify it

compound turbos x4 will get your airflow where it needs to be, after that your gonna need a shitload of e85 and NOS, and a sprinkle of fairy dust to hold it all together

it is quite hard to grasp until you see it in your garage man... all the stuff/supplies scattered around distract from the main photo, hopefully in a few weeks it'll be back on the ground and able to get some nice clean driveway shots