drftnmaz

/\ this! something heavier from p-a-p trimmed till height suits... dunno bout chamberlain's but snell springs (in aucks) is around $250 for a pair of custom springs

G series also in the aristo's etc as far as i can tell, so can buy trd for about ~$1200 at trade from toyota

i'd say corrosion inside the servo, or wires to it, or where it attached to circuit board in main controller, start inspecting that part of the system... **im no expert but spent many years fixing machines i shouldn't be touching

SAS in auckland are pretty good at matching up random ball-joints, there prices are all over the show so luck of the draw and it seems the have a christchurch branch aswell http://www.sasgroupautoparts.com/sas-branches.html

im pretty sure you can upgrade to G series head and stuff but the sub-frame is harder to find... altessa lsd's are only really good if you have lots of suspension travel, if its stiff and going to un-load(lift) one wheel sometimes then torsen diffs are not much use... however there are a few options for decent clutch plate lsd's around...

that guy cam vernon in d1 rookie runs a rb29 custom mix made by e+h, so there must be some interesting combos able to be done to get a good balanced mix of torque+revs for the RB's.... i'd fully rock a r32/33 with a sr20DE+T, fuck sr20DET motors are boring to drive, need more compression to make usable power so royce is it a 30e motor or going twin-cam?

offset dowel

looks like im sorted, os wins again!

cheers ryan! yea im all about the cars, and have a healthy hate for money and greedy people

i no longer have any workshop hookups so and looking for a friendly shop that won't charge the world and will help out a car-crazy idiot with my random machining needs (or even better let me use there mill and lathe for beer bribes) happy to pay as required but not stupid money, so really they need to be into cars would prefer south auckland, like outahuhu or onehunga, but can travel if i have to, so anyone know someone/place suited?

you don't wanna to mix metals in the same gun/liner, small particles are always left over and stuff your future welds, wenever i have used alloy mig (not a fan btw, other than taking) we have had two separate handle/gun/liner, that and having to buy argon just makes it uneconomical IMO s/s works sweet with argosheild, haven't tried it with alloy, but judging by the difference in welds it won't work the best EDIT: confirmed above its a no-go

or just leave as is and keep enjoying it until chassis rails finally wear through? They already have i believe yea but seems to be holding together fine so keep thrashing it when it comes to drifting money should never be spent on anything that isn't actually required

/\ this

will work, unless you have a late 4k with D dish pistons, but if you have flat top pistons then they are much the same, give or take small compression changes, you never know how much has been skimmed off it over its life anyway some of the 3k's have a early weird valve seal, so that may look different but still works fine

or just leave as is and keep enjoying it until chassis rails finally wear through?

use gearbox oil? 75/90

yea journal bearing turbos just need a constant trickle to give the bearings a film to run on, and BB turbos only need a constant drip to keep them lubed in race cars where you have high oil pressure you would normally fit a restrictor at the feed from the block and then a gauge in the line to check it doesn't go really high with sustained high rev's, then check on the dyno, and fit a smaller or multiple restrictors reducing the flow and altering the pressure i killed a hks t28 turbo on one of my early engines, i went from a factory t28 BB to a hks BB, thinking the restrictor would be in the line (and seeing the 2mm one in the banjo) i thought it would be sweet, 700k's later dead turbo, only to find out when nissan got garrett to produce the t28 they requested the restrictor be fitted on the inlet of the turbo, however hks did not stipulate this and requires external 1mm restrictor, im still sour about that turbo!! damn you HKS!

normal restrictors are 2mm for journal bearings and 1mm for ball bearing, it is often drilled into part of one of the banjo's(or bolts) or built into the oil inlet of the turbo

just man up and use bundy, its a mind-fuck making fuel lines, but once its done you never have to worry again, just go 3/8" all the way in my experience when you run a smaller return line you end up with fuel pressure in the rail creeping up the when the car is turned off and pump is running because you cannot return enough fuel to the tank when the engine is using little or no fuel, unless you have a crap pump, and a genuine 044 is a pretty mean pump (there are lots of fakes out there tho!)

every 300mm is the legal requirement as far as i remember and you can't cert copper tubing, only copper-nikel, copper work hardens and cracks, hence why the factory use bundy tubing

not with p/s tho????

delco hacking would be the way to go, but you need to read & learn lots tho! that forum has it all if you have a spare 100hours then you can fit one of there real-time chip's and usb board in your factory computer, then plug usb straight into laptop for real time tuning as you drive/load it, also lets you log the wideband for quick and easy tuning, i did a twin-turbo 350chev with corvette efi manifold a while back... (stupid customer since had a kid and gave up on it tho) however the computer still has all it factory functions so you have about 3 pages of stuff you can tweak to get it all working smoothly so is abit of a mind-fuck at first

sweet trick!

i guess im one of those dodgy drift boys.... but i weld cast suspension biits all the time as a job, do ~3 sets a week and have tested them through fairly extreme conditions (i snapped a strut +3 other arms & steering rack in a crash a few weeks ago) but steering arms i had welded up didn't move, they were one of the few bits i didn't have to replace to get back out on the track i would recommend using a mig welder, its far too easy to make a good looking poor weld with a tig and have seen other peoples break before... (if you must use a tig then use appropriate type of filler rods) the other important thing is the design, often you can make the parts stronger than before you started with careful placements and extra weld, and as said above V each bit before welding is fairly crucial EDIT: for track only cars....

ls1 is sweet option, but i don't see it happening for 4g, and you'd be prety-much stuck with a auto *shudder*