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yours is one of the builds i keep reading, its such an oddball little car. and rare as fuck. FINISH IT!!!!! that is all.

Nice work on the diff. Are those Dynas 5 or 6 stud?

Been looking forward to pics of this. Cool car, just needs low. What are the wheels you've got on it now?

Also note that the beams sump has internal oil galleries and a pressure regulating valve. Makes custom sumps that much more difficult. A mate welded up an alloy one for mine though, and we're just running the pressure regulator externally. Not sure if all beams are like this, I just know mine was. Altezza blacktop. Cheers Matt

Fuck, sorry man. Can't tell in your pics and I just assumed it was a single cab. His trays are both single cab. Uz's are pretty doable, just need to use log manifolds. Car tune company in Hams sells mounts but they're a little pricey. I'd do my own or get someone local, they're not hard.

Hiluxes are awesome. Good choice. S2000 would be mega win. Even as much as I don't like inter marque swaps. Where you live? I know someone in the BOP who's got a couple of trays, both have rust and need work but it's pretty damn hard to find a tray for 4th gen hiluxes these days Cheers Matt

I've had an 18rg on 22r hilux mounts, 21r's are the same aren't they? Remembering that it's the chassis mounting points that matter for this, not the block. Cheers Matt

Hilux chassis is pretty much the same from 83 - 04, even the earlier stuff like yours only had different front suspension. Uz fits nicely, you can buy off the shelf aftermarket engine mounts (pretty sure for R engines, might be for Y) from the cartune company in Hamilton (little bit pricey) or make your own pretty easy. Log manifolds are generally used because of having to go past the chassis rails, I don't think there's room for anything decent. I've got a mate who has done quite a few of these conversions, factor about 10k with a computer and manual swap if you can do a lot of the work yourself, although that's non vvti. Should get cheaper if you stick to auto and factory computer although there's still about $1500 in modifying the loom unless you can sort it yourself. It's an awesome swap, looks cool, sounds awesome and goes hard. Cheers Matt

It is real gay, cheap and old. Will try the heat gun, or remove and thinners as the backup plan. Cheers for the replies Matt

Saw a yellow GL like this a couple of nights ago, looked pretty mint but just emphasized how much cooler yours is for being low.

Yeah, I talked to him today and they wouldn't be cheap, a good idea foiled by distance.

Did a quick search, couldn't find anything. Got some purple bubbled up crappy old tints on my crown, tried starting from a corner but its coming off real tough and crumbling rather than peeling. Any easy way to get it off? Cheeeeeeeers Matt

I was round at a friends yesterday and he's got at least one 28 rear quarter sitting around, I'll check condition and whether he wants to sell. Its in Perth though, are you up for shipping? Cheers Matt

I think you've won at NZ Z cars. That is all.

Sweet wagon, sounds like a good score. Wanna sell MS43 to make more space?

Damn that's cool, awesome score!

Start page 2! All the pics won't load for me. Facebook mission instead

Val is looking awesome Clint, Matt K was telling me about his ride in it the other day. He was pretty blown away at how quick it was. Looking forward to seeing Dyno numbers Cheers Matt

Rag is looking awesome Nath, those wheels have got WIN written all over them. How narrow did you get the beam made?

A small tank means there's less volume to fill the bags, it might mean you need to wait for the tank to refill a couple times (which would get quicker with the EDC) to go from on the ground to ride height (as an extreme example). That said a full size wheel well tank would be pretty big. I've seen one before on a Honda airbag setup auction so they're probably available to buy new from somewhere

There's been heaps of spam issues lately and the main forum admin is tied up with his band so no updates to beat it. New rule is to post in the intro thread after you join, just so they know you're not a bot. That would be my guess as to why you got deleted. Just a guess though. What was your user name and I'll see if I can get it sorted?

A lot of cert guys aren't happy with handbrake light switches isolating the bags anymore either, some require a switch on the oil pressure light. So they won't work unless the engine isn't running. Pretty easy to get round still.

That would be the way to go, you could drive it and work out what pressures work best for you, then adjust ride height to suit. Doubling up on adjustability but meh, not like threaded sleeves are that much. I've never looked into bag over strut because none of my vehicles have had struts since I got into air. I'd talk to 4LQQKS or TUF720 off the www.minitruckin.co.nz forums. Both of them bring a bit of gear in, know the right places to deal with, and don't charge shop prices. Organize what you can at this end though, fittings, hose, tanks, wiring etc will be heaps cheaper here in nz (especially trade). I've looked into local valves (SMC from memory, it was ages ago and now im going accuair with linear actuators so never followed it up) that aren't minitruck specific, the only difference I could find was resistance. I can't guarantee they'd work perfectly or be the best option though. You could make up your own switchbox if you wanted, depends on what look you're going for really, and how handy you are at wiring. Cheers Matt

Fuck, missed reading the last page before I posted that. Bit more research involved in setting up for racing, basically as you change the pressure/height you're changing the spring rate too. I'd work out what rate you want, work out what pressure you need for that rate (I'd need to study up the maths but it's not rocket science), then get the bag at that pressure at the ride height you want for racing. Might mean it doesn't lay out (I'd be surprised) or doesn't go that high (more likely but still doubtful) but would make for some pretty sweet easily adjustable race car type handling. Do it!

3/8 will be heaps, You can also run reducers on 1/2 stuff. These are pretty much the 2 sizes catered for, there would be a lot less pissing around sticking to one of these. 1/2 is the "cool" way to go, while you might not care about that it could add value when you're trying to sell and doesn't cost that much more to setup. those bag over strut things are the easy way but you lose heaps of volume so get a much harder ride at the same height. Wishbone fronts are what pretty much all the utes have so no reason it can't be done on cars. Mono leaf is widely considered to be super dodgy. Never actually heard any fail stories but I'd talk to a cert guy before you tried it, I'd be surprised if you could get it legal. I've got a mate with the pressure sensor controller setup in his hilux, he hates it. It takes 3 or 4 hits of the button before it's at the preset height, something to do with the weight still being moving up when the sensor reads it as being at height so it closes the valves then it settles. That's a 3/8 setup too so it's not that quick. He wishes he shelled out the extra for the linear actuators. Or just gauges and a switchbox. Tds are a bit of a rip but they do sell top quality gear, backed by a guarantee. That said you can get the same gear off trademe a lot cheaper. I paid $180 a bag for Slam Specialities SS6's. Which is about as good as it gets. Talk to anyone who knows a bit about air suspension, they'll all say if you do it cheap you'll just end up redoing it. The 6 at the end of SS6 is the size, 6 would be perfect for most small cars, minitrucks usually use them in the front and 7's in the back. I don't know the dimensions but it'd be pretty easy to find out. If you're gonna get truck tanks (which I am) then pay the extra for alloy. That's why they're expensive. Steel rust out from the inside (water traps help) and cause a shit load of problems with blocking valves. Electric compressors have come a long way. Look into Air Zenith OB2's. 100% duty cycle fucking rules! Still never gonna be as quick as an EDC though. Mounting them properly makes a shitload of difference too. Panel steel, rubber mounted or not is gonna vibrate. Get it on the chassis if you can or make up some good solid mounting points. Yorks aren't the be all and end all. There's other options that don't need oilers, 4wd forums are the best place to look. Way too much engine bay real estate for one of those antiques. Now that info comes from years and years of internet/magazine research, a shit load of involvement in the nz minitruck scene, helping build my own truck and helping out on others, and spending way too much time in garages and carparks just checking stuff out and seeing how they work. Cheers Matt