peteretep

I used a program ages ago, but it didn’t really have the correct symbols and wouldn’t let me make new features, so I drew what I wanted in draftsight, which is a program that can draw lines or whatever symbols you want In the end I ditched the whole thing and had a single sheet of paper which described what each fuse was used for, this was when I rewired my car

How else will I know how thick the metal is in a steering wheel? Or what diameter the shaft is on an alternator, I dont care that it made the alternator unusable. They'll just replace the car with another soon enough car wreckers in onehunga seem to catch fire once a year piercing fuel tanks

I think the rules are in the nz car constructors manual, from very vague memory, the pedal needed a ratio of 3:1 with a booster, or 6:1 without a booster. Get the manual and have a look though. I removed the booster on my escort and fitted a landrover master cylinder which had a different piston size with a slightly modified pedal initially, and it juuust past cert. The brakes were OK but not amazing. Now I have made a bias pedal box and the brakes are legit

I would say that for my stuff, I am going for lowest price point, which is also where most of OS is aiming. If you want to pay the cost then you can be the boss As an example, we had these water cut, then dimples machined, folded, then bead blasted. The main support for the stairs is one peice 50mm stainless and the steps are 20mm stainless. The finish was immaculate, but supplied to us was about $40k

Speed and nozzle size (it should be selected based on the job, and not just used as a one size fits all) I think, its where lots of skill comes into cutting plate. TBH I have stopped getting things watercut in general for work because of the finishing work required to get the parts to an acceptable finish. As an example, a 10mm ali plate that I was getting watercut cost me $50, but the finish was not that great and took someone an hour to fiddle with to get it looking good. I now get that part machined for $150 and it can be welded as soon as it arrives to the workshop and all dimensions are perfect. For something like this, your time is free so you can save $100

Was the $11 one Bluetooth or wired?

Speaking of OBD2 scanners, is there any difference between them? I bought 3 bluetooth ones with varying results, they often seemed to drop connection but occasionally they would lock on. These were all cheap ones, maybe $10-$25 each. Maybe it was the apps I was using to connect, or maybe some android issue? My P10 primera had a port, but I think it wasn't actually OBD2, it just had the same plug

1/2 would be better, but I'm sure it wouldn't matter. 3/8 fittings are probably cheaper

one stop cutting shop in Auckland is pretty well priced, I’m sure courier costs for something like that aren’t too much. I would imagine about $50-60 total delivered

There is quite a lot of these in France, they look rad, 75cc version would be great

Whenever I talk to people at work regarding this, they always push me towards urethanes, especially when pils are concerned. Plus Plastics and Hammerking are our typical suppliers/do our molds. I would give them a call, they are both fairly helpful Otherwise, if you wanted to talk to someone about rubber, we used to use Skellerup for rubber stuff

Photocopying wont work too well with an engine block like the above, because it aint flat. But photocopying things can be OK, but make sure to double check, I have used photocopiers that scale differently in X and Y axis.

You will need a few measuring tools, but some verniers will be the most useful. In general when I measure something like this, I take multiple measurements of the same feature, to try triangulate the location.You want to measure centre to centre, but it can be hard to find the centre, the tapped holes will all have the same inside diameter (enough for clearance hole to cover discrepancy), so you can measure minimum measurement (or inside to inside of circles) then add the diameter to get the centre distance. And try to model the part while sitting right next to it, so you can take more measurements as you require, it will take alot of measurements to get good detail. Once you get a reasonable idea on locations of things, you can print out your drawing and overlay it to compare drawing and reality. Take some measurements to make sure your print is to scale first though, but I have found most printers are pretty good for scale. Can use the hammer trick to cut/hammer out paper on the edges to compare the shape The bolt holes don't need to be super accurate, I would worry more about the details at the crank areas for locating the plate. Those baffle plates would need to be pretty cheap for you not to make it yourself if you have a spare couple of hours. I had a similar sized/detailed plate laser cut from 304 SS, 1.5mm thick for $11.50. More holes in a laser cut plate adds virtually costs no extra, you are pretty much paying a small fee for cutting + cost of material(which is the biggest cost)

I run one of these steel filtered type things before my efi pump, and my tank doesn't have a strainer https://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/car-parts-accessories/performance/fuel-systems/auction-1592170146.htm?rsqid=b7ca289a8e49496199887c393377b348

oh man, I think the wajax had something like a 12mm carb on it, and i thought a 19mm carb was almost too big. LOL at 28mm being a good size

Sounds about exactly the place my old man described

Was talking to my old man today, he and a couple of others helped an old dude out that got stuck on 42 traverse this weekend. He was by himself and had a long wheel base patrol, took 4 guys, 3 hours to get him moving again, that was after he had walked 10km along the track trying to find someone to help. Lucky my dad is pro with ropes and pulleys, so were able to drag his truck out of the bush on the side of the track as no way the quad bikes would have pulled the truck out by themselves

Did you see there is a big hole in your bellhousing, I dont know if you saw it. It might be puckaroo

I have heard people talking about that area being shut to 4x4's many times over the last 20 years, but I never seen it actually closed. Always just rumours

I vent these to a catch can that drains back to the sump, so doesn’t go back into the intake

On my escort, according to the manual when you set up the clutch cable, there should be about 7-8mm travel in the cable between release bearing and fingers. This would equate to 3-4mm actual distance between release bearing and clutch fingers due to clutch arm pivot. That’s pretty old tech though, so could be different in more modern stuff

Where is that bungthat you missed? I wonder if I have the same issue, I hadn’t considered that to be a problem. Its behind the timing cover in line with the oil pressure port?

Those different sized engine mounts are normal, for them up one way and the engine will sit way on the piss, so it’s pretty obvious those round ones were originally used on the pinto, but have since been used on heaps of setups including crossflows because it’s a simple shape

Spending 10 minutes with some rubber doesn't sound so bad now eh. Actually just thinking about it, using part of a seatbelt would probably work really well

Thats basically what I tried before, but it moves too much for the thick stuff to be flexible long term I have also never seen one of those things for sale, they are just always crusty when you look under cars