JustHarry

I've had issues with my down pipe cracking too. Have welded flat bar down it to hopefully hold it together. I also see over 700 degrees pretty regularly. I also cant get a flexi until it's near the chassis due to space constraints witch will be half my problem as there is a lot of weight hanging off it

Doesnt look out of the ordinary Have done a few 1kz heads now they all have fucked injectors which leads to the heads dieing Its probably just burning a little oil and the injector seal is probably shit by this point so some oil accumulates in that area . Wang some remanufactured injectors and some new glow plugs from toyota . And with a new head itll be fine. Have you got a kiwi head for it? Ive been running a complete kiwi head for almost 30k on my kzj78 apparently the cams and followers arnt as good as OG toyota but I havnt had an issue yet Depending how many kms your valves may be worn so just swapping all your valve gear into a new head might not work. Disclaimer im not a mechanic

Cant be less suitable than a honda spacy....

@holdenman @governorsam @h4nd /who ever else has bikes I was gonna take the fj1200 if the weather's nice The weka pass waikari valley rd is a good one on a fast bike

Put a bp3es in it

@h4nd What plug is in it?

Who wants to go for a drive on sunday 26th? Leave town around 1030/11ish depending on destination Will head north either to cheviot or greatvelley pub via waikari. Any preference from whoever might attend?

Didnt take many pics

What's changed from when it worked?

Keen on alloy wheels..

What time you want to leave? Well be leaving my place about 415pm

Itll stop leaking soon

By buying extra beers

Hard to tell if it's just the under seal being a bit shit or actually rotten. But there looks to be issues with the front of the sil behind the gaurd.

@h4nd if you keep having plug fouling issues put a hotter plug in it Its obvious to cold

A paper gasket... Was good enough for the factory.

That's it

Old thread dredge but I got a warehouse 30$ spec thing that goes on the ciggy lihter and broadcasts a fm station. Put in @- i5oogt - gen 4 paj with Rockford sound system in it and its equally as good sound as the full android system in my e39 wagon /ling

@DoBro Jesus

A quick google suggest deemaxx are now cm? Am running cm brakes and hubs on a car trialer. I belive the also do a "marine" version for seals etc

Personally I would get a spray rust converter like brunox or dintroll rc900 Clean it best you can and scrap away loose paint and rust. Dont ger carried away trying to strip paint back. Just loose stuff Spray the seam and seal it up. Keep the spray small if you can so it's not a big messy area. I've got a small tube ,like the cavity wax cans have, pushed into a cap for doing exactly that with spray can rust converter Then chuck some cavity wax over for good measure. It's not a "fix" it's a bandaid that will hold back the rust for a wee while longer

Is it covering a repair? Or rust Cavity wax isnt a rust converter. Also anything is better than nothing. If you can spray some zinc paint rattle can into the cavity as much as possible. Then when that's dry cavity wax over top and you'll be fine

Not sure where you mean exactly. But cavity was isnt water soluble or it wouldnt work. Just let it dry properly according to manufacturer's instructions So it would probably do what you want to do

Clean repairs to bare steel Epoxy over bare steel Fill Prime Then color Or if your gonna do the while job in a day or two or I assume this is the marina so the rest of the car isnt exactly show car quality. Just fill over bare steel and prime over top. Auto filler is actually ment to be on bare steel The key is that it's all porous and soaks moisture up from the air if left Dont fill over anything from a rattle can. You'll have a bad time

@yetchh just need a patch welded on it or something? I'll get my bottle refilled and I can do it