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Lord Gruntfuttock

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Everything posted by Lord Gruntfuttock

  1. Lord Gruntfuttock
    The concourse restoration guys go to great pains to reproduce factory orange peel...
  2. Lord Gruntfuttock
    Forgot a shifter linkage bracket bolted up to the trans pan. The original had an L shaped spacer plate on the thin steel pan... I won't need that with the thicker alloy flange, but the bracket fouled the welds on the alloy pan, so I filed some off it... And fits ok... It looked heaps thicker and I was worried it would throw the alignment out, but was only 3mm more than the original so should be fine... And realised I'd left the engine plate and flywheel off, so lifted it off the stand, was happy to do this as I'd forgotten to grease the tube and it was a bastard to rotate... And scrubbed the surface rust off the plate... And it cleaned up nice... So flywheel and plate back on, pretty much ready to mate up to trans when things are torqued up...
  3. Lord Gruntfuttock
    That's my understanding. 2 pack epoxy on bare steel, sticks like shit to a shovel and seals it, then fillers etc...
  4. Lord Gruntfuttock
    Oh I bought an air one off Ali yonks ago too, and have been filing by hand like a chump. Forgot I had it....
  5. Lord Gruntfuttock
    Just read whole build thread. Great stuff. Had an HQ ute while at uni, such nostalgia...
  6. Lord Gruntfuttock
    The fearsome beast snapper was a TC100. Looking good for CT90 tho...
  7. Lord Gruntfuttock
    Tentatively interested...
  8. Lord Gruntfuttock
    Yep real progress, should be good for summer cruising hopefully...
  9. Lord Gruntfuttock
    Loving it in the new garage, gets beaut sun in the morning, so encouraging to get into things... Put the cover back on the diff, still got pinion seal to install... And wheeled trans out in the sun, dropped the pan and uh-oh. Sort of expected some debris, but not a loose bolt...? Pretty sure it came from here after googling images of C4's... So carried on replacing filter, forgot about the spring and plunger under it but caught them ok... and cleaned things up and replaced that bolt... Shiny new bits to fix the leaky pan, sweet... And cos the alloy pan is deeper you need a deep pan filter. Nice thick reusable gasket... I did measure things, but looks right... Was about here a duck turned up to help... And done... Fitted a new mount as well... So trans should be good to go, there was a bit of gunk and a few metal shavings that bothered me, but as it costs a couple of grand to get a trans refurbished I'll just hope a new filter and fresh fluid will be ok. Never had any issues (apart from blowing a torque converter during a burnout) and interweb consensus is bits in the pan are normal, so we'll see...
  10. Lord Gruntfuttock
    If this pic had boobs it'd be damn near perfect...
  11. Lord Gruntfuttock
    Morgan cycle-car...
  12. Lord Gruntfuttock
    Nah this is Old School. Doing dumb things with old gear is great. I reckon you're way overcarbed but interested to see how you get on...
  13. Lord Gruntfuttock
    Sorted out a lot of bits I need for the next stages, good to find most of them and get things sorted. Crawled under the back end for a look at the leaky diff... I know the brake lines need replaced, that'll happen as soon as the wheel alignment is done. Also dragged the trans into the garage and inspected it, noticed the rear mount was perished so ordered another one, pretty common item, carried in SCA and Repco... And pulled the diff cover off for a cleanup. Needs cleaned, painted and dents taken out of rim... After wire brushing the cover, bolts and drain plug, I just brush painted everything with durepox, came out ok really with a thick mix, will trade again, easier than setting up the spray gun... So I'll put that together and fit new front seal when things are dry...
  14. Lord Gruntfuttock
    I bought 64 and 66 jets for a warmed up 302. Not sure how small you can go with a 600...
  15. Lord Gruntfuttock
    Moved my OS car over the weekend. Not under it's own power of course... Got it here on my own till I needed assistance... To push into its new home, slope of drive was too much... And there's a gap in the man shed now I will fill with tools/bikes and maybe a sofa. Be nice to able to walk in here now without climbing over stuff So nearly ready to install engine again. Next step is finding all the bits and pieces (crossmember, bolts, engine mounts etc) and putting trans together for mating up...
  16. Lord Gruntfuttock
    Can you change main jets or is it a metering block? I changed mine so could alter jets, was cheap enough kit. Been a while since I twiddled... [Edit] yeah same question runamuck asked...
  17. Lord Gruntfuttock
    pics of CT...
  18. Lord Gruntfuttock
    Yeah front two mounting holes of footpeg mounts go through rear two holes of bash plate...
  19. Lord Gruntfuttock
    The chrome bars around the engine, with the bash plate underneath? Think they attach underneath with the footpeg bolts. Will see if I can find a pic...
  20. Lord Gruntfuttock
    What engine is in this one...?
  21. Lord Gruntfuttock
    Mate had one. Put a 350 in it, remember it bellying badly hooning over a railway line and ripping the fuel tank open...
  22. Lord Gruntfuttock
    Sort of sad it's losing it's heart. Offset by the thought of a rotary Hunter...
  23. Lord Gruntfuttock
    Up early to get some niggling things done, quite nice ticking things off... and a few things to tidy up, but she's on 4 wheels for the first time in 3 years... Still got a noise from the dust shield to sort, brakes to install properly, and steering tie rods to align but that can wait till it's in the other shed. Plan is to put this in house garage and shift the bikes out to my man-shed, might even get a couch out there if space allows, will be next weekends job... Will need some manpower to shift it, but the other garage has a large concrete driveway so will be easier to fill the big hole in the engine bay using the crane.
  24. Lord Gruntfuttock
    Got first spring in the other night, but wasn't happy with how it sat so pulled it and rotated it against the anti rotation tab better. Bloody easy job using the old impact driver on the spring compressors... And sitting much better... And torqued up the ball joints, needed a hardened washer to space the split pin correctly in the castellated nut. Also did some research on which way to align the pin, such a Barry-argument minefield. Turns out this way is the one used by the aviation industry (as opposed to bending them round the side of the nut), plus it is easier when there are clearance issues, but really doesn't make too much difference... And driver's side done, and new shock in, also torqued and pinned suspension rod arms etc. This is the easy side as the other one is against the shed wall... Discovered the new tie-rods weren't painted so painted them black like all other suspension bits, will install them tomorrow... And I'm over the cheap fittings that come with supplied gear, spring washers chewed out at only around 25 ft-lbs. replaced them with decent stainless ones... And installed new rotors. I'd packed the bearings 3 yrs ago but that had gone hard, so cleaned them out with solvent and repacked them. I'm not fitting the brake pads yet as I have to push the car into the other shed and new pads will probably rub. I just loosely bolted the calipers in position till it's moved... And repeated the job on the other side, all went ok but the rotor is rubbing on the dust shield so I'll pull it tomorrow and bend the shield back into place... So a big day, and frustratingly short of getting it mobile, should get there tomorrow though...
  25. Lord Gruntfuttock
    Adjusted valve lash on the weekend, rotated each pushrod till I just felt resistance, then 1/2 turn more and locked them in position. Did the #1 TDC, then 180 deg, then 270 rotate method to do all valves, and went though each cylinder in turn after that rechecking them, seems ok... Then braced myself for looking at the suspension, that had been removed 3 yrs ago and not looked at since (apart from a half hearted attempt at the driver's side). Wasn't too bad, started by scraping out the passenger side wheel well, nearly 50 yrs of accumulated crud made a greasy mess on the floor, swept it up (filled half a bucket) and cleaned with petrol. All the while cramped up against the wall, wish I'd taken a before pic... Had no idea where I'd got to on drivers side so rechecked torque, some bolts were tight, some only done up with fingers. Had a bit of trouble finding torque specs but went with: Top arm pivot bolts - 90 ft-lbs Lower arm pivot - 90 ft-lbs Lower arm to strut rod bolts - 65 ft-lbs Strut rod to under body bracket - 50 ft-lbs Spring saddle to upper arm bolts- 25 ft-lbs Ball joint mounting bolts - 30 ft-lbs And was going to do ball joints to steering knuckle at 80 ft-lbs but the castellated nut screwed past the split pin hole before any torque was applied, so I'll need some hardened washer spacers, will grab some today... I went though old pics and set the suspension strut camber eccentrics, and thread lengths approximately where they were on disassembly, will do the same for the steering tie-rods so hopefully it's driveable before I get it aligned properly. So things are clean, upper and lower arms and strut rods in place and almost ready to put the new springs in... Looking fwd to seeing how these sit...
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