Mickey

Yeah I checked and they’re definitely crags. I’d forgotten about this crag design. I’d been looking for the 6 spoke style for my 4x4 Delica recently but found something a bit different in the end. Yours is gonna look really good. I’m actually a sucker for the retro brown interiors. The gold is nice too.

Just on the off chance you were keen on a bullbar which you may not be as some prefer without but this ones identical to mine and I believe a factory toyota part for these https://www.trademe.co.nz/a/motors/car-parts-accessories/roof-racks-bull-bars/listing/3307155437

Just the 3L V6 from the later model which is nice cos it could almost be factory and definitely doesn’t look out of place. Not sure what the rims are yet but they look good. $4500

Well….. I acquired this today. Actually only 137,000km and the V6 is a certified conversion.

Ok cool, thanks for your feedback. I’m viewing it properly tomorrow morning. I would think it would be less desirable than a diesel one when it comes to resale however if you wanted to Lexus V8 one this would be ideal. I’d rather keep it fairly original.

Speaking of…. I saw this for sale today. It’s a V6 petrol auto. 173,000km. What are they worth?

Totally loving this whole project. Love these old surfs especially with the original old graphics. I shoulda bought the yellow one that came up recently on TM

I rescued a yellow one of these from a scrap yard about a year ago. You get any spares with it? or nuffink? I was just gonna improvise for all the missing bits. Who needs a seat when you can strap a tassled cushion to the fuel tank?

If you want a quality but basic unit then Syntech do one that's just a gun with a hose. You put the end of the hose into your bucket of garnet and sand away. I wouldn't go anywhere near using normal sand for blasting due to the dangers of silicosis. More info here: https://www.cdc.gov/niosh/docs/92-102/ Use garnet which Syntech can supply you also. Comes in sacks in 3 different grades if I remember correctly. Let them know what you're doing and they can advise you on the correct grade. http://www.syntechnz.com/

Depends on how simple the section they're replacing is too and how visible it will be..... Does anyone know what the deal is with Custom Metal Shapers these days? Someone on here mentioned the owner is in prison now!!? Not sure if that's correct.

IMHO if you want good rust repairs you really need to go to a panel shop that specialises in restorations and can actually do some metal shaping. I wouldn't go to your standard collision repair shop for rust repair on a classic car. Same for Just Rust, they're really just about doing you some quick patches to pass your WOF.

Perhaps this would be of use to you given the recent engine troubles. Otherwise someone else may be interested? https://www.facebook.com/eastsideautorecyclers/?fref=ts

Always loved these and have been wanting to get one myself. How are you for parts? I just found 1 in a wrecking yard not far from my house. In fact apparently they have three but I'm yet to have a proper explore. Will keep you posted.

Are those tyres made from marshmallows?

I'm going away for the weekend and leaving shortly but I can pick that shiz up one night next week. Could be monday if it suits him? How long do you need it stored? or are you unsure at this stage?

I can help. Where are they? I'm central........ go to the shore quite often though.

Best thing I've found for keeping whitewalls or White lettering clean is a product called liquid buffer by Tip Top. It's a solvent but designed for use on tyres. Its intended use is for cleaning the inner liner of a tyre when doing a puncture repair.

Thought I should have a ramble on this topic. Have held various tickets including an Ali one so might just clarify a few things: 1. Aluminium MUST be cleaned prior to welding but the predominant reason for this is not to remove dust and dirt but to remove the oxide layer which forms on it naturally which is the reason it doesn't corrode. Cleaning can either be done with IPA or mechanically with a stainless wire brush. The wire brush should be kept in a zip lock bag or plastic container when it's not being used so it doesn't get contaminated. If the brush accidentally gets used on carbon steel then don't use it on Ali again. The reason Ali is almost always CNC router cut such as in Alloy boat production and not lasercut is because the CNC router leaves a nice clean freshly cut edge whereas the laser heavily oxidises the edge which would all need to be cleaned back again to weld. 2. AC balance - You can quite safely probably leave at 50% for what you're doing. This setting is all about how much penetration you get. Some info on why you need an AC Tig for Aluminium: A standard DC Tig for Stainless or mild runs DCEN which means your earth is positive and your electrode (The tungsten in the torch) is negative. When welding Aluminium the oxide layer requires a 'cleaning action' whilst welding which is only achieved if you switch the polarity to DCEP (Negative Earth, positive electrode) The problem with this is that running a positive electrode will melt your electrode away almost instantly hence the reason you have to cycle between polarities which is what AC does. It cycles between DCEN and DCEP so the DCEP part of the cycle achieves the desired cleaning action of the oxide layer while the DCEN part of the cycle prevents your tungsten getting hot enough to melt away. Some more info on AC Balance control: http://www.millerwelds.com/resources/articles/Understanding-AC-TIG-GTAW-Balance-Control/ 3. Tungsten grinding - Never grind from side on if you can avoid it, it tends to cause arc wander. Your grind marks should follow the same direction as the length of the Tungsten. For DC TIG (Stainless and Mild) grind to a sharp point. The length of the point should be twice the width of the tungsten you're using and the sharp tip knocked off ever so slightly. If you leave it super sharp at the point it can result in a small piece of tungsten melting off and falling into your weld which causes a tungsten inclusion and would fail an Xray test. If you don't knock the point of it's not a big deal, many people don't do this. For AC Tig (Alloy) grind the tip at a 45 degree angle but leave a flat spot on the end the same length as the angle section. There are numerous ways to 'ball' the tungsten but this is not at all critical, just grind as above and start welding. Having a clean tungsten is critical. If you contaminate it with the filler rod or in the weld pool you MUST regrind it. Gas Flow- TOO MUCH GAS WILL INTRODUCE POROSITY INTO YOUR WELD. More is not better. Should be roughly 8-10Lmin. A few other things: Use the correct cutting and grinding discs for Ali which won't contaminate the material and introduce contaminants into the weld. When finishing the weld don't back off the pedal too suddenly. Taper it back gently. Important for Ali or you get crater cracks which can spread down the length of your weld. Torch angle is important! NEVER EVER use brake cleaner or anything with chlorine to clean any metal prior to welding!!!!! It creates phosgene gas and can kill you very very quickly. If it doesn't kill you it'll FUCK you up and leave you with permanent health problems.

Machine part welding would definitely be the place to go if you want something like that repaired whether that means welding and machining or just remaking the shaft altogether. They'd be able to advise you on the best option in regards to cost and longevity.

The Miller helmets are actually Otos helmets but branded with Miller's logo. Otos is a Korean company and the quality of the helmets is very very good in every aspect including comfort and adjustability and of course the lens itself. I have an Otos Chameleon and despite having a new speedglas with a flip up grind shield I still use the Otos heaps. Anyway if you google Otos chameleon or Otos digital ace you can get some more info on them. Not sure if they're any cheaper without the miller logo but its a good way to avoid all the skulls and flames unless of course you're into that. Pretty sure arc welding supplies in hamilton stock them and Tradezone do also. Oh and one other important thing to consider also is that the Miller/Otos replacement front lens covers are cheap (roughly $4ea) and readily available. Speedglas one's can set you back $30ea in NZ which isnt great if you're doing a lot of stick or flux core.