igor

How has no-one said, "do a skid cunt", yet? Do a skid cunt. Also video please.

Used to get a fairly consistent 10 mpg equivalent out of a TK Bedford 214 on lpg. 16" wheels, 2.7 tonne tare weight, 6.5 tonne GVM. Best I ever got out of my EN Civic with Hondamatic was 38 mpg but I always drove it hard. Sure 40 mpg would have been achievable if I'd been kinder to it. Austin 1300 used to get 33 mpg driven balls out everywhere. XC wags with 4.1 and three on the tree was pretty consistent on 22 mpg. Torque for Africa though. I'd drive from Lookout Point in Dunners to Kaitangata without touching the brake or shifting out of top gear. My first EA wags (four speed auto) did Whangarei to Porirua (802 km) on 78 litres being near enough to 29 mpg. Same car went from Romahapa to Gore with the reserve light on and took 82 litres to fill it up.

Just noticed how old this thread is.

Must remember that one.

12" Starlet wheels also fit BMC ADO16s. BG Laser/323 are the same stud pattern as EN Civic. The Civic rims won't fit over the disc brakes on the front of the Laser but are okay over the drums on the back. Laser rims don't fit properly on the Civic cos the hole in the middle is too small but they are okay for moving cars around in the yard. I don't have any actual numbers cos I've never measured them.

Uncle Jim was a sniper. He's somewhere in the big military cemetery at Ypres.

Loving this project already UJ.

Sounds like some sort of farm implement thing.

Nothing wrong with axminster carpet.

How about a hairy pig skin for the seat?

I first read that as handjob.

Is there any other way to drive them?

My XC wags has air shocks. I'm assuming they were fitted to prevent or at least limit arse dragging when towing as the guy I got it from used it tow his race car transporter. Took me years to even notice the valve for them. Without knowing a whole lot about them I'd be inclined to agree with Speeno and go for harder springs.

Def get a Haynes manual. I got one for my first Mini in the early '80s and I've since found it helpful on two other Minis, 3 1300s, and an Allegro. Many things are the same or close enough to it on all of them.

Of course you know that old cars have a manual choke. Easy thing to miss if you've never had an old car before.

When my 1300 had an issue with fuel starvation due to fucked old hoses allowing it to suck air instead of petrol my son and I got it home with him reaching out the passenger window and holding up a lawnmower tank gravity feeding directly to the carb. You could try something similar to at least get the thing running. It might help to eliminate some of the potential faults.

1966 Australian Wheels Magazine car of the year was.... wait for it... the wonderful.... Morris 1100!

Later ADO16s came standard with the spin on filter I think. My '75 Austin had one and it hadn't had many owners when I bought it (in the late '80s before they were retro and cool) so I'm assuming it was standard. I have to admit to forgetting to remove the old seal ring when replacing the spin on filter once. Two seal rings together do not seal very well. Fortunately I noticed straight away and had another car to use to go and borrow a filter wrench to unscrew the new filter instead of hammering a screwdriver through it.

Yeah. Look once, see shitbox, look twice, gone. Funny how people don't expect to see roughish old cars go fast.

Just read this whole thread. Keep up the good work. I'm a Falcon driver but I don't mind the look of the VL Commie. Borrowed a V8 one off my Dr once to pull a heavy tandem axle transporter. Went bloody well. I was most impressed with it. Pulled 80-130 in fifth gear to pass a slow car like the trailer wasn't even there. Clutch was mega heavy, race spec gearbox felt clunky, and the cam was so wild it wouldn't do 50 in fourth gear so second and third round town but I could easily live with that for the V8 coolness factor.

Nice. Looks like a rarity. What's the interior like? Still good?

Cut the rivets off with a cold chisel and seperated the two halves of the bonnet then removed the hinge pin with the use of lots of crc, vice grips, and a pipe spanner as well as a claw hammer and a big drift punch.

Thought I'd do a bit of the easy stuff so took the bonnet into the workshop to bash the lumps out of it and make it actually open and shut properly. Note the pop rivets where some rough bastard has broken it and joined it back together crooked.

Had a go at fixing the electric start a while back too. Put a battery in and tried to crank it over. No go. Knew it should at least crank over as we had previously had it cranking and trying to start with jumper leads off our real farmer mate's Ford 6610. Took the starter motor off and when I turned it over rusty brown water came out. Hmm. That's what I get for leaving the bonnet off. Stripped down starter motor and cleaned parts. Never done this before. Figured I couldn't fuck it up any more than it already was so being too tight and too broke to pay someone else I had a go anyway. Discovered one of the carbon brush springs had half dissolved in the aforementioned water. Sorry no pics. Dunno where the camera was that day. Looked only slightly better than the above pics of the horn. Reassembled and refitted starter motor complete with dodgy broken spring and put jumper leads across it. It cranked over but did not start. I'm guessing fuel starvation. It's had issues with that several times before. Most of the time cleaning the filter gauze on the fuel pump and bleeding the air bubbles out has made it go again. I've drained the tank and cleaned it out as much as I can and blown the filter cartridge out with air pressure even though it looked like a newish one but I'm still thinking there is a fuel supply problem. Will replace the filter cartridge when I can. I'm hoping it hasn't sucked some crap into the injector pump cos I'm not keen to fuck with that myself and getting a pro to check it sounds expensive.

I have been doing a bit of work on this again of late. I think I have found why the horn doesn't work.