Bangbug

Heat fucks up brake drums.... Well that's new. I thought they worked on friction. I suggest both ideas.

bring the heat

See what makes a difference with your terminal voltages. We're sick people and would welcome knowing what worked for you

I'm going to drink a beer to that rotisserie effort. I'd like to do the same but I'll break something.... oh and hoist. Fucking great effort!!!!!!

Economy is a bugger. Dyno's are your friend but I haven't got near one yet, waiting till the turbo, which I've been super slack about. I've got a "lean cruise" function on the lunk. I think I picked about 16.5:1 and it works at set manifold/tp %'s and a delay before starting up of 2 seconds or something. I fecked about with it a little until I could see it start working and nothing changed, no noticeable drop in torque/speed and my throttle position was the same. So same speed with less fuel = economy I guess. With no knock detection I didn't touch the timing tables and they're all "safe". I think on a dyno you can do these things and feck about with ratio until you see a drop off in torque, and then do it with timing as well

I am but I'm snowed the fuck under Oh and if I get home I have a wire cup that is getting abused on the underside of the merc that I shouldn't disappoint. But if a miracle happens I'll PM you The Light Horse had Asahi on tap but they're closed, boo

I was going to write in here how much thousand dollar supercar must HATE himself. But it seems Zebra Dude must LOATH himself. Congratulations, you need the most help on this forum!!! In saying this, what amazing condition this is in! I was at a hill climb last year and there was a bloke with the v8 version and it was pretty awful/amazing/shitheap/brilliant/love/hate but most importantly quick so FTW! Congrats TDS, your therapist will be proud

If mine were moving........

It wasn't tuned yet (just a rich guestimate on guestimate ve and retarded timing) and the 2.2 was a 86hp dog I wonder how many times have hoops been engaged? And how many of those times was it due to dropping a fat skid That'd be interesting from a man in the know! Figure you'd hear a uj getting fucked before a driveshaft let go. (just interested, don't go spare ffs)

Mine did not require them. (just shy of doubling hp) With the turbo it will. My next transplant will. http://www.lvvta.org.nz/documents/infosheets/LVVTA_Info_09-2011_Drive-shaft_Safety_Loop_Requirement_Clarification.pdf

Because trailer hitching points etc get the most wear when they guys jackknife them etc etc so it'd save them money and they'd have another way of forcing all cockies to have a turn around for the tankers. (I think they have to anyway with Fonterror)

//oldschool.co.nz/phpbb/viewtopic.php?f=17&t=23963 Oh the fuck........ //oldschool.co.nz/index.php?/topic/28116-unclejakes-64-fintail-mercedes/?hl=%2Bunclejake+%2Bmercedes Yusssssssssss Holy shit dude, that looks epic!!! Now I'm definitely not doing black, can't both wear the same dress to the party.

That would be fancy! But doable. I'm looking to use ultrasonics for height if I can get suitable accuracy, anyone with an opinion?

Yep. 15s? What bike you got?

Doesnt sound too promising for my attempt at a diy controller! Hahaha.

Great post mickey

I was thinking of certifiers

I'm pretty sure you're a myth

Its why you have a flow METER and a pressure REGULATOR. It's a non-linear relationship Pressure vs Flow. Essentially you could have 100psi "flowing" the nearly the same amount (you can, but through the same aperture is what I speak of) as 50 psi. With welding (I imagine) you need to have different flow rates at pretty much the same psi for different size cups. The psi is there to move it out of the cup, expand in/around the cup and form your shield. (it's pushing against the expansion and gas and shit caused by the welding) The flow will give it the size of the shield (volume your working on). Bigger cup, more shield so more flow but psi (probably) the same as the welding is still the same process at the tip. I don't weld, would really like to. So I'm just making you read this for no reason and seeing how it stacks up mwahahahaha Sheepers, listen to Sheepers, manners often not, panelbeating/painting/welding wisdom very often. Must think I'm a fanboy with all the likes. Oh and your welds are looking good to this noobertus

Golly that's nice. You're "project discussion" links don't seem to be working off the build page. (maybe just me, but FYI)

Rookie speaks sooth

15 degrees from line of suspension travel I'm guessing. That's cool. Thanks for both replies, doable

Shock relocation. Had a look at the regs: (a) be fitted with shock absorbers which are able to satisfactorily control spring energy; and ( where a substantial increase in spring rate occurs, be reinforced as necessary in the areas of the body or chassis or sub-frame structure on which the increased loads being transmitted are likely to cause fracturing or failure. (a) a shock absorber of a compatible stroke length I see they sell brackets for relocation so it must be done so I guess it's down to the certifier being satisfied the geometry is good and they're strong/suitable enough? Currently IRS, diagonal trailing arm, coil spring, subframe mounted to body forward of each wheel and off the rear diff housing. The shock going through the coil, thinking of moving it to the back of the trailing arm and to the channel of the body. More or less the angle of my ute setup. Might have to draw a picture

Is doing upholstery as sexually satisfying as I imagine it to be? Anywho, sprechen sie wheels Throw the os VW logo at it

Also. If you have all the vvti stuff, like a front cut, you'll have all you need for security. This is why I'll be trying to make a "black box" solution when I get to mine The factory ecu and tune is pretty good and controls the auto i'll still be running behind it