Bangbug

It'd be great if you could store woodgas, that'd make life much easier! Perhaps I should put some chemistry wizardry to the cause and give it a crack, unstable gases are usually best burnt pretty quick smart though I suppose. Or since this was done many many moons ago and we now have catalytic converters perhaps physics is the better tool to have a crack at it with. That'd at least get rid of the carbon monoxide which is probably one of the main problems, use up a little HC to convert to H2O (which is already present) and CO2 which is also present.

I think somewhere in there, it says along the lines of "Demonstrated to be to suitable standard to LVVC inspector" or something like that regarding welding. But to be honest, I'd doubt if they're certed welders so that'd odd. Anywho, there are "Certified welders" as they go to school and have learnt and have demonstrated that they can do XYZ welds etc etc. With driveshafts the best idea is take it to a shop, get a receipt and done. Well, I suppose anything structural but in particular driveshafts

Cinema? Don't you mean carpark with a white wall? Or are you saying that nobody here has a double hinge boot lid to project a movie onto a wall and transmit the sound via FM? What kind of car club is this? lol... oh yeah, an OS one in NZ. Well I think I've just come up with another project for the merc, electronic geezers unite! Anyone done a centre console popcorn maker yet? Who has roller skates?

Man you never see rear windows on those! (well I don't) Keep em, keeeeeeeep em! Just a nice door logo would be awesome and anything else I'd say would be pinstriping The van will do the work for drawing attention so keep her pretty clean. If you don't get satisfaction from your local, PM me and I'll help you out. Sorry for the self plug.

Ned, dude, that was awesome. Though for a how to I'm sure we could cut that down somewhat again If you need any help 77 let us know, or better yet do a "so Bangbug and Ned said this works...." thread and we'll help you out (Ned, I've volunteered you).

Cheers Ned, that's the other way Would be nice to have a write up on that too. If anyone has done that, drop your experience in here and perhaps we can combine the thread to have both?

Absolutely correct, good spotting! Thick and thin film surface mounts, I think I started saying thin film in it's place when I was doing some tiny stuff for an ECU. Thanks Llama. Edited

Hi, this is a thread I did over on the Link forums and it went down ok. I've been trying to get it up in tech articles but Gaz no longer runs them and I can't get another admin to let me post in there, it can be transferred if deemed worthy later. So I'll put it here with a bit more info for the layman as opposed to those on the Link forums. You can also drive it with a coil (like from a relay) to step up the voltage but I think that's hoary If we peer review this we can have a pretty good "how to" with a bit of luck. As below: Howdy, Seeing as there is weird info online and not much is clear in regards to driving a high level tacho with a low level signal I figure I'd take mine apart and apply Ohm's Law as I figure it's got to be simple enough surely! 97 Mazda B2200, link atom g4. Background: "High level" tachs are driven from the neg post of the regular coil which can see 200 - 400V which is where the "high level" comes from, it's back EMF from the collapsing primary coil. What we see from a computer and sometimes from an output from an igniter is 0-12V (more or less) and is known as "low level". Now something that takes high voltage to drive, will not drive with low voltage, thankfully they're really only dragging down the current so we can replace the resistor with a little bit of Ohms law to match the new feed voltage. What you will need: Soldering iron and solder. Multimeter. Screwdrivers. New resistor. Here's how I did mine. So I dragged out my tacho You need to see what is + 12V, what is Ground and what is signal from coil. Do this by tracing the ribbons or traces or wires that connect to your tacho. You'll see that they use the traces for +12V and earth for things like lights so you'll be able to figure out which is which there which leaves the other one to be your signal. Now that you've found your signal, check to see what size the resistor is (hopefully there is one and I've not wasted your time). Mine is a through hole resistor which is nice and simple, they may exist in surface mount too but those are easy also, don't be discouraged. You'll want a fine tip on your soldering iron though. So mine is a 42k resistor. That sausage with bands around it and wires out either end. (http://www.digikey.com/~/media/Images/Marketing/Resources/Calculators/resistor-color-chart.jpg?la=en-US if you don't have a resistance tool on your multimeter) Now using Ohms law 200V / 42000 = ~0.005 amps. (guessed at 200V, might be 400 but with such a large denominator it doesn't really matter) Because we have only 12V to play with we go backwards to find the resistance needed for that amperage 12 / 0.005 = 2400, so we need a 2k4 resistor. So I took out the 42k resistor, replaced with 2k4 resistor and put it back in. Video of tacho working: http://i801.photobucket.com/albums/yy295/Bangbug_bucket/video-2014-06-30-21-48-13.mp4 RPM sweep works nicely too, thanks link!

Are you bound to report something like this when you believe the tags have been swapped? I think that was in the literature somewhere as well. I think it puts you in a bit of a bind as I imagine some people you'd really rather not rat on!

Not all do, here are the guidelines I read/followed. http://www.lvvta.org.nz/documents/infosheets/LVVTA_Info_09-2011_Drive-shaft_Safety_Loop_Requirement_Clarification.pdf I did some research on that when doing mine, I do not have one and Clint has not required me to have one yet. It may change on the cyclic test but we'll see. It would not be a problem should it be required. Disclaimer: I'm not having a go at anyone. I do not know it all. I offer only an area for you to check out from the lvvta. I offer no opinion as to how it applies to your vehicle. I'll still get shit. I'm taking the piss.

I've got a 323 mc swapped into something and it feels fine and free'd up a lot of space (for plenum). If you're a clever sod you'll adapt anything, or if you're short of time look up "swappable" ones. Mine is a little deeper but it's the width that was causing drama. Racing is hard work, so the less effort the more blood for your brain to race with.

120m is a great effort!!!! Back when I was exciting I used to make black powder by the kilo... pre-911 and use it to do similar things but with a rocket motor strapped to a 1.8m long dowel. The problem was keeping it going ballistic instead of straight up! It wasn't rocket science but... oh it sorta was. Sure would love to see a vid of it in action! Certainly looks beautiful!

Nice work, good update

TO MAKE IT CLEAR: (AGAIN) I'm not having a go at Clint. I think he's swell. I'm informing others what I didn't know (which is plenty) about EVERYTHING is checked. Fuck me I didn't know, I'm so sorry I ever shared. Please forgive me for not being a certifier. FOR THE RECORD: I have not been mistreated by Clint, I've been very well treated, I think he's fucking swell. I HAVE SAID SO already but I've now deleted it as it's obviously not read, I imagine it won't be again. But if words shall be misinterpreted and I shall be called to be "whinging", "complaining" and "feet stomping" I shall retract everything. It was never for my gain to post, I did so knowing that some of you would misinterpret and be bitchy about it. But still posted as it's information for the next member to read and learn. Sorry next member if you're after some info, sorry to the current members for deleting things or because you misinterpreted my words, sorry to Clint though I doubt he thought I was having a go at him. Please send the other bloke to finish my cert next time should you think so, or just have a go at me when I see you next. I don't mind, I'll even say sorry in person, I'll buy you a god damn beer if you want.

Please excuse me for sharing my ill informed thoughts, I must be coming across as a cunt. Thanks Chees, will do, I'll go learn it all before asking any questions, I'm glad to start with learning that an AC allows you to compete in any form of racing. Could you advise me when I know it all? (I'm sorry, that was an example of being a cunt just for comparison for my read back.) I'll delete this later, as it's great tongue in cheek.

A-Frame towbar, professional grafter

Dude, thanks for the excellent amount of detail with those photos! Excellent thread!

That's good thread information.

Don't rock the boat.

No complaints.

Clint is a nice guy.

I do hate deleting things.

That was an excellent build/resto thread. Fine work

Woohoo. Gas gas gas! I think we should have a BBQ section. Nice work!

Since I'll be going through this as well in the coming soonness I'll do a "how to" with a bit of luck. The best so far has been from gldfshbob I reckon. I'll even do some pictures, actually..... I'll do it in my build thread, I'll link to it once I'm done. From reading this forum I think I'll be fixing her up as is, re-registering THEN getting my rod on.... or something that doesn't sound gross.