rotor_dude

hmmmm brakes, tbh, the brakes should have been fully inspected, which means wheels off, no excuse you need to check the brake shoes for wear, uneven you need to check wheel cylinders, are moving freely, also not leaking then you need to adjust the brakes, yes, drum brakes can be adjusted from outside, inside face of drum, but you wouldnt waste your time unless you knew the condition of the brakes etc you can check balance, fairly acurately, if you have a good feel for things 2 persons, one in car for brake pedal operation, other with wheel/brake spin wheel, person push brake pedal, feel when it contacts, do front axle first, so r/f then l/f, a few times to get feel rear, do same, handbrake easier to test, get person to pull handbrake up one click at a time, go from side to side feeling the brake bite, should be equal bite from within 1 click etc should bite at 4 clicks be fully locked at 7 clicks exhaust, no excuse for a exhaust after its been looked at, easy to test, engine idling, hold a good thick rag over end of exhaust, another person check for leaks no excuse this wasnt fixed, either by cleaning and resealing joints with joint sealer, or replacing joints or exhaust pipe give them another go, if not fixed, go elsewhere ?

im only after pictures of nz tca/lower arms, thanks

ckd ?

cheers, my mk1 has cast tca, its only a 1200 deluxe, so according to uk it should only have pressed tca just wondering was nz different specs etc or has someone fitted HD/GT cast tca's etc as the struts i got in uk have pressed tca, i hadnt seen them before, so didnt know what they were thanks

ford cortina mk1, help, pictures of lower front arms anyone help with some pictures of nz front arms, the arm that goes from the crossmember to the balljoint bought some uk struts and the arms are different to mine, so just trying to figure what ball joint etc i need thanks glen

anyone used this stuff ? https://www.owatroldirect.co.uk/product/owatrol-oil/?gclid=Cj0KCQiApbzhBRDKARIsAIvZue8GQ0cNOroIVjATYkwknioiTWGjLK-teow-wxTqE383nXASyJTthq0aAgvbEALw_wcB

thanks for pics, vids dang i knew i shoulda went

Sounds good, Gutted couldn't make it, Any pics or links ? Thanks.

Whois going ? Whats details ? Whats peoples experiences of the day ? Worth going if only spectating ? Thanks.

Blast from past Is the summer drags still going ?

well done lad, very impressive work car looks amazing enjoy driving

wow looking owsome bet your seeing the light at the end of the tunnel now keep it up

discussion thread ? awesome car lad, like your plans too, would love a mk1 wagon, seen one in uk where they have turned it into a 2dr, used 2dr doors and moved the b pillar etc, has a big single window from door to back, looks very cool wouldnt mind giving it a go with a mk1 or mk2 wagon

very cool score mullins enjoy

yeah a new pump sounds the go, also, you could fit an electric facet fuel pump, but that would include wiring the fuel pump up

where did the bumper thingys come from ? as never seen them on a mk1 before ? mk2's GTE yeah what country has them ? or are they from another car and just fitted ?

i dont care whether its clean or dirty, get em up

lovely mk1, any pictures of the whole car, engine bay, interior etc

looking very good lad love it how you can separate the chassis from body and get the chassis all done and then build it up to rolling keep up the good work

i would have thought you cant get more original than ownership papers as its proof its been registered in nz i wouldnt believe internet unless it was an official site, ie government or mazda etc im sure if you spend sometime going to mazda then it will be resolved fairly easy

would the original ownership papers not have this information that could be used ? if you still have em

sometimes its best just to go to mazda and ask them or ask them who in mazda you need to speak to its to easy to get passed off on the phone

well done saving her and bringing back to life good to see keep up the good work

did you try the above on tyres ?

do at your own risk, id do on a straight road, not many people use etc lower tyre pressures to 10 psi, drive safe and increase distance between cars etc, go for longish drive then pump tyres upto 50 psi, same again, increase distance between cars etc, go for longish drive then set to normal tyre pressure, road test and check repeat if needed keep a big distance between cars, as brakes and handling dont work aswell if there is cracks in sidewalls etc, then above probably wont work, or not worth doing