fletch

Also got some evo brembo calipers and 320mm ish rotors. There are a few types of adapter brackets so i need to find a decent set that will pass cert, or buy some 350mm evoX rotors and adapters for the front and 350mm 370z rotors for the rear. My overnight parts from the UAE turned up yesterday with the r34 gtr master cylinder to suit the larger calipers. They look like the will have some stopping power. The current brakes used to run out just before i got to the top of mt messenger.

I got this back when i was an apprentice and did many of the period correct mods. RB30DET, cut a hole in the front bumper for larger intercooler, loud exhaust, terrible surge tank in boot, poorly fitted gauges (not in the A pillar to my credit) etc etc. It went terribly fast, and ran kind of poorly due to some lol issues that i never worked out at the time. I went overseas not long after and i kept it in an old barn on dads farm with dreams of someday spending a heap of cash on it and doing skids etc This pic was early 2019 when we dragged it out of the shed. Lack of genuine barn dust due to being well covered for 10 years. Nothing happened until maybe a month ago when i got the motor out and apart. Assume the position like the rest of my shed - bonnet up.. Im not sure about the condition of the crank, it has some marks and has already been ground undersize, so i stripped a spare rb30 and will get it measured up and the machining done in July hopefully. So far, i have nitto rods, CP pistons 8.5:1, link G4X fury, 1000cc injectors, GTX 3582r, sinco manifold Its 4wd so i might buy one of those flash PRP block brace/adapter plates. Apparently they are necessary, as if you have 600+hp and a front LSD you will crack the block. But they are expensive, and so is a front LSD. so i might pass on that. Also bought a bosch DBW throttle, and got a 350z pedal assembly, they bolt straight in so that was an easy win. I have some time off in July so hopefully ill make some progress

long time no hear. Have had the work/life balance tipped way too far to the work side since jan 21 and haven't done much on the car. I did get the engine assembled, and @Bistro gave me a hand to install and test drive/run it in sometime maybe earlier this year. Engine went really well. Knocked a bit with the old gas in the tank, but is going sweet with some fresh stuff. Just running a stock cam and single carb at the moment. I have a cam and a MAXX ecu to run the injected carbs. Need to do the fuel supply inside the carb hats, and order some lash caps to suit the cam. Hopefully ill get onto it later in the year. Image hosting seems to have packed a shit so ill try something else. As it sits, a good storage area for my other projects...

Time for a big block 2zr-fxe ?

Mum had a supercharged jaaaag, it drove like shit at anything under 115kmh. Had to concentrate to keep it on the road. Once it was sitting on 120+ it was a dream

I'm a fan of the Italian tune up tbh. Hondas love it

I wonder how much effect the air velocity has in the inlet. high rpm/air velocity would slow the waves outward path in the inlet? Could be a reason for unexpected performance of odd inlet shapes, with different air velocities due to the diameter change, having an effect on the timing of the peaks?

Low oil pressure not pumping up the lifters? Can you pull them apart and clean out like rfb skylines?

https://nzairfilter.co.nz/aem-30-8762.html 54mm d shaft disc to suit gti-r I got one for my l20et dizzy. Looks the same as your dizzy, except for the mechanical advance. You might have to bin that part and lock it so the ecu can do the advance. You can also buy replacement pickups. It's a lx652. Common on lots of nissan dizzys. Can't remember where I got one from They are 160 on rockauto. Yours should be sweet.

Dizzy looks modifiable. Can you measure the disc diameter? It will be 50 or 54mm. I'll find the link. The pickup will still work, just have to rewire it. Replacement pickups can still be had from rock auto. I have a spare I can send you to trial fit if required.

Has it got bolt on hubs or the press together ones? If the 2nd type, can you just put the axles back in and tie the inner ends out of the way so they can still spin a bit?

Multiple charging systems ok. As the battery nears 14.4v or whatever the charger will back off. That redarc unit looks like the ticket. All in one. Set and forget etc etc. They are good as they can take down to 9v input and charge a 12v battery properly. Good for when you have a long cable from front to rear of vehicle and say a caravan, but still get good voltage at the battery. How much is it?

My opinion, 12v solar charger and buy a decent 24-12v charger that only runs when the engine is running. That leaves the 24v system alone and shouldnt need solar top up as your not draining it all night.

Link https://www.hobbycorner.co.nz/product/brake-cleaner-plus-500mls/w0089010810.aspx We buy it from some engineering supplies place in bulk, the fitters have 20L drums of it

The wurth stuff is better. Easier on your skin and some plastics too. I use it for everything at work and home

What's inside the dizzy? I have a similar era one from a l28et that I changed out the trigger disc for a 24 tooth one and got a more modern pickup for it. Yours looks a bit similar.

I just cut the turbo down pipe under the motor and migged the stock exhaust to it for max stealth/cbf

Did a +t on a u12 sr20 with u13 turbo parts a long time ago. Turbo, manifold, injectors, ecu, loom, intercooler. That's it. I diverted the coolant hoses off the throttle body to the turbo, tee'd the oil pressure sensor for the oil feed, and there is a boss in the block where the oil drain can be drilled. Get a friend to gold the duster gun on the rocker cover breather to pressurise the crankcase a bit and drill away. The air will keep the swarf out. Tap it out for a 1/2 brass fitting. Will take 10psi easy

We used to run a misprint with an e13 nissan at 9000+ rpm and had trouble with ewp's dying. They were hard mounted to the motor and the braided wires to the brushes would dissolve. We moved the pump so it just hung from a bit of hose and lasted 2 seasons

Can probably swing by Wednesday evening if that suits? You should buy it so you can cart @Geophy sweet mill that I haven't finished modifying back.

I'm pretty sure those lockout pins only go in 1 spot. Not all 4 cavities. I was investigating a Subaru one once and they have a pin that limits the advance until it has enough oil pressure to retract the pin. That was only on one of the cavities

For an oil light? If you have a dead short for a lamp, 7.2w will flow at 12v. What is the resistance of the lamp?

Yea just mash it in there and it looks like a pro did it.. +1 for a bit of ss wire on some crusty mild. Also, like sheepers said, dont need a foot pedal. Just set the downslope and when things start getting a bit spicy, let off the trigger and back on before it shuts off. Couple of them to get you out of trouble and youre away again

Is it possible to just set a max acceleration ramp? And have a knob to change the slope depending on available traction?

This. The fuse holder probably just china'd out. Have seen it a few times in various applications. I always check the the fuse is a nice tight fit into the terminals. If not, give it a bit of a pinch up with the pliers to close the female parts up.