fletch

Yip should be a go. Daylight hours are starting to increase too which is good.

Yeah what Clint said. Worked on my mates one a while ago. Had similar problems. Lots of shut stuck to the sensors cos they magnet.

Hydrogen is good. They use it to cool the generators at Huntly power station. Probably the best heat capacity vs price

great photos of milford and stuff. You did well to get there on a clear day. I have been a few times for various reasons and the weather has always been shit and foggy.

Send ja1lb8 a pm about century wheels. He has a set he might want to part with.

Looks mint. I see your running the auto fan belt tensioner. If you find your spitting fan belts when your doing hectik d1 clutch kicks, you will need to make a bracket to hold the tensioner tight. The manual version has a little shock absorber thing on it, but Toyota want around 800 nz pesos for it.

Jackpot. I have this issue with a car but it's a long way from getting on the road. Have all the paperwork so should be OK Thanks man.

Is that the vtnz in the valley or town? I have a car I want to attempt to Vin.

Sweet. Taking the wagon for wof tomorrow.

Good to put another face to a name. Was keen for sharns but had to get home.

Excellent work again! Looks like it's coming along well.

Yes but it's the acceleration that matters. Traveling up the bore then stopping and going back down is where all the force is. A longer rod reduces the peak acceleration of the piston.

One of the main reasons is slower acceleration of the piston at TDC and bdc. For backyard cowboys like us it means you can use a cheaper piston and rod due to lower stresses. I read somewhere that the screaming v10 f1 motors had to run a real long rod as at 20k rpm the piston would out accelerate the flame front at the point of ignition and lose torque!

Yea it's the heavier casting rfb block. I think they use them some places as they are taller than the rb25/26 block. Most people just run the rb30 block. The LD is just an L28 block but 3/4 taller and bit smaller in the bore. With a filthy deez head on it

Yes, but only really matters on high rpm motors. This one won't see over 7000 so the only reason for doing it was the supposedly thicker bore that could go out to 89 or 90mm, and the taller deck to more easily fit a bigger stroke.

It's a v57 block which apparently has thick walls. But has not. The taller deck gives more room for more stroke from am offset ground crank. Obviously only worth it if you can also go to 89mm or more bore

Haha. All good. I'll be there next time. Maybe buy some beers and come to mine and help strip some motors while drinking beers.

Not looking good here either. We have some err.. water damage at work....

Are you riding there? On your death trap? Haha

Turn the engine over until the inlet valves are partially open on that cylinder and put some compressed air onto a hose on the inlet manifold and pressurize the cylinder to blow out swarf.

Jackpot. Excuse the rivets. I was out of wood screws.

Should be there. Couple of jobs to finish at work then jam a beer can in the hole in the muffler and wait for the cover of darkness

Thanks man. Pm sent

My cousin has one of those sweet full grandma armchair spec mitsi sigma turbos that I believe has blown a turbo oil seal. Is anybody keen to go and have a look/drive it and maybe pull the turbo off for repair? There's a box of beer in it just for having a look. Worth a look. The occupants of the house are all pretty easy on the eyes too..

Yes not the push in style ones. I mean that blue parker push on hose that you don't need hose clips for. It's rated for a decent pressure.