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piazzanoob

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Everything posted by piazzanoob

  1. just do them until there is a nice clean lap mark all the way round. but you may not get the whole face of the valve seat which is fine. another thing to do is put bearing blue on the valve face and let the valve drop on the seat and see how much is contacting. also valves and seats may need refacing on a machine depending on the wear. also check the valve guides aren't too worn too And make sure the head/valves gets a good clean after lapping them in too hope this helps
  2. I haven't given up. abit sick of seeing it sitting in the garage though. but a car cover helps hide that haha been currently working on the engine but at 1 day half days progress is slow
  3. also personally would get it blasted then etch prime black then a good black over the top. would recommend a protec or ppg product myself
  4. yes on autoblast being expensive. got my car done somewhere else at half of there quote
  5. After running the engine with the new spark plugs and there is no miss. Then removing the plugs when the miss appears what condition are all the plugs in? particularly no 4 This also might help identify what the plugs are doing.
  6. can you guys help take down the neon signs after a big feed thanks boys
  7. Figured this thread suited this best. Got given these ramps and axle stands by the neighbor. They were all covered in surface rust and figured I should blast and paint them being the weirdo I am Gave them a spray can primer. Then had to decide on a colour I didn't want a normal blue red or black. so caterpillar yellow/mustard they went. also gives me an excuse to get some spray gun experience And unfortunately can't post any photos of the axle stands due to file size
  8. https://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/used-cars/chevrolet/auction-2241434027.htm?rsqid=3da44eafa457424f9dd65f9b918f20fe-001 perfect for next years cruiser mate will help get going etc will help flip leafs
  9. so last year in 4 weeks i stripped the front and resprayed the engine bay. gave the engine some new parts and a spray can rebuild. chucked it back together as i wanted to take it to an event. got it mostly done the night before the event worked till 2am that night. did some more in the morning as had carb issues. then took it to the event and hoped for no breakdowns. i had pushed myself to finish it in time as a woman wanted to go to the event together and was keen to go in my car. plus would've been extra brownie points right? but it turned to shit before the event. but ended up taking a male mate instead. was good but still overheated... been super slack and haven't been updating this thread will try and update it in the next few weeks yeeah
  10. motor is still in bits.. been making progress but slow due to doing other stuff and trying to get the machinist to come in on and Saturday and help work on it. did some stuff last Saturday but couldn't assemble heads due to wrong valve stem seal but should be sorting that this sat its Actually quite depressing when ive spent more time working on it than ive ever driven it.
  11. About your painfull sanding experience ive found that its always much easier to do it while jamming some music in your headphones. or find someone like your mate or partner to give you a hand that way you can sharn away and get shit done. but the end result is most of the time very rewarding and worth all that time you spent doing it. unless you just want a bill and unrewarding experience because you just paid someone to do it but Anyway crank onto it and get it done to have some fun with it on the track
  12. seen as your doing a full engine rebuild. one thing that should be done on these motors is to clean up the block casting in the valley where the oval holes are. they have small bits from the casting left there which can come off and destroy your new engine. just run a die grinder round there and ya good and anywhere else that may need it. oh and replace the distributor bush too also would personally buy new better heads than fix your current ones as most of the time the cost getting a shop to fit new guides and inserts plus valves isn't far off the price of new heads. but that depends on the condition of the heads Not trying to be a know it all or anything but i work at a engine shop so i know whats involved. plus im doing a 318 at the moment
  13. cool pad! Are your plans to live in this also? and whats the natural temperatures like in it?
  14. Hit up youtube for checking and testing car charging systems pull out your multimeter then off ya go and diagnose ya fault swapping parts can chase ya tail plus its a bonus when ya learn something new
  15. wouldn't bother with spray on chrome with something like wheels probably small things that are not seen all the time i guess would be fine. would just end up in disappointment or redoing in 12 months personally would just get it back to bare alloy then just polish them. And clearing them can turn yellow or dull or crazy cracking. this is if doing at home with a spray can etc. if wanting to do yourself just paint strip them and polish then re polish when needed. but also a good polish and good paint shop could clear them and they could last depending on conditions
  16. yeah you could buy another chassis for that price. but he did say he wanted to restore the vehicle so either way another one would require dipping or blasting before painting.
  17. best bet would be to get the chassis itself acid dipped. then most likely powder coating. or galvanized but that adds alot of weight onto it but the rest of the bits can just be sand blasted and either powder coated or painted. the most important thing is to get the rust from inside the chassis out and to stop the current rust on the inside getting worse.
  18. Have had the same issue aswell fuel turned to a varnish and can end up into sludge i just used some small chain with some of the shitty fuel and moved it around abit. don't use bike chain just normal chain as it has no sharp edges does take a abit of time to get it nice depending on condition. also when i did it it didnt appear to affect the zinc coating And generally the zinc coating wears off than chipping off in this case and if you are worried about leaving crap in the tank just redo it after a few tank fills of gas. does make it easy if it has a drain though
  19. Exhaust looks ace man! good to see that there are still good shops out there that take the time on the smaller details rather than getting it out the door
  20. Also will be at beach hop but with no galaxie or car infact galaxie's heart is currently in bits awaiting machining. but keen to catch up with some OS folks if ya around
  21. better be getting those ITS GOING TO BEACH HOP excuses for anyone sorting stuff on it
  22. repco currently have a special on a vacuum gauge which is handy for tuning carbs otherwise hose and a coke bottle works for listening
  23. Before you go and slap some new rings bearings and gaskets at it. it would be best to measure everything up. then order the right stuff first time doing a job twice or pulling the motor out again isn't much fun in my experience. As for cleaning pull all oil and water frost plugs out and clean it properly any oil or water buildup stuck somewhere could result in rebuilt motor being wrecked perhaps making an electrolysis bath could work for cleaning?
  24. just bring galaxie down I took mine last year unregistered still on US plates and had no trouble
  25. So with now having the engine black ready to bolt on everything I looked at it and was unimpressed how well it looked being that the engine bay also being black as then there would of been too much black. so ended up sanding all that off and painting it this colour. so these galaxie's ran black engine blocks from 1959 till 1965 then in 1966 they went to this blue colour which looks alot better than black. then after letting the paint dry i put the rest of the bolt on items back on the motor. then did some more painting on bolts And nuts And cleaned up the throttle linkage bit and turned it black No more Orange And cleaned up and painted other bits like the engine and trans dipsticks. then joined the two together to go back in then in the hole Also polished up the rocker covers and bolted them back on too. now its just piece everything back on while tidying bits up like the wiring and painting and cleaning bolts.
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