Muncie

Around 45k is ballpark its what i used to do, i ended up getting a limited electrical licence so i could wire up the machines i was building made huge difference went to 60k then got poached by another company.......

http://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/car-parts-accessories/bmw/exterior/auction-562324658.htm Fuck i might buy them all cheap as chips

any 85- 90's beemer should be ago i raid em for my triumphs all the time some later models have both in a single mount which would make your life easier mounting em into somthing else. you can get those nice as Jewel cut ones on ebay with hid units new for aound 180 something else to consider.

had some experience welding up broken machine parts welded up completely borked guides on bandsaw at my old work under guidence of clued up "olde" school engineer, process was V out the crack then get it nice and hot with gas torch pre heat a stainless welding rod (just getting it hot on scrap works) then squeeze crack closed and weld it up and let it cool off in air. done plenty cast stuff this way now seems to work well and last.

I owned a TT 1990 300zx i picked it up for a straight swap for my extremely dodgy vn commodore. had a dead trans join up to the http://www.300zx.co.nz the guys on there looked after me with parts and advice within 2 weeks i got mine on road chipped and making 380hp it gave me no probs service for 2 years before my wife caught babies from me and i had to sell it and buy a wagon......

If i drop a v8 into my Triumph 2500 What are the definate other upgrades needed to pass cert? i've done 2 rover v8 conversions on them and got them certed but that was 8-10 years ago so suspect things are bit harder now. main thing is will i need to do the brakes? as they are all basicly new and pull up real good.

Could always swap out your brake bulbs for some Led's those suckers are bright as ...... and wont melt your lenses like halogen headlight bulbs (yeah have done it lenses dribbled all over bumper)

got a pic ? i remember i paragraph in the earlier paper version that stated what was required (Cert) http://www.lvvta.org.nz/documents/suplementary_information/LVVTA_LVV_Cert_Threshold.pdf General rule of thumb if you cant find it in here you are probably stuffed should you come across a grumpy cop.

Diff is mounted to same subframe the swingarms are mounted too raising the diff pushes the inner swingarm mount up. its not gong to give you zero camber when right down but for the minimal effort to swap the rubbers around its worth it to slow down tyre wear. if your swing arm rubbers are sad though nothing will help but nolathane replacements.

hey havnt bought these myself yet but a quick mod you can do is swapping the rear rubbers on the diff mounts to raise it altering trailing arm angle for now this has got my cars camber under control though i havnt gone mad on the lowering yet.... will be dropping another 50mm lower in year.

Bought a dropped one off trademe and raided bits out of it for mine though. autometer do repairs if you dont mind waiting think segedins out at auckland airport are agents.

What type of tach? i have had an autometer do similar thing was poked needed a new stepper motor.

100% correct Triumph motor not staying in forever though havnt decided what to replace it with yet so so trying to set up to not break whatever goes up front. Car should never end up with more than 300hp though unless i win lotto of course.

Yup was pointing out can use both, but longnose is less work to fit eg mounting but if i have to obtain 2 diffs it would be worth the extra work to mount a more common diff in case i break it as swapping guts is a pain in the bum if your out and about. i've done plenty of triumph diffs roadside hoping to put an end to that with this conversion. and also didnt realise how rare a longnose was making me have a rethink.

Could use a short r200 but means the flange will sit inside a subframe and driveshaft will need to be longer to reach it. might actually be better as it would be contained if it were to break a uni joint which has happened to me before.

The diff in the trumpy has started whining and leaking so time to start next item on to do list Am after a LSD from what i gather these come in z31's and s12 silvias is that correct? found plenty of info on net for the conversion into my car but then info on the donor is a bit vague. Uploaded with ImageShack.us r200 at top trumpy diff middle r200 longnose nearest cant wait to get into this

that explains it bummer will have to put a bit more thought into it now. for now i reverse bled it by using a old clutch cylinder to push fluid back up the line seems to have it working but will be revisting brakes next weekend. when i stripped rear brakes both cylinders were rooted and leaking but had stopped using brake fluid must have shut itself off as the article said.

Are you making a bell housing adapter? i managed to get some CSK bolts for my lexus v8 thru steel & tubes fastening supplies branch. they have huge stock.

suspect the back brakes may have been locked off for skids by previous owner by jamming something in the brass distribution block. hence putting a drill thru it got fluid flowing again but yeah brakes are working ok front are back to normal but cant really tell how well rears are working. would hate for my wife to need to jump on them and not have rears working. normally i do the old open valve at back left foot to floor shut valve repeat method but cant push pedal to floor its like rears are completely separate from front, and front is giving a firm pedal while trying to bleed rear. fucking odd and making me a tad furious aye.

Hey guys been franticly trying to get car a wof this weekend so rear brakes were basicly shot dripping fluid next to no handbrake, Thought i best not muck around as my wife wants to use it as her daily over summer so bought new wheel cylinders and shoes fitted those up no worries. went to bleed them couldnt get a drop out of it either side with both bleed nipples opened i still had a firm pedal feels like normal basicly. tracked line back up to engine bay no damage on that so suspect eye locked onto the brass block that all the lines split off from (has warning light sensor in it too) ripped it out blew all crap out and notice couldn't see thru port that feeds rear brakes run drill thru it chucked back in, second attempt at bleeding getting bit of fluid thru now but pedal wont go to floor for full pump like its pushing against the front. So on a dual circuit system should the front brakes bypass thru to the back when bleeding? never struck this before despite owning close to 30 of these cars in past. Any ideas.

Have you thought about going to a electric water pump with controller? modern technology is awesome these days be worthwhile as well as a new rad would sort out your issues no doubt. will be fitting one after my engine rebuild.

you need devcon for that dodgy porous throttle body titanum putty seriously fixes shit a tig can't got a pot if your interested could get it to you. it's not cheap but i'll never use it up.

Found my solution half the price of the moss kit. about 170 bucks landed in nz doubt i could be assed making it for that money http://www.goodparts...p?categoryID=13 Uploaded with ImageShack.us

if the pump is external power it up and see if the car starts it'll help track down the problem. my vn commodore had similar problem had 12 volts at pump wiring but hook it to pump it'd drop down 8v Not enough to make any fuel pressure was shitty contacts in relay. come to think of it had a porsche 924 that did same thing.

providing your driveshaft slips in the box you should be able to use the triumph unit providing the bellhousing can be swapped over, and torque converter bolts up to the flexplate on your engine you'll be away laughing.