dr.wylde

Well done on finding a MKII! There arent many about! I'm going to be cheeky and ask what is the top the rear windscreen like on the yellow shell?

Hey Indy My wife has an XJ40 on our driveway awaiting repairs. Does your self leveling suspension in the rear work? Fantastic cars, go well too (when they do go)

Hi Alex ! This is excellent and I look forward to seeing what you do with it!

Please tell me your going to keep that colour!

its ok Ive only tested it out on a scrap bonnet with some .8mm flux core wire for shits and giggles still need to get a gas bottle and reg. It does the job nicely!

I bought the same welder myself a month ago!

Awesome !

No worries, Please let us know how you get on! once they're set up they are quite good, particularly when cruising.

Ok then! here we go. I'll do my best to explain this and hopefully it makes sense. I'm going to assume that the carb and Ignition system are in good working order and the quaddie is Jetted up correctly for your setup I set my mixture screws out 3.5 turns. My car wouldnt start on any less, Start engine, warm her up, Next get out your timing gun, Yep thats right set your base timing this is important in order get the right mixture at Idle. Advance your timing giving the odd blip of the throttle until the engine response is sharp and crisp ( for me this was at 12* BTDC , Depending on how modded your engine is this could be more like 14-16* BTDC.) also make sure your vac advance is disconnected Now... Get a vacuum gauge and connect it into an available vac port. start with enrichening one screw at a time, the vac gauge should react and read higher as you give it more juice. the engine speed will naturally increase you may need to wind the idle screw back abit to maintain your idle speed! when the vacuum gauge stops responding to more fuel dial it back slightly and move to the next mixture screw. once completed plug in your vacuum advance. your idle speed may go up a little . once again wind your idle spped screw back again to compensate . Idle speed should be around 650-800 rpm. Now your base timing and Idle mix are set. back to timing. being that you may have advanced your base timing to 12-16* or maybe even beyond depending on your level of 308 awesomeness. the Toatal timing is going to be too far advanced. What I did before I started the whole tune up is I set my Crank pulley to TDC :made a mark , Then I wound the Engine back 10* (anti clockwise) on the timing marks and made another mark at zero I countinued to do this until My mark was at 34* BTC . Most (not all) Modified pre VN headed Holdens. Like to be all in @32-34 Before TDC @ 3000rpm. anyways base time and mixture is now set so keep your timing light with you rev your motor up to 3000rpm check your timing @3000rpm if your are beyond the Magical 34 mark (eg if your firing at 40* BTDC) pull the dizzy and set the centrifugal advance stops earlier or better yet get a pro to set them or a dyno run they will pinpoint where the ignition timing makes the most power. I hope this helps mate Holler out if you need anymore advice. I'm not a pro but this is what I did and It worked for me! Also get an electronic choke setup off ebay. best investment out. on the right hand side of the carb is where the Choke/Fast idle adjustment screw is located wind this in when cold to desired choke RPM . now go do a sick skid in your 308 STRAYA CUNT!

Swooon! this is nice! I know my shizz around the Quaddie and 308 setup. I tuned my 308 in my Statesman including installing an electric choke on the quaddie happy to give a few pointers if you want. cheers

Hi and welcome to the forum. I love Mk1s will be watching with interest.

yes I am, Crikey small world!

out of curiosity: you didnt happen to buy a VP diff from Waimate did you?

just thought I'd drop in to say that this thing is pretty cool. will be watching with interest

Wish I could Afford a set! so dont think so atm! Awesome! Glad to hear its not anything out of the ordinary for a Holden. Yes my motor has been a pain but its hopefully going to be alright ( just break, fix, repeat)

the pushrod went into the lifter collapsing it I suppose you could say

The Cam lobe is fine it survived the ordeal unscathed! I didnt rebuild this engine, I bought it as a rebuilt engine for $2k this at the time was cheaper than rebuilding my original Donk. In hindsight ( beautiful thing that Hindsight!) I should of just coughed up the extra $ and had my original motor done properly the first time around... at a reputable firm not the local one near me that quoted ridiculous money. This engine was rebuilt (fuck knows when!) then was left to sit around for a few years under a bench and its been nothing but problem after problem with this red motor. but ohwell gotta live with it now. I'll biff a new lifter in ,along with a spare rocker arm and pushrod from my hoard of bits.

I can be a bit too generous with it at times!

Like I said I can't bring myself to part with it! So it stays that engine is only 3000km since it was rebuilt hence wondering if I can get away with another lifter in there without replacing the lot! might take the head in and get it checked out.

Long overdue update! I've been using this car as a weekend pleasure cruiser, done a few tow jobs here and there. Just enjoying the car In a more Legal manner. So we headed away for a weekend in June and took the Stato on its first maiden voyage-not too far just an hour and a half drive from Waimate to Twizel to see the inlaws. I absolutely loved loading up the car with the wife and kids and going on a drive up the high country but... it wasnt with out a few hiccups. We were 1 km out of Omarama when the whole car started to shake up and down and side to side. ( quite a weird shake really cant explain it!) limped into omarama went to put the spare on and that was a no go as it was bald and deflated I was caught with my pants down. the old whitewall had started to separate $120 later and a mediocre replacement fitted we were back on the road anyways made it to the inlaws house enjoyed my weekend even though it was freezing cold. all was good until we had to leave two days later. The car started to miss just outside of Twizel that then grew into a backfiring out the carb. rang the inlaws got towed back to their house and we borrowed the Mother in laws cressida. I said my goodbyes and left a big slut in Twizel I called John from South Island couriers to bring the car back to me 2 weeks later along with $250. I tell you what it was an expensive weekend. Since then its just sat in my Garage I've been at the point where I dont want to sink anymore money into it ( as its hemmoraged so much money already more than I've let on here at OS) I have even considered moving it on. I'd tested the waters on Facecrack and got some interest but then it dawned on me I just cant bear to part with it. The thought of some young fuckwit making it into a boozer makes me angry. since June Mrs Wylde removed the Right hand rocker cover and found the rocker arm on Ex #7 torn in half and a destroyed lifter the cam lobe survived the ordeal though. My intial thought was that It jammed a valve when we were up in Twizel. so Today I took the head off unfortunately I stopped taking photos at this point but I got the Head off and removed the valve spring. The valve was not stuck! I'm confused as to why or how this happened. Can I get away with replacing the lifter? or will I need a new cam too? Or just LS/Chev/Big block it? TL:DR - A new tyre and a fucked engine!

She was back then!

So Mrs Wylde poked the rusty bits until they became holes we then decided to pull the rear window out what we saw afterwards was pretty ugly rear cantrail is rusted out ! Will be needing a rear roof cut off another car for this.

I'm not really in much of a position to be buying a new engine at the moment. keen for this to stay small bore for max open throttle doorts everywhere !

Please! that would be great!

Brave or stupid? time will tell! overall its got good bones . compared to what the poms start with! have considered the engine conversion route still not worried over the running gear first things first is to get the body in order it will need a new front floorpan and rear valance.