Benno

Have you confirmed that you are getting no voltage out of the alternator with a multimeter? Test off the alternator terminals if you can to eliminate the possibility of there being a wiring fault between the alternator and the battery.

Indicators and horn not working is kind of surprising, I would think that the voltage spikes from welding have blown the diodes in the rectifier from the alternator

Yup, definitely still points. I don't know much about what fits these engines, but if you can get a bolt-in electronic replacement go for it. Probably one of the best upgrades you can do. If you are looking at putting in an electric pump I would be replacing the mechanical pump altogether. Not an overly complicated job, hardest part is putting in a system so the fuel pump can cut out when the engine stops so it doesn't continue to pour fuel out in the event of a crash. How old is the fuel in it? Stale fuel can mean it takes a bit longer to start

Yeah, basically this. Just put down some drop sheets and some cardboard or something, when they do their (3 monthly?) flat inspection, tow it around the corner or something

Depending on how my KZ440 WOF goes next week I could be keen to bring that for the display

It is, you'd never get a cert without hubcentric adapters or similar

Sounds like an alarm would end up being a pain in the arse then. I might just get a flashing red or blue LED and install that somewhere then

Has factory immobiliser, no intrusion alarm. My girlfriend lives in a kinda dodgey area so having an alarm would just give me a bit more peace of mind

Yeah, but AS/NZS4601 still has basically the same requirements as 4 star used to and most alarms are still marketed using the star system. That would be great thanks Scott.

I'm thinking about getting an alarm installed in my daily, just for a bit of piece of mind. Would need to be at least 4 stars and installed by a professional for my insurance company to recognize it (although I would still save fuck all). Any recommendations of alarm types and/or installers? Keen not to pay moonbeams if possible, but would prefer a quality job.

Yeah, also Chris's place is within walking distance from my place which makes things easy tomorrow morning. Cheers for all the offers though

I have an MTX-L. I got mine from Amazon, when I got mine it was cheaper again as was on special but is still cheaper then trademe. Takes under a week to arrive too. Pretty happy with it so far, haven't had any issues with it. http://www.amazon.com/Innovate-Motorsports-3844-MTX-L-Complete/dp/B004MDT8MW/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1440455883&sr=8-1&keywords=INNOVATE+MTX-L

Yeah, Simon seems to know his stuff. I would agree, sounds a lot like you've got an air leak or something somewhere. Could be a poor seal between your manifold and head or carb and manifold. Also make sure you check all your vacuum lines carefully, make sure they are connected properly without any splits or holes etc.

Any idea what setup you've got with the carb at the moment? I am also having tuning issues with mine (weber 40 DCOE on 1600 crossflow), might be able to compare notes. Someone else might have some tips and/or experience too. I've ordered (haven't installed yet) 34mm venturis, 140 mains and 190 air correctors. From advice I've got and researched online it sounds like it might be close at least. Might need to go up to 150 mains and 200 air correctors. Will hopefully find out soon and can have a look at accelerator pump etc.

Might be an opportune time to consider switching to EFI perhaps? With the megasquirt already in action all of the hard work is done, just need to sort out fuel system and redo the manifold really. Could probably pick up some 4AGE ITBs pretty cheap

Also interested in this, will probably be wanting to get my car done later this year

Someone who has done this will probably give better advice then I would, but from here "It’s advisable to go to a registration agent before the vehicle is repaired. The agent will assess if the repair needs to be certified under the supervision of a specialist repair certifier. The repair certifier is responsible for ensuring that the repair is carried out correctly." so basically go and see a repair certifier before you start repairs, he will give you better advice. You will need to provide photographic evidence of all repairs and may need to demonstrate the quality of your welds. Some parts may require a specialist to do the work.

Reg on hold or re-registered? If it's de-registered and you ever want to get it re-vinned you would need to get a repair cert for all the rust repairs, which may be difficult.

Yeah I've had good results with the mount shop too, they should br able to help out

Googled it and found this. Got a similar setup to this?

Never done any MS stuff so don't really know shit about specifics, but is the trigger expecting a high (+) or low (-) signal? I am guessing that it is expecting a positive voltage spike to signify the pulses, while your points (I'm assuming) are earthed so giving a negative voltage to signify the pulses. Do you have any form of voltage divider setup currently?

How solidly is your engine mounted? Does that whole unit not flex under acceleration?

Ok, still haven't made any progress on this but have a couple of other questions. The main one at the moment is what do I need to do with the breather? Currently has a setup like pictured, with the line connecting to a tee off the vacuum line to the brake booster. Can I get away with disconnecting this? Keen to avoid needing a catch can if necessary and would like to ditch this line if possible, would clean things up a bit so I just have the brake booster and dizzy advance vacuum lines

Which is it then? Saturday probably suits me best, but can make either work if I have enough notice

Thanks. Well it's currently running a weber 32/32, so surely a 40mm can't be any worse? One way to find out at least, got the carb and manifold for a reasonable price. Carb looked like it had been on the manifold for a while (fuel stains etc), so I'm hoping that they were run together