SOHC

Hello I have a 4 speed zephyr zodiac gearbox I need to shorten the input shaft as I am fitting it to an earlier ford motor, I have unbolted the front bearing retainer, my question is if now I slide the input shaft out will the syncro fall apart and drop down inside the box?

Sorry to hijack your thread but I was wondering someone I know is building up a couple of cars he has put full cages in both of them, one cage is part of a a tube chassis and is just some random design and the other is welded to the original chassis I told him you will probable never be aloud to put those cars on the road or even a track, they don't have much in the way of side intrusion bars, he thinks because the rego is on hold he can just go and get a wof when they are finished. Can you have a full cage in a road car?

That looks real nice, You got the spark plug leads nice and neat, I had a Falcon ute with lake pipes and a 302 Cleveland, lumpy cam, it was Honorably loud, then I got a 3" system with a flowmaster 50 series muffler witch sounded like crap not at all like a v8. I reckon 2 X 2 1/4" system with glass pack mufflers with tail pipes pointing straight out the back.

Where is a good place in auckland to go to get a block de rusted?, It was hot tanked a few times as it was full of black sludge and carbon, the water jackets are still full of crap, I had it pressure tested, a sleeve put in one bore and it decked. then it sat in the shed for a wile and it is covered in light rust everywhere. Should it be dipped in some kind of acid?

It cost me $50 for 500 mls from that auto paint place in Henderson,

Yeah, I have several complete front clips for it , well just choose the best of whats there, Yea it welded not to bad, I think its some kind of cast steel as opposed to Iron tho or some kind of blend as it sparks when you grind it unlike carst iron but its not like normal steel either It looked like it welded quit well, it might be malleable white iron or something,

Holey crap the lobes have nealy gone, must have had no valve lift at all. My folks 1981 Civic had the same problem

Thats a pretty cool project you have, the Chev and Ford Tudors are cool looking cars, do you have a front for it? they should be easy to find and cheep unlike the Ford parts of that vintage. did you weld a steel flange to that cast iron exhaust manifold?

You can transport up to 250 liters of gas with out any hassle from the law

I always wanted to build a setup like this, I started in 2005 but had most of the half finished parts and the turbo stolen when my car was parked on the side of the road over night.

I have some 2l extractors witch have had the flange cut off but still have the flange if your looking for something to mod?

Where did you get those plastic clips that are holding the hydro hand brake lines?

That Copper nickel tube is very expensive but it dosn't rust and you can bent it with your hands, I think steel bundy is cheaper but much harder to work with.

Spoke with someone today and he sed the same as what you have,the master cylinder delivers pressure to the rear brakes before the front so don't want to mess that up witch is another reason not to revers the lines. Going to dig the R/P valve out of the M/C and fit inline ones and hope it works

Be aware of high viscosity oil, in my XF falcon the cam shaft drives the dizzy witch has a hex shaft coming out of the bottom witch drives the oil pump, I was using 25w70 oil witch put such a strain on the pump it broke the bottom off the dizzy shaft witch stoped driving the oil pump.

Did you miss this bit mate? Even though the rear port may have a residual pressure valve , chances are that the bore of the master cylinder is stepped, so you will run into issues. same size bore right down,

That is an option but I would have to destroy the valve I think

Most people recommended me to use the HQ master cylinder as it is a good size for the old ford brakes, but yes disks on the back is a bit strange, but no one can tell me should i cross over the brake lines? I could tell you how it works out soon, but I broke my tube flaring tool

Nar the front drum brakes are self self energizing, don't need a booster. An adjustable proportioning valve fitted in the rear brake line will fix the balance issues

Here are my front brakes, 54 customline, there pritty big By rudolphtec at 2012-04-20

I mean Juice as in hydraulic, Couldn't afford proper Ford Deuce Coup style brakes, but yer drums on the front and disks on the back, hope i can run the master cylinder with the lines going in revere. The car originally had mechanical brakes, now they run on juice

Its fine, alot of hotrods have Jag diffs and Ford Juce brakes still on the front

If your talking about a Triumph 2000 2500, it probably has worn big end and main bearings. my 72 and my 75 did this, put in some Moryes heavy duty oil stabilizer or Penrite 27 W 70. Don't worry my 75 had a heavy bearing knock and low oil pressure and ran for years

I was wondering could I run it the other way round? as one port has a residual pressure valve, I want that line to go to my drum brakes