sheepers Posted August 21, 2023 Share Posted August 21, 2023 680 is the highest strength but also has the best gap filling capabilities. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GregT Posted August 21, 2023 Share Posted August 21, 2023 4 hours ago, tortron said: Ever had the welds crack, maybe due to different expansion rates? Maybe not a problem when the weights go in from the side, some v8ss throw them out and is suggested to weld a bit of steel over the top jnstead, but I think this is when they put them in the circumference of the Web rather than the side The weld recommendation comes from one of the world's leading 2 stroke tuners - not me. He regularly uses mallory metal for balancing and invariably tack welds it in. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Goat Posted September 7, 2023 Author Share Posted September 7, 2023 Making progress. I ended up using the original crank web and just used bearing retainer to hold the bearing on. Worst case it will spin and damage the already damaged crank. Consider this practice. I also used retaining compound to hold in the mallory weights. This seemed to lock them in good. Note that although loose, they couldnt actually come out, so even if they come loose again they won't fall out. With the crank all true within 0.02mm. It was all ready to nip up the bottom end! Setting final bottom end clearance on the last web: Prepping cases, Cleaning, cleaning, chasing all threads and more cleaning: Now I could sit the goodies in the case checking for function and binding as i go: Couple of dots of bearing retainer: And a fuck up on my part, who can spot it: All together ready for torquing: All nipped up: Goes through all the gears, crank spins freely, and kickstarter works. Polishing up sidecovers as they go on. And need to assemble the clutch etc. But that should all go well. Next step to pick up freshly powdercoated frame and start reassembling the bike. Might be on track for some summer hoons! 7 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GregT Posted September 7, 2023 Share Posted September 7, 2023 Those things and the similar 500 have a nasty trick. If the kickstart gear seizes on it's shaft, the whole assembly including the kickstart pedal can spin at the speed of the gear in the box. I'm told it can be spectacular - and painful. Moral is to never let the oil level in the box get too low. Good progress. Well done. 2 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Goat Posted September 7, 2023 Author Share Posted September 7, 2023 Thanks! Its all learning. Definitely learned some lessons already. And have a more robust plan for the other H1 rebuild. Biggest win is I'm no longer scared of pressing cranks apart, pulling bearings, and truing. Was pretty good towards the end in knowing where to hit to get desired changes. The actual only pain was these mallory weights, it looks like they were cast in the crank, they weren't press in slugs. Every web i had to give the bash to true, the slugs came undone (very slightly). Loctite seemed to firm them back up, and they couldn't actually fall out. Next crank I rebuild, I'll take the cast weights out, and press in some equal weight tungsten slugs. That should remove this issue completly. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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