JustHarry Posted April 3, 2020 Share Posted April 3, 2020 How bads the clear? Have you just got some big cliff hangers? Or are there dry areas aswell. At least runs/cliffhangers can be scraped off and flat and buffed back. Time consuming but do able Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spencer Posted April 3, 2020 Share Posted April 3, 2020 Yeah you can save it, watch some youtube videos if needed of how pros tackle fixing clear. I have made a mess of clear in the past and wet sanded it back and put more clear down a few days later, its not ideal but its not a sin. I mean really all the hard work is done getting it flat and in paint, whats a few more days of work in lock down to get it super slick. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BlownCorona Posted April 4, 2020 Author Share Posted April 4, 2020 I don't 100% know what you mean by dry areas, but I don't think if got that. Just went too heavy/slow/close ect. I am pretty confident I can smooth it off, hopefully without needing to put more clear on but not against that either. Only problem is I don't have the sandpaper, so might be an after lockdown job which sucks but ohwell Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JustHarry Posted April 4, 2020 Share Posted April 4, 2020 The longer you leave it the better at this point. They clear will still be quite soft in the run. I'd be leaving it at least a week before touching it otherwise it just ends up making a bigger problem . 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BlownCorona Posted April 4, 2020 Author Share Posted April 4, 2020 Yup even assuming that it came out perfect I was looking to leave it for a couple weeks before even reassembling it. So I'm not too worried at this point. Any tricks to tell when the run has gone hard on the inside? Or just leave it an excessive amount of time. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spencer Posted April 4, 2020 Share Posted April 4, 2020 MIx up like 4mm of paint and see how long until its hard. I have used clear in the past that you can sand super quick, it all depends. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BlownCorona Posted April 4, 2020 Author Share Posted April 4, 2020 That's an excellent idea, will do Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JustHarry Posted April 4, 2020 Share Posted April 4, 2020 What I do is cut the top off a run before I sand it. I do this with a razor blade with some masking tape folded over the ends so you dont have a corner to dig into the clear. And with the blade just lent slightly forward scrape the run . This is time consuming... but it stops you sanding the clear around the run and having low spots or worse rub through around the run . Then you have to repaint and do blends and with a metallic like that will suck big time. One the run is all but scraped off . I'll use a hard rubber block and 1500 and sand it till it's nice and flat and any Mark's from the razor blade are gone. 2000 over top of that or 3000 on a da sander.  You can buff 1500 but it's much nicer and quicker to buff 2000/3000 I'm sure as you've already found out no part of this is "quick and easy". If your patient and take your time the results show 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JustHarry Posted April 4, 2020 Share Posted April 4, 2020 Also since you've done it in your garage theres no bake cycle ..... So the more sunlight you can give it in the next week or so the better. All 2 pack paints clear included need to get up to a pretty high temp like 50 degrease (not totally sure with out looking at data sheets) before they will cure properly. Time is not good enough. So leave it in the sun for as long and as often as you can.  Also what color is that? Looks fucking amazing Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BlownCorona Posted April 4, 2020 Author Share Posted April 4, 2020 I do have two 2400w industrial fan heaters, if I moved these around and pointed them directly at panel by panel, would this be a good idea? Have never heard about the heat being a requirement before! The colour is bmw sepang bronze (a32) and I absolutely adore it. I came across the colour when I wanted to paint rims for my old audi s4 the work/rays matte bronze and have always wanted to paint a whole car. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JustHarry Posted April 4, 2020 Share Posted April 4, 2020 Dunno if I'd point a big heater directly at a painted panel..... risk getting it too hot. Giving it plenty of time in the sun will be more than enough.  Total credit where credit it due. Looks awesome . Hope the metallic went on alright. Can often be a trick to get dark metallics on without them going patchy / mottley I know I've redone my share of bonnets and boots because the metallic looked like shit.  It is 100% reward when it all turns out good though. Look forward to seeing it at some monthly meets  Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tortron Posted April 4, 2020 Share Posted April 4, 2020 2k hardens by a chemical reaction It will happen faster with increased temperature. But is not required, it just speeds it up. Too cold and the solvents won't evaporate from the paint fast enough and give a poor finish Too hot and you can harden the outer layer and trap solvent inside  Takes about a month for a paint job to be truly hardened 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BlownCorona Posted April 4, 2020 Author Share Posted April 4, 2020 The metallic went down better than I could have imagined, just the clear went to shit. It's prety bad, the photos don't show it up that much/have only photographed good angles, but you can look through the runs and see the panels are dead straight so that's awesome. And I'm really hoping that with yet some more sanding it really will look as good as hoped it will. I think it will.  I'm also pleased with how the bronze works with the blue interior. And am undecided on wheel centre colour. Initially I was going to paint them r32 gtr gun metal grey, as a mate painted his r34 rims this bronze on my recommendation and the colour combo looks great. But open to suggestions.  Really need to clean all the sanding dust of them as is and see what I think. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BlownCorona Posted April 4, 2020 Author Share Posted April 4, 2020 i might give this trick a nudge. seems to be pretty awesome at protecting the good bits around the run  i think ill give it a go on a more inconspicuous spot first. but looks like a great trick, and i watched a lot of this guys vids to (fail) at learning good techniques  Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BlownCorona Posted April 4, 2020 Author Share Posted April 4, 2020 currently watching this much longer video about the same trick/more info. he did say on flatter areas hed stick with the razor. he does a good job about making me not feel so shit about getting runs though, "if you dont get a run every now and then, your not trying hard enough or your not putting it on wet enough" 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JustHarry Posted April 4, 2020 Share Posted April 4, 2020 Yeah runs are just part of painting. We call the paint depth indicators at work, they're so you know you've got enough paint on 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BlownCorona Posted April 4, 2020 Author Share Posted April 4, 2020 i got quite alot of indication. but shit does it look good in the sun 1 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bellicose Posted April 10, 2020 Share Posted April 10, 2020 On 04/04/2020 at 16:11, JustHarry said:  You can buff 1500 but it's much nicer and quicker to buff 2000/3000 1200 is easy as. On 04/04/2020 at 16:14, JustHarry said: All 2 pack paints clear included need to get up to a pretty high temp like 50 degrease (not totally sure with out looking at data sheets) before they will cure properly. Time is not good enough. Nope. On 04/04/2020 at 17:23, tortron said: 2k hardens by a chemical reaction It will happen faster with increased temperature. But is not required, it just speeds it up. Too cold and the solvents won't evaporate from the paint fast enough and give a poor finish Too hot and you can harden the outer layer and trap solvent inside  Takes about a month for a paint job to be truly hardened On to it. On 04/04/2020 at 22:46, BlownCorona said: currently watching this much longer video about the same trick/more info. he did say on flatter areas hed stick with the razor. he does a good job about making me not feel so shit about getting runs though, "if you dont get a run every now and then, your not trying hard enough or your not putting it on wet enough" Pretty much. Although i have many solutions when i get runs, but those two vid's will help ya sort it. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BlownCorona Posted April 10, 2020 Author Share Posted April 10, 2020 Much appreciated dude! I've got so much respect for you guys who do this professionally. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rusty360 Posted April 11, 2020 Share Posted April 11, 2020 Another tip I was told by a good mate in the game was to sand in the quiet this way you can tell if you pick up a bit of scratch grit. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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