rxtoy Posted August 7, 2016 Share Posted August 7, 2016 so i had my RS41 Crown out for a cruise through the hills a few weeks back, it got a pretty good thrashing brake wise and on the way home random corners started seizing on (one at a time). i parked it up at the in laws because it was pissing down by then and not safe to drive it home. figured it was probably the brake master blocking up with shit because thats the only thing i could think of that would seize on individual corners at separate times. Went back and pulled the master off a couple of days later, brought it home, pulled it apart and there was a bunch of corrosion and shit in there, but the seals and bore and piston all looked fine. Cleaned everything up and put it back together and then ignored it because i was working on the hilux instead and i thought i had the problem sorted, just needed to put it back together and bleed everything up so today i went and did that. hungover. much sweating and banging head and getting dirt in eye. fun times. bled up nicely, probably the easiest car i've ever done. ran a container of brake fluid through the lines to get all the old crud out and pedal feel was nice. backed it up the driveway, then let it roll down and tested the brakes. THEY FEEL TERRIBLE!!! they're not soft, the pedal is just moving up and down as the wheel rotates, like one up and down per revolution. its a pretty significant amount, i'd say at least a quarter of pedal travel. fuck. someone suggested that i've warped a drum, or more than one. seems like a definite possibility. is there any other thing it could be before i pull all 4 drums off and give them a skim? i'd just do that and see how it goes after that but I'm running out of time before the in laws get home and its meant to be gone by then so i thought i should check other options cheers Matt Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
64valiant Posted August 7, 2016 Share Posted August 7, 2016 Go get them skimmed. My vw ones are like this atm and I really need to skim them/tight hub nut to make sure there's no play. Good luck. I just use my engine brakes. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Yowzer Posted August 7, 2016 Share Posted August 7, 2016 The joys of drums, when they get hot, they expand. If your auto-adjusters are working properly, they can adjust out to take up the extra clearance, but once the drums cool and contract they can lock the brakes on. Let them cool with the brakes on, and your drums go oval. Throw a bit of rain water in there for even more uneven heating-cooling and yah, warp city. 4 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rxtoy Posted August 7, 2016 Author Share Posted August 7, 2016 Shitballs, skim or replace are my only options? I actually know exactly what happened now that you put it like that. I was parked in the inlaws steep driveway while waiting for the missus to grab the dog, handbrake needs adjusting so I sat there for ten minutes with my foot on the brake pedal. At least I can skim them myself at work, hopefully they're not to thin Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Yowzer Posted August 7, 2016 Share Posted August 7, 2016 They've probably already been skimmed, or are well worn, which would be why they went wonky so easily. Best bet is new if you can get them Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kiwibirdman Posted August 8, 2016 Share Posted August 8, 2016 Before you get too carried away with skimming check the run out with a dial gauge to make sure that is the problem. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tortron Posted August 8, 2016 Share Posted August 8, 2016 please search morris minor brakes for all your shitty single circuit brake needs has the pedal slack been adjusted recently? 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rxtoy Posted August 8, 2016 Author Share Posted August 8, 2016 Ha, I'll be checking the run out. Been running a lathe/mill for the last 8 years, I'm not just going to dive in. Hoping that I haven't warped all 4, will only skim if/what's needed Pedal slack was good, but is not at the moment. Will sort brakes and then adjust free play. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tortron Posted August 8, 2016 Share Posted August 8, 2016 I ask because if there is no free play, then the master cylinder will start to pressurise the brakes and lock them on Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kiwibirdman Posted August 8, 2016 Share Posted August 8, 2016 Ha, I'll be checking the run out. Been running a lathe/mill for the last 8 years, I'm not just going to dive in. Hoping that I haven't warped all 4, will only skim if/what's needed Pedal slack was good, but is not at the moment. Will sort brakes and then adjust free play. All good. I hate it when people jump in and do stuff that is unnecessary and costs time and money for no good reason..........especially when its me. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rxtoy Posted August 8, 2016 Author Share Posted August 8, 2016 I ask because if there is no free play, then the master cylinder will start to pressurise the brakes and lock them on There was normal free play until after the big run we did, which is where it started locking up. I'm not sure why this happened, but the master cylinder had a bunch of shit in there. I've been driving it round for years with no issues, rain and shine, although this is probably the biggest workout the brakes have had. There is some free play at the moment, it doesn't feel like quite enough but it's hard to tell with the brakes doing what they're doing. Will check/skim drums then check it again Cheers Matt Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rxtoy Posted August 8, 2016 Author Share Posted August 8, 2016 All good. I hate it when people jump in and do stuff that is unnecessary and costs time and money for no good reason..........especially when its me. Ha, I'm guilty of this in quite a few cases but pretty broke at the moment so being ultra careful with what I replace. Plus if I keep it I want to go discs so brake money is wasted money Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rxtoy Posted August 10, 2016 Author Share Posted August 10, 2016 I think I worked out my problem. Of course, it was when I pulled the 4th drum off, so I figured I'll take them all into work and clock them all up anyway. Easiest drums I've ever removed At least it looks good! Can I glue these back on with something? Or pay someone? I really haven't got time/money to find new shoes and linings when it's getting a disc swap semi soon anyway Cheers Matt 4 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tortron Posted August 10, 2016 Share Posted August 10, 2016 hahaha Rusti will rivit them on im sure 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
64valiant Posted August 10, 2016 Share Posted August 10, 2016 wow thats a top effort! i really hope my vw beetle ones are just warped in this case... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sr2 Posted August 11, 2016 Share Posted August 11, 2016 Remember to radius the shoes to fit if you're machining the drums. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SiRge Posted August 11, 2016 Share Posted August 11, 2016 Abc in Wellington can redo brake shoes for 60 for 4 shoes (these were 7" drums so would be slightly more expensive no doubt). But pretty cheap no doubt Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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