stylez Posted May 21, 2015 Share Posted May 21, 2015 So my Wolseley decided to start pissing out oil from the rear seal, like, literally streaming out at idle. So I'm thinking, scroll seal is buggered. However, I noticed she was a bit lumpy last couple of days, and I then noticed small puffs of black smoke at idle in time with the lumpiness of the running. Leaned her out a bit, much better, no more smoke. Now, the oil that's been pissing out, smells a little of fuel. It still feels oily but also seems quite thin. So now I'm thinking, that due to being too rich, the unburned fuel has been diluting the oil. I understand this can damage a seal, but I have to wonder if it's just that the oil has become that much thinner, that the scroll seal is letting some past, and isn't necessarily buggered. I'm guessing the only real way to find out would be to drain her completely and fill with fresh oil, filter, and see if she still leaks ? Just wondering if anybody has any experience with these scroll seals, and if my theory could make sense. Cheers. Edit : So I also plugged a vent tube, because PO removed standard air cleaner and it was occasionally firing a little oil out of it. Turns out a scroll seal does rely on some vaccum/pressure in the case, might try unplugging this vent tube also. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tim13 Posted May 21, 2015 Share Posted May 21, 2015 sounds a little optimistic , worth a try I spose . is the oil level rising ? worth checking fuel pump (engine driven ?) and breather system too because if it is getting alot of fuel in oil it is prob more than mixture being too rich Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stylez Posted May 21, 2015 Author Share Posted May 21, 2015 Electric fuel pump, vaccum/breather system bit of a.mess due to PO Fuckery. Will try figure it out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stylez Posted May 23, 2015 Author Share Posted May 23, 2015 Ok, bit of an update. Check the oil, there was none left. Fresh bottle of cheap 20w-50. Start her up, drive her round the block, park up, at idle oil leak has reduced to a drip every 7-10seconds or so. Compared to a constant stream before. Oil also feels tacky as it should and not thin as before, and doesn't smell like fuel either. So, looks like the oil was getting diluted, and making it easier to pass through the scroll seal. I'm going to go with the fact it's probably perished the seal. To what extent I don't know. Being that I can't find a seal, the next best thing is a conversion kit to convert the seal to a lip type. They're available for about $80 plus post from the UK. However, I'm tempted to try a bottle of that rear main seal leak stop from rislone(?) or whoever makes it. It's "supposed" to rejuvenate the seal. Anyone tried that stuff ? Of course I'm skeptical, but wondering if it's worth a try in the short term until I have my garage built and I can convert it to a lip seal. Any wise words ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frosty Posted May 24, 2015 Share Posted May 24, 2015 SEAL IN A BOTTLE WILL NOT WORK WITH A FELT REAR MAIN SEAL, you can make it like new with a wash to remove any crap and reload with grease. they can fall apart when you wash them, they basicly rot if they sit , you can get replacement felt through most bearing outfits. Using a lip type seal may not fix the issue for long as the cranks have a habit of forming a groove where the seal touches the crank and what English car worth it's salt doesn't have an oil puddle under it? 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ta63-1uzze Posted May 24, 2015 Share Posted May 24, 2015 don't stick any kind of stop leak in it, that shit is just for emergency, that shit does more harm than good. unplug the ventilation system! and get a catch tank, if you plug up the ventilation your pressurizing the engine via blow by from the rings (normal operation) the pressure is forcing the oil past the seal .this is your problem right here. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stylez Posted May 24, 2015 Author Share Posted May 24, 2015 Thanks. Yea, I was skeptical about the stop leak shit. Hence I didn't buy it. Have unplugged that breather pipe as well, I didn't think it was doing much as there's another vent out of valve cover going to carbs. Apparently it was. When you say a wash and reload with grease, could you elaborate ? Are we talking, remove the seal, wash with some speciality solution, and re soak it with grease and re fit ? I'm not fussed about it dripping a normal amount of oil , but being that it was pissing out before, and has slowed to a drip now I'm still concerned as it was dripping a lot less if it all beforehand. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stylez Posted May 24, 2015 Author Share Posted May 24, 2015 Am I looking at something like this ? If so, I understand now. The felt can be bought, soaked in oil, and re packed into the seal. Sounds too easy. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
piazzanoob Posted May 24, 2015 Share Posted May 24, 2015 All seals over time get hard and brittle and tend to fall apart when getting pulled out and plus having thin oil makes it worse so personally as much of a mission it is just to do a seal I would just pull the gearbox out and take the seal down to your local seal shop or go to seal imports in Christchurch or Dunedin otherwise your just going to have get the kit from the uk. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Muncie Posted May 26, 2015 Share Posted May 26, 2015 Do the seal dude run 20/50 and a good dose of moreys. A catch can and oversized breather will help too but a new seal will probably cure it Anyway. Cool old rigs wolseleys and i like the 6/110 out of all of them really due to being halfway between a Bentley and a 57 chev..... seal is toast i see an LS1 being a viable economic repair option. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stylez Posted May 26, 2015 Author Share Posted May 26, 2015 Cheers, yea am running 20w-50. Concrete pad for the garage I'm building should be getting poured in next day or so, so hopefully won't be too long until I've got a proper workspace to do the seal in. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Threeonthetree Posted May 26, 2015 Share Posted May 26, 2015 Do the seal dude run 20/50 and a good dose of moreys. A catch can and oversized breather will help too but a new seal will probably cure it Anyway. Cool old rigs wolseleys and i like the 6/110 out of all of them really due to being halfway between a Bentley and a 57 chev..... seal is toast i see an LS1 being a viable economic repair option. LS1 won't fit without some major cutting, steering box replacement and a list of other things about a mile long They are too narrow, short and cramped in the engine bay. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tortron Posted May 27, 2015 Share Posted May 27, 2015 Do they actually have a seal. You keep saying scroll seal which is usually a machined surface on the rear of the crank to tgrow oil back in. The morris minor conversion kits to put a real seal in are crap - theyvrequire alot more kqchining than mentiojed to actually do a propper job Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stylez Posted May 27, 2015 Author Share Posted May 27, 2015 I think now, that there must be a scroll seal, and a felt seal ? Who knows, it doesn't seem to be leaking fuck all anymore anyway, I'll find out when the garage gets built, concrete was poured today so pretty stoked. Since it's no longer leaking fuck all, so I'm guessing ta63-1uzze had the diagnosis here, plugged vent hole causing blow by. Fuckwit award goes to me Cheers for the help guys, much appreciated. Edit : oh and got a WOF, so standby for slam. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ta63-1uzze Posted May 30, 2015 Share Posted May 30, 2015 hay man, it’s no trouble ay, this is why we are all here, to help and to be helped. it’s an older engine, they have far more blow by than a newer fresh built engine with new technology and tighter tolerances ,so when they can’t breathe the pressure is much higher and it will find its way out through the easiest way, ie the crank seal . I wouldn’t do the seal just yet, clean it down with any white spirits, get a spray can and try get into the bell housing if you can. Waste the shit out of it until its dripping nice and clean. Let it dry up and if it’s still dripping oil after a week or so then you know that it’s stuffed and to do the seal. Otherwise you might be doing allot of work for nothing . Soldier on man. Keep the old-school on the road ! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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