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Chris R's various honda thread including punishing modern non os daily driver updates


chris r

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Time for a front end refresh on the orthia 

All the ball joint bolts are split and  needed replacing. 

Got passenger side upright/knuckle out along with the the upper control arm. 

I grabbed a energy suspension urethane kit. I really like them /rate them. Have them all through the shuttle 

New ball joint and boot in the upper arm. Bit of heat and encouragement and the inner part of the bushing came out 

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Pressed in the new inner bushings with my press tool 

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Managed to get the lower ball joint out of the knuckle but haven't quite got it sorted yet. 

 

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  • 3 weeks later...
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Got everything reassembled and alignment was surprisingly close. 

The car feels way nicer to drive now, the old rubber was way softer than I expected. 

I've scored some better jasma stamped headers which should flow significantly better than my rangid up 4-1. I'll have to re make some of the exhaust to suit but that's not the end of the world as I can get a bit more clearance around the diff and hopefully get rid of the rattle. 

I grabbed some k series fuel injectors when I was last at pick a part. They should have a much better spray pattern and atomisation compared to the older ones I have in there now. I'm curious to see if there will be any change in economy etc with them. Will find out after the re tune once I do exhaust and fit the cams 

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Headers arrived, looks like they have been on a low car and repaired. Should flow a bunch better than what I have on the car now, wont be easily able to tell power increase from the headers alone as I'll be doing cams as well before it goes back to the dyno 

First pics are from the auction 

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Reapir looks good enough, I'll most likely need to modify that section to clear the transfer case anyway so not too worried 

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My best guess is they are Fujitsubo super ex headers 

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Tigged it up, I'm fairly rusty with a tig but hopefully it'll hold. 

Didn't end up taking much length out of the pipe in the end, only about 15 mm where the old weld was. I'll steal the flexi and flange off the other headers when it's time to fit everything. Will have to try figure out a support bracket as well 

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I'd grabbed a tank for the shuttle from pick a part as the one in it has gone rusty from sitting.

After the bullshit I went through on the crx I figured it's easier just to replace the tank 

Pick a part stabbed it right by the factory drain hole which is annoying. 

Grabbed a bit of stainless from the bin on site and cut a hole in it. Cleaned the tank

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Lots of careful tacks later 

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And a date with the grinder later 

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Can't see any holes so fingers crossed it doesn't leak 

 

 

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Got the new headers all sorted today 

Test fitted after it was welded off the car, it needed a bit more grinding but it clears the sump just 

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Trimmed back the collector and tweaked a bit of tube to suit. 

Pillaged the flanges and flexi off the old setup 

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Test fitted everything. Tacked it then welded off the car 

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Marked and drilled for the 02 bung

The holesaw was missing a few teeth to start with but really didn't like the hard weld. Ended up having to send and completely finish it off to get all the way through 

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Just clears everything, it'll only have a wideband in for the tune then the bung will go back in 

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I got sick of taking off and refitting the headers so cheated a bit with the brace and went underneath

Drilled and tapped a bit of steel and found a random bracket which fitted. It bolts up to one of the threaded holes in the gearbox where the flywheel cover goes. Couple of tacks and it should be supported enough 

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Night shift got cancelled after a few hours waiting on site. I'd just had a red bull so figured I'd make the most of being awake.

Was lazy and hoped I could get away without pulling the lower covers off. Couple of ties to hold the belt in place on exhaust cam 

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Cam caps off and b16 intake cam + gear in place 

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Caps on and everything torqued up. 

Found my feeler gauges so checked and set the lash. Half of the exhaust valves were too tight so I must have mixed some valves up when I put the head together. 

o8ZO80y.jpegThe b16 exhaust cam had some surface rust from sitting so I left the b18 exhaust cam in. A bunch of forum posts suggest the exhaust cam is the same so I'm not too worried. The tuner said no need to a adjustable gear on the exhaust side as he's only seen gains on adjusting the intake cam 

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Oh and becuse I've taken so long to finally install the cams the dyno is most likely booked out until next year 

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Gave it a quick squirt on a on ramp the other day and it really needs a tune, feels a bit flat and vtec now is very noticeable on changeover so there's power to be had midrange. 

Had a couple of issues with the flange in the 2-1 section of the header. I had ordered a close enough gasket and butchered it to suit but it blew out, tried maniseal and it lasted a bit longer. 

Had a helpful person at repco who let me have nosey through a book and found a gasket that should fit.

The gasket was on clearance for $1 so hopefully it works. If it doesn't I'll be a rough cunt and just weld it and make it a one piece header

I'm suspecting the exhaust needs another hanger as there is a bit of weight off the back of the headers and they are moving or flexing even with the rough and ready bracket I made up. 

Will see what I can can figure out on my next days off 

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Finally remembered to pick up the rocker cover for the shuttle motor. Had a couple of -10 fittings welded on for the catch can. 

It's the later model with factory coil on plug so a nice cheap easy upgrade. Still keep the sensors in the dizzy but delete the coil and ignter which keeps things simple. The tuner 3d printed a cover to replace the old cap. I've got the factory plastic for the coil wiring so it should look nice and clean 

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Did cap, rotor coil and leads on the orthia today. Sent it through a couple of puddles and got water into one of the ht leads dried it out as best I can but I suspect there was a bit of carbon tracking and it has a occasional miss. Seems to be fixed now. 

Had a quick pick a part mission looking for ac stuff for the shuttle today. 

Took a gamble that the ef sedan stuff is the same behind the dash.

The ef sedan compressor was r12 and felt fucked when I spun it. I had a look at some other newer Honda and there was a d series hrv which had a smaller r134 compressor and a allow mounting bracket not the heavy cast iron one the shuttle originally came with. Took it off and it bolted up to the earler block which was a win. 

The original ef ac condenser is a full size unit which won't work as my turbo and intercooler want to live in that space. Had a walk around and found a daihatsu condenser thats half size and should fit with a bit of butchery. Bonus is it has a integrated dessicant/receiver drier in the condenser so saves some space 

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Test fitted the HRV bracket onto the new motor (internet says newer stuff isn't backwards compatible, I did take off the torque mount bolt which would have hit the chassis) 

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Bolted it onto the motor in the shuttle and fitted the HRV compressor

The HRV high pressure hose looks like it can be moved out of the way enough to work

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The HRV Low-pressure hose looks like it'll work and clear stuff, my plan is to braize/weld the HRV hose to the Tail on the EF evaporator 

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The Daihatsu condenser looks to be a similar size to the half-size rad I have in there now, I'll need to get some more of the alloy tubing and the plan is to join it to the EF evaporator side.

I'l flip the orientation of the fan on the rad and make it a puller and with a bit of luck the condenser will be able to be mounted to the front of the rad. With a bit more luck the intercooler will fit in front of that 

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Its an easy enough job to fit the evaporator etc but past me decided the holes would be a good place to run the engine loom when I did a wire tuck so it is now a bit of a mission. Past me also deleted all the A/C related stuff from the looms too.

I had always planned on redoing the loom, looks like doing the loom has moved up the priority list a bit. I can add in the AC wiring etc and also run the boost control solenoid stuff at the same time

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There's a little less space than before but now I can figure out where the turbo wants to sit. Also featuring the rare Rover rocker cover I nabbed at pick a part a few years back

 

 

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The daihatsu condenser has a built in receiver drier with a dessicant/filter bag. Dig some digging and cross referencing and the filter bag is shared with a bunch of different modern vehicles. Have a r134 tx valve, o ring set and filter bag on the way from rockauto.

The orthia ac compressor gas started making sad noises so I've got a receiver drier on the way for it. Will keep a eye on the crv/orthia at pick a part and see if I can find a lower milage compressor 

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Nothing went bang, 3% average gain overall and a bunch in the midrange. Will upload pics and vids when I get home. 

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Stock airbox is worth 3kw up top so I'll have to look into butchering it or making something more free flowing  

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