KPR's 84 Hilux

[kpr]

Noticed a bit of play in the front diff when changing wheels awhile back. Seems  i brought rip off "johnny joints" for my front suspension links

 

The rip off ones have 2 rings of nylon (or similar plastic) either side of the ball.  and the ball looks to be made out of some chinesesium metal, which has rusted and carved out the nylon.  the proper ones have a hardened ball which runs in a single  piece of hard urethane

Brought the legit ones  to replace all the 3 link ends.    But first  redone the panhard setup.  The panhard mounts were a bit on the light side and were showing signs of fatigue, which would get even worse going to a more solid bush.   First beefed up the diff end, which doubles as the bumpstop stop pad,  rather than a 2nd part being tagged on the top like before

Chassis  end;  had to almost start from scratch, mostly due to the body of the johnny joint being bigger diameter than the bush setup that was on it.  also plated chassis since there is quite a lot of leverage trying to tear the mount off.

new panhard vs the old.

Done,    Pretty much a race car around the corners now...

next up replace all the 3 link ends.  plus fix the bent one..

[kpr]

Righto starlet was too easy,   How much power does this thing make.    Engine basically stock smallport 4azge. with touch more compression.    Running 14psi boost.  31" tyres,  road tune no tweaks

Place bet:

 

[kpr]

Sorted a few little issues, and played with ignition timing.   Looking better now.    200kw  on only 13psi

 

[kpr]

Have done heaps more testing 

firstly   found the airbox itself is a restriction.   gains about 5kw  and runs a bit more boost with air box removed.  its either the way the air enters, or not enough volume around air filter 

 

Rest of these runs are with airbox on..

Thought it would be a good idea to swap the head that came off starlet onto this. which has more port work.    seems i had done more work on the head that come off the truck than i thought. 

Red line best run on original head.
Blue first run on starlet head.
Green cam timing adjusted on starlet head.     

bit of a fail/waste of my life, but managed to get it close to what it was. can see that this head seems to hang on a bit longer,  but is a touch worse everywhere else.    would rather keep as much midrange as possible

Then went full retard.    had some 193b (280 ish 9mm ish) kelford cams hanging around.   which are mild ish NA cams.  not meant for turbo stuff.

Green: best from above on starlet head.  
Blue:   193b cams  with cam timing roughly adjusted to best possible compromise.  220kw on only 12psi is pretty sweet, but too much midrange loss.
Red:   I almost didn't try this, because i thought it wouldn't work: 193b inlet cam. Stock exhaust cam.  matched the stock cams and 20kw more peak!

Only issue is, its junk until about 2000rpm  and wont idle at all under 1200rpm.  not ideal in a 4wd.     99% sure its the inlet manifold, which was spose to be thrown in the bin before i even built this truck, due to vibration and cracking issues

 

 

TL;DR  / too much @Roman  Dave Science.   First dyno run vs last :

 

 

 

 

[kpr]

Stock cams back in for now since it idles on 2 cylinders at 2000rpm.   At least until i get motivated to make a new inlet manifold.

finally cracked 2 hundy on stock cams with few more tweaks. still only 13psi boost

 

[kpr]

.

[kpr]

wow having a mare.    just some more paddock hacking.    looks so tame in the vids.  ask someone whos been in it.. and they will tell you how they wish they hadn't.  @Stu@Snoozin

[kpr]

This thing is broken  also.    have started to fix it.

This is front suspension lower link, chassis end mount. its meant to be parallel to the chassis not bent down at the back.   the force from the front link is mostly pulling straight forward. the mount has plently of strength to handle that, but it also pulls down slightly, and yeh bendy bendy

this is the brace that runs up the inside of the chassis.   weld held up fine  but has tore a hole in the chassis, which is maybe 2-3mm thick.   other side is fine as the braces run  to the top of the chassis,  this side was cut down as handbrake stuff was in the way.

 

Managed to bend it back  to where it needed to be, by putting the weight of the truck on the mount and using massive bit of pipe too leaver it back into place. 
Then plated the chassis and  boxed in the mount,  plus added another brace along the bottom side  on both sides of the truck.
wasn't much fun tig welding left handed and almost blind under there.  but is stuck good.

yep i changed that grease nipple so it doesn't get torn off

 

One of the front lower links has been bent for awhile. plus had to replace  the joints, with the proper johnny joints i brought ages ago ^ ^.   Decided to remake all 3  links.
New links are a size smaller pipe  but are made from  4130.  old ones are some cheese water pipe.  so yeh new ones should be easily as strong and are lighter.   drilled some speed holes in the  retardedly overkill hand brake linkage,  to make myself feel better about welding more stuff to the chassis.  
front uni of front driveshaft was smoked also.  just looked old and corroded, rather than not being strong enough, so wacked in a new gen toyota joint.

 

White is the old top link ^

 

[kpr]

 

Do a wheelie bro

[kpr]

So yeah, took this to the beach.  About to go out to the shed and watch it dissolve into a pile of rust.  but for now a video:

Gearing isn't the best for sand. but other than that and melting the clutch once, it went real well

[kpr]

Firstly thanks for removing the rogue @dave from my thread.  ban that guy

Couldn't be bothered getting off the couch the other day so made a video.   Kinda looks like a 12 year olds school project  and if you've been following this thread, would have seen most of it before.   should be slightly amusing none the less

 

[kpr]

Why are the starlet itb's in this thread?   

Because the the inlet manifold on the hilux sucks.    Not power wise, it seems to work good.    but it vibrates, cracks  and the big plenum  doesn't work with what im trying to do.  stalls out easy and any kind of cam setup other than factory, even cam timing changes on stock cams makes it a whole lot worse.  wont idle on all cylinders and stalls real easy.    not ideal for 4wding

itb's  will solve the big plenum issue,  also will be able to isolate the plenum from the engine with some short silicone joiners. to solve any vibration issues. 

So had those bellmouths in above picture from another project,   recycling;

 

extended them by welding some thick wall tube onto the bottom

machined a taper into them to suit the 52mm throttles and slightly adjusted the bellmouth so has bit more of an elliptical shape.

machined some of the excess off them. could have taken whole lot more off but was over it by this  stage.  
will probably test them on the starlet before welding them into plenum

 

[kpr]

Made a start on the plenum

I tested the trumpets on the starlet.     red line is straight pipe the same length as the bellmouths (blue).    Pretty much no difference till airflow demand is high.  after that the bellmouths win.    Down on power about 10kw to what starlet makes due to runner length.  Some goose put a massive suspension tower in the way, so stuck with this length on the hilux

 

 

[kpr]

Got another throttle body adapter plate made in ali this time, thanks to @Stu .   Plus some more throttles, which still need more mods, but done enough for test fitting.

Been working through some clearance issues.  chopped up and shortened water outlet as fouls on the front throttle,  it welded horrible because old cast ali, but should be good enough.  
alternator is in the way,  think have a solution sorted with a smaller alt and modding the bottom water pipe so it sits closer to the block.

Blah, pictures:

 

 

 

[kpr]

Spent another day machining stuff.   Finished tapered tubes.  Machined more off the back of trumpets, as was pointless weight.   Made some bosses  to make a new vac chamber which sits on the under side of the throttles. Cant use plastic bmw one (in bottom picture) since have moved the throttles closer together
 

[kpr]

Tested plenum on kp,   looses power  with side panel on.  after cutting stuff up,  seems taper tubes or slot aren't a restriction, as does the same with them removed.  have come to conclusion kp engine doesn't like a plenum, or at least one this size.  possibly the bellmouths need more space to the roof of plenum.    either way cant do much about it.  so going to weld it up and see what it does on hilux

 

 got bit more done on throttles,  bosses welded on vac rail.

Throttle plates etc modified and back in. linkage rail re-drilled.  pretty much everything needs modifying / butchering to get the throttles close enough together.   Found a plug on aliepress that vaguely sounded like the right one for the tps. after a few dollars and the usual wait it  actually fits

Dug out this smaller 55amp alternator,  fits on current lower bracket, will fit up close to block once have added more adjustment to top bracket.   
Was pretty toasted, so chucked some new parts at it.  Never really attempted to rebuild an alternator before, was pretty easy

Even found a sightly bigger pulley in my pile of junk alternators,

 

[kpr]

Waiting on parts to finish the throttle & plenum setup.   so pulled the radiator and intercooler out to modify the intercooler pipe.  
Then went full retard and cut up the radiator.   cut a bit off the end and relocated the  outlet pipes

 Why?   more room for other stuff and that part of the radiator was mostly blocked off from airflow anyways. 
Redone the turbo side pipe, as well as the inlet side.  the pile of pipes at bottom of pic  is the  old stuff that come off it.

 Yep that cast elbow looks horrible for flow ^    thats why i chopped it up, so goes  from 2.5"  to about same area as 3" pipe.

The intercooler is on the list to go in the bin.  because is heavy and junk.  I brought the cheapest one i could get when originally built the truck.  Staying for now but will go to a tube and fin one day.

2.5" hot side

3" cold side.   old was 2.5"  .    even though the pipe is bigger have cut the length down quite a bit.  so probably sill less area in the pipework than the old setup

 

 

[kpr]

Taking way longer and changing more stuff than planed.   Although thats fairly normal with this thing.  

Fuel filters were in the way of new intake.  so have run new fuel lines. mounted new filter by the fuel tank. line splits in engine bay for the 2 rails.  reused and remounted the old hard line feed for the return. 

Not much to look at here. pretty clean under there, because all the dirt is now in my eyes.   ali exhaust hanging in there.

  Pulled the transfer case mounted e brake off.   handbrake cable doesn't fit with throttles.   that was enough of an excuse to throw that junk in the bin.  Its heavy and have hated on it since i got it.   will be no handbrake guy for awhile.  untill i get motivated to make a new setup.   chucked a new driveshaft seal in while was there,  since leaky

Throttles assembled and balanced   ready to go on

vac  rail finished.  air bybass on back.  map,bov,fpr on front.   some butchery of an old throttle body welded on bottom for throttle linkage

throttles bolted on for good.  fuel rails and lines mocked up  ready to go.   yeah i cheaped out on fancy banjo fittings.

Moved ps reso  to other side of engine bay  and redone all  the lines,  as they were pretty janky before.   moving the reso along with new intercooler pipes,  frees up the whole corner in front of the turbo for a better airbox setup.  that someday may make.

hmmm wires,  not keen

 

 

 

 

[kpr]

This is running again.  with some some mixed results.  

Makes the same power  as the old setup, with almost identical power curve.  This is good, wasn't expecting it to make anymore power. runs nice.
Swapped in the big inlet cam. As on old setup made another 15kw on same boost, but ran junk. (see top of this page)   Ran better on this setup but still rough idle. Now where it gets weird; Had to add a decent amount more fuel, but only had very small power gains  over stock cams.  Tried all sorts, no dice.  Still unsure whats going on. Ended up swapping back to stock cams.

One major benefit  of the itb setup is  how well it runs down at idle.   before with the big plenum and single throttle it would stall out real easy. much below 1000rpm and would just die.  now it will go right down to 500rpm and keep chugging along.
Have also added a simple on/off air bypass solenoid.  programmed for idle up on cold start and when fans come on.
Also doesn't vibrate it self to bits like the old setup.

Still need to fix and tidy some stuff up. plus finish the tune.  then im a gonna go destroy the paddock

Next up  steering servo for full scale rc hilux:

 

 

 

[kpr]

Same shit as the last few posts.   skip to 1:30  if you just want to see some skids.

Have heard many horror stories tuning itb turbo setups.   But was pretty straight forward once had it setup in the right mode and got bugs ironed out.     Fuel equation set as MAP, with main fuel  map spanned in tps vs rpm. this takes into account the manifold pressure and adds fuel with boost.   Also an afr target table  set in map vs rpm, so it knows what percentage fuel to add at given manifold pressure.    
Still little bits and peices to finish and bugs to iron out.  otherwise runs good