HighLUX Posted February 10, 2014 Share Posted February 10, 2014 How does 1 do such a thing. Multi meter + probe on the output? - probe on the housing to complete the circuit? and something needs to be done with the plug pin from to the charge light? Feel free to tell me im wrong Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
peteretep Posted February 10, 2014 Share Posted February 10, 2014 you want to test that the voltage regulator is working? max amps? that dash light works? I've done it before with a drill on the nose of the alternator, tested that it could put out some amps, below the limit of my multimeter, found out that the no charge light didnt work and that the voltage regulator still worked if you wanted to check max amps you would need a good multimeter and to get the drive speed correct, also a powerful drill i imagine Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HighLUX Posted February 10, 2014 Author Share Posted February 10, 2014 Rattle gun spins it up sweet. Basically sold one that was working fine on the car I removed it from and hes returned it saying its no good which I find strange Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
peteretep Posted February 10, 2014 Share Posted February 10, 2014 a battery, a multimeter, drill and some wires is all you need to be able to test it, and a diagram showing which connection does what you will want to make sure that the rattle gun/drill actually spins it to an rpm that is within its normal operating range Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Yowzer Posted February 10, 2014 Share Posted February 10, 2014 A 70A alternator pumps out about 1000 watts, so you'd need a drill of at least that power to test it up to its max output. Tell him his belt is slipping. It's probably the cause of his issues. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Yowzer Posted February 10, 2014 Share Posted February 10, 2014 Clamp meters are good for measuring alternator outputs as they can usually read at least 400A, whereas an inline DMM is good for 10 (sometimes 20). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnnyfive Posted February 10, 2014 Share Posted February 10, 2014 Ask your local sparky to pop it on their bench test doofer. They might be nice. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HighLUX Posted February 10, 2014 Author Share Posted February 10, 2014 Probably do that/tight as scottish jew Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nominal Posted February 10, 2014 Share Posted February 10, 2014 I tested one today, using a spare (charged) battery. B+ wire to battery +, random 12v lamp from battery + to D+ on alt. Case ground to battery -. Used a angle grinder (with a stripping disc on it) to spin it a bit. Light went out. Called it good (for now). Now have to figure out wiring into a 1964 Mercury with no charge light. Hmm. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eke_zetec_RWD Posted February 10, 2014 Share Posted February 10, 2014 Hyjack, can I spin a alternator backwards in my race car? I can't see why not.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
peteretep Posted February 10, 2014 Share Posted February 10, 2014 just run it up like mentioned above to check the voltage regulator will be ok with it, bearings should be fine Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Yowzer Posted February 10, 2014 Share Posted February 10, 2014 Everything runs through diode packs so it shouldn't give the slightest fuck, except the fan will be spinning backwards and you'll have fucked airflow through it and it'd probably cook itself. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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