SportPac'89 Posted December 3, 2013 Share Posted December 3, 2013 I have just rebuilt a sohc 8v 4g63 for a l300 sportpac. I cant get it running and i think it is the timing on the distributor, as im unsure what the timing marks are for it. On the gear it has a mark on the side faceing the dizzy, and a mark on the same tooth but on the side faceing the head. Im not sure what to line this up with, and which mark- as the two on the dizzy gear are not directly opposite each other since its not a straight cut gear. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ogre Posted December 3, 2013 Share Posted December 3, 2013 Ive always just got the thing to TDC then lined up the No1 on the dizzy cap. Then just set things from their. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OSM Garage Posted December 3, 2013 Share Posted December 3, 2013 Put the engine at TDC, number 1 firing. There is a dot on the dizzy gear and a line on the shaft of the dizzy. Line these marks up. There is a line where the stud pokes thru when you tighten up the dizzy. When you slot the dizzy in the hole make sure the stud is in line with this mark. Trying to find pictures but its proving difficult Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
77magnum13hundy Posted December 3, 2013 Share Posted December 3, 2013 If you know where TDC is on the motor (screw driver down cylinder 1 plug hole) maybe take the rocker cover off to see what the valves are doing. number 3 4 cylinder should be on the rock between the exhaust valve coming up and the inlet valve going down. no 1 should be doing nothing cos thats the compression stroke and the spark should happen then. with the dizzy in the correct guessed place... and the dizzy cap off... the rotor on the dizzy and the no.1 plug spot on the cap should match up once the cap is put back in place.... this is only if you dont have any marks to go off. This is how i do it and not necessarily the correct way but yeh...if it aint in the right place move it a notch either back or forward and then try it... dial it in with a timing light too... oh and silly question... it has got a spark yeh? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
governorsam Posted December 3, 2013 Share Posted December 3, 2013 Number 4 should be rocking, number 1 should have no load, ie setting valve clearance. Make shure you are on compression stroke. Could be 180 out...... Used to working on British stuff......... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
77magnum13hundy Posted December 3, 2013 Share Posted December 3, 2013 yep your right no.4 is on the rock, got them mixed up Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fuel Posted December 3, 2013 Share Posted December 3, 2013 If you know where TDC is on the motor (screw driver down cylinder 1 plug hole) maybe take the rocker cover off to see what the valves are doing. number 3 cylinder should be on the rock between the exhaust valve coming up and the inlet valve going down. no 1 should be doing nothing cos thats the compression stroke and the spark should happen then. with the dizzy in the correct guessed place... and the dizzy cap off... the rotor on the dizzy and the no.1 plug spot on the cap should match up once the cap is put back in place.... this is only if you dont have any marks to go off. This is how i do it and not necessarily the correct way but yeh...if it aint in the right place move it a notch either back or forward and then try it... dial it in with a timing light too... oh and silly question... it has got a spark yeh? You could just look at the marks on the cam gear and crank pulley to instantly find TDC without having to pull plugs or rocker cover off. Fitting a Mitsi distributor is always tricky and you often get it one or two teeth out, you pretty much have to account for the fact that it will spin when trying to fit it so I always compensate by a couple teeth, just can't remember which direction now! always best to have the dizzy cap off and just make sure the rotor points to the number 1 spark plug lead position. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SportPac'89 Posted December 3, 2013 Author Share Posted December 3, 2013 Im lining the inside dizzy gear mark up with what i think is a timing mark on the shaft, but as for the stud and the slot im unsure. Pics would be really helpfull, i'll try get some up too. Yes all plugs getting spark. Just another thought, haveing a dry torque convertor couldn't effect starting? I know some lawn mowers need the blades installed for the momentum when starting.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fuel Posted December 3, 2013 Share Posted December 3, 2013 no if you are getting spark it's fine - it's just your spark is not timed properly. Clip the distributor cap onto the distributor and look where the number one spark plug lead is, take note of its position in relation to the distributor rotor, maybe even make a mark on the distributor housing. Now get the engine timed up to TDC so you need the crank pulley mark to line up to the 0deg marking on the timing belt cover, and then take off the upper timing belt cover to check the cam gear mark is lined up with its timing mark too. If it's not spin the motor 360deg until both crank and cam marks line up. Once that's done insert the distributor into the hole with your fingers holding the rotor roughly into the position of the number one plug lead on the cap - you will feel the rotor arm move over to where it shouldn't be as you are inserting it so make sure you pull the distributor out and move the rotor in the opposite direction a little bit to compensate and then push it back in - it will take a couple goes until you end up with the distributor fully inserted and the rotor arm is pointing in the right spot. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SportPac'89 Posted December 3, 2013 Author Share Posted December 3, 2013 Ok i will give this a go, cheers for the help guys, will update soon Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SportPac'89 Posted December 9, 2013 Author Share Posted December 9, 2013 Good news is it starts every time I turn the key, without aid of the accelerator, but it will only run for 5-10 seconds before it dies. If I press accelerator down it will rev then drop and almost die, then gain revs again then die. Quite a bit of smoke coming from carb/intake pipe after trying to rev, not when left to idle, or very little. Still bad timing? or do I need to adjust carb? ( I'm new to carbs, not sure which screws which) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ogre Posted December 9, 2013 Share Posted December 9, 2013 Sounds like a blocked jet, the mitsi carbs are arses for blocking jets. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SportPac'89 Posted December 9, 2013 Author Share Posted December 9, 2013 I changed two vaccuume hoses around, the one from the dizzy and one from the fuel pump. Engine now runs for around a minute before dyeing. I think its dyeing because alot of smoke is building up in the intake and i think its starving it of air. A bit of smoke and black splatter is coming out exhaust aswell Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ranter Posted December 9, 2013 Share Posted December 9, 2013 What vacuum hose does the fuel pump have? Its not the drain/vapour release is it? If it ran alright before you commenced work on it then leave the carb alone. Start it and rev the shit out of it (after you disconnect running fuel vapour into your intake) then drive it. If you have rebuilt it I assume you replaced rings they ain't gonna like idling they need some load to bed in. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SportPac'89 Posted December 9, 2013 Author Share Posted December 9, 2013 The gold ufo shaped thing underneath fuel pump. Is that not a vacuume port? Yes new rings, carb was adjusted when the motor had a blown head gasket (nobody could diagnose problem) so not sure if that will effect it or not. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SportPac'89 Posted December 10, 2013 Author Share Posted December 10, 2013 pulled hose off fuel pump, no idea what hose goes to it though. that fixed the cutting out problem. still quite smoky out exhaust when accelerating, not when idling. when I took it for a drive every now and again it would spray a bit of oil that seemed quite thin out around the oil cap and hose that goes from the rocker cover to intake pipe, I think it could be fuel in the oil. a bit of smoke pours out this hose too when I remove it under acceleration. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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